T-Series & Prewar Forum
Radiator Drain Tap Came Out... how to fix?
Posted by abartlett
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Topic Creator (OP)
May 6, 2013 12:06 PM
Joined 13 years ago
59 Posts
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I've started working on my car for the first time (always paid someone else before, but that's getting too expensive and not nearly as fun). Having a good time and interesting how many things that are NOT there that should be (fuel filters in the carbs, washers for the connections to the oil filter, etc.).
My current problem: I want to flush the radiator. So, I tried to open the radiator drain tap and it promptly came out. Plus side is, the radiator is now drained. ;-)
So, what do I need to do to get the tap reattached? Any resoures anyone can point me to?
Thanks.
My current problem: I want to flush the radiator. So, I tried to open the radiator drain tap and it promptly came out. Plus side is, the radiator is now drained. ;-)
So, what do I need to do to get the tap reattached? Any resoures anyone can point me to?
Thanks.
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Topic Creator (OP)
May 6, 2013 12:22 PM
Joined 13 years ago
59 Posts
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May 6, 2013 12:33 PM
Joined 18 years ago
2,352 Posts
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Remove the radiator from the car and take it to a commercial radiator shop to have it brazed back in. At the same time, have the radiator professionally cleaned and inspected. It's worth your time at this stage. I did the same things for the very same reasons just a year or so ago.
1974.5 MBG Tourer with Weber 32/36 mod and AC.
1957 MGA 1500 Coupe - Stock and original except paint
1953 MG TD - Original car with no mods
1974.5 MBG Tourer with Weber 32/36 mod and AC.
1957 MGA 1500 Coupe - Stock and original except paint
1953 MG TD - Original car with no mods
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Mr. Barry
Edward Wesson
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May 7, 2013 12:55 PM
Joined 16 years ago
2,374 Posts
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May 7, 2013 02:33 PM
Joined 18 years ago
2,352 Posts
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By the way, I don't recommend it, but I drove the car for a couple of weeks around town before I could get it fixed using one of those plunger-style bottle stoppers in the drain hole. Since the radiator isn't pressurized, it held just fine until I could get the radiator pulled and repaired.
1974.5 MBG Tourer with Weber 32/36 mod and AC.
1957 MGA 1500 Coupe - Stock and original except paint
1953 MG TD - Original car with no mods
1974.5 MBG Tourer with Weber 32/36 mod and AC.
1957 MGA 1500 Coupe - Stock and original except paint
1953 MG TD - Original car with no mods
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Topic Creator (OP)
May 7, 2013 03:49 PM
Joined 13 years ago
59 Posts
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So, why not solder and do this myself? What issues could I run in to? Seems to me the melting point of the solder is significantly above what the radiator or engine will hit. If the radiator or engine gets that hot, other things are going to go first. Right?
Short version: I've spent a decent amount on the cooling system already (about $2K a year and a half ago), and I'm not that thrilled about the prospect of blowing more cash on something I can do myself.
Short version: I've spent a decent amount on the cooling system already (about $2K a year and a half ago), and I'm not that thrilled about the prospect of blowing more cash on something I can do myself.
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May 7, 2013 04:06 PM
Top Contributor
Joined 18 years ago
16,356 Posts
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Solder will work if you have two overlaping surfaces and the desired method if the fitting came out and no metal was damaged. Sounds like you had more of a tear in the metal. Won't work so well if butting, then brazing would be the desired method..
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Mr. Barry
Edward Wesson
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May 7, 2013 06:21 PM
Joined 16 years ago
2,374 Posts
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The heat required to braze and repair, will spread...There is no practical way to contain (sink) it , on a surface that large....This will cause damage to delicate surfaces in the radiator core.....A radiator shop is equipped to patch the area, and repair the core if it gets damaged.
That repair will probably cost less than $100, including cleaning the core and testing for pressure....Radiator shops do repairs like this every day.
But look, it's your car and your money, so you have to do what you feel is right....Also remember, this is a hobby, and there is no such thing as a cheap hobby.
Edward
"It's not a car....It's a CAREER!"
That repair will probably cost less than $100, including cleaning the core and testing for pressure....Radiator shops do repairs like this every day.
But look, it's your car and your money, so you have to do what you feel is right....Also remember, this is a hobby, and there is no such thing as a cheap hobby.
Edward
"It's not a car....It's a CAREER!"
about 9 months and 2 weeks later...
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Feb 21, 2014 08:06 PM
Joined 12 years ago
9 Posts
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Feb 22, 2014 06:08 AM
Top Contributor
Joined 19 years ago
9,877 Posts
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kirks-auto
Robert Kirk (RIP)
Davenport, IA, USA
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Feb 22, 2014 06:36 AM
Joined 17 years ago
21,573 Posts
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Andrew apparently has invested heavily already in a radiator overhaul so I don't think suggestions to overhaul his radiator are of help. Solder, especially silver solder will work fine as long as you are able to heat the material sufficiently to flow the solder and not damage the intricate solder of the tank and cores. If you have literally ripped metal, I doubt the painstaking prep required to solder will be either easy or well done. Ergo brazing is what I would recommend. In any event the rad has to be removed. Try solder and if it works great. If not follow the sage advice being offered and let a pro fix the problem.
Regards,
Robert Kirk
kirkbrit@yahoo.com
E-mail PLEASE for quote/questions/orders
Business phone 563 323 1017
http://kirks-auto.com/
Moss distributor/UK importer
Beat or match most retail/delivered quote
Regards,
Robert Kirk
kirkbrit@yahoo.com
E-mail PLEASE for quote/questions/orders
Business phone 563 323 1017
http://kirks-auto.com/
Moss distributor/UK importer
Beat or match most retail/delivered quote
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Feb 22, 2014 07:03 AM
Top Contributor
Joined 19 years ago
9,877 Posts
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Andrew, Question, did the brass collar that the tap screws in just break loose or did the tank tear? A photo would be helpful if possible. If the collar broke loose, then it's an easy fix, if the tank tore open, then the tank should be removed from the core and brazed back together. My son has been in the radiator business for 30 years and he's redone many antique car radiators. I've seen both situations before. PJ
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Topic Creator (OP)
Feb 24, 2014 01:51 PM
Joined 13 years ago
59 Posts
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Hey everyone. Surprised this thread popped back up. I silver soldered the collar back in. It simply pulled out. I laid the radiator down and filled it with water to protect the "guts" of the radiator. I was then able to heat the collar in place enough to allow the solder to flow in.
Thanks.
Thanks.
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