MGB & GT Forum

Has anyone used an ultrasonic cleaner to clean engine parts - such as a crankshaft and pistons/rods - when rebuilding an engine? If so, what additives did you use? How did you keep the parts from flash rusting when done? Thank you.

Following with interest as I have been looking at these recently on Amazon. There has been some talk on here recently about cleaning solutions in ultrasonic cleaners. Any recommendations for the shade tree mechanic on affordable models and minimize size, including manufacturers to avoid?

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Tim W.
80 MGB LE "ZOM B"
73 MGB GT "Royale with Cheese"
"Modern cars - they all look like electric shavers." - Marv (Sin City)

Well you need a big ultrasonic cleaner to clean those types of parts. I got a 30L ultrasonic cleaner, and it does head parts, it will do 4 1275 rods, maybe 3 MGB rods at one time, it will do a couple of carbs disassembled. I see it as good final cleaner. I've said so many times here it sounds like a broken record, you don't clean engine parts in one swipe, there is no magic wand, whether it is a block, a head, a crank, a set of rods, engine parts are cleaned multiple time here to pass my standards. First order of business to get any grime and excessive sludge off the block before cleaning ever begins, meaning scrap blades, rags, whetever it takes. next I am going to get the pressure washer out and bast the living crap out of it, then when the block gets bored,and resurfaced it will get a cleaning in a typical machine shop aluminum safe caustic solution spray cabinet, then a final washing before painting, and assembly with the pressure washer and a light duty cleaning solution. So at minimum at least 3 cleanings. Ok if you have real nasty stuff in your ultrasonic cleaner you will have quite the mess to clean up and now you need to dispose of all that, there's one to ponder, don't try that in a HOA neighborhood, unless you want to be hung at sunrise, LOL. I have cleaned up 7 MGB crankshafts in the last two weeks. I have your typical type parts washer, with the pump removed and very strong water based industrial cleaner, I let these crank, also heads and such soak in that solution for a few days it does well beyond better than the typical machine shop spray cabinet. Of course everything that goes into a spray cabinet, a soak tank, an ultrasonic cleaner need a good water rinsing afterwards, blowing off with compressed air and then spray with WD40 afterwards, then blown again. You need to work fast to prevent flash rusting, but make no bones about every popular cleaning method for all of this includes water.

OK so you want an ultrasonic cleaner big enough to do a MGB block, you probably need to spend about 4000-5000, grand to get one big enough and then it will most likely require 240V power, then you need to get rid 100s of gallons water on a regular basis, even I can't justify that in my work. Pay close attention inner tank dimensions they are not a big as you think they are based on the liter size. You would probably need something that holds 20+ gallons of water.to a block. OH and any good unit will included a heating element, this bigger the tank the more ower you will need to run

OK, what solution to use? This is maybe the biggest scam in this market going on with ultrasonic cleaner that you need some sort of special cleaning solution, you don't I use a few ounces of dawn dishwasher fluid in my tank to lightly clean steel, cast iron or aluminum, then maybe 4-6 ounces of a more serious water based cleaner like purple power to do dirty steel and cast iron. If you use the same solution on cleaning aluminum as you do steel and cast iron you will reget it and it will stain the aluminum to a horrible dark grey and then you have to figure out to undo that, which normally requires some sort of media cleaning. The deal with the ultrasonic cleaner is that is the vibrations that do the bulk of the cleaning and not the solution, so you don't need much solution, which s good as that will save your equipment and make it last longer. Cleaning up the tank and disposal of the water are your two hurdles in all of this. A common UC trick is when doing small part put them in something like a sealed mason jar and then a cleaning solution in that, and put that into the tank with straight water, it will keep your tank clean, and that good deal. I clean valve retainer and keepers in a mason jar with unleaded gas, which works well

So for me it is a combination of pressure washing, soak tank with a very strong water based chemical, and then my ultrasonic cleaner to do smaller stuff.

Also when working with a stronger cleaning solution, get a pair of chemical gloves if you are fond of your first two layers of skin, LOL Also, you will need to buy chemicals in larger quantities from a real chemical company, not the local parts house. I buy my soak tank chemicals 10 gallons at a time. The stuff I get from my buddy at the local chemical company, he does not even display that on the shelves, as an unassuming person could get in trouble with it, you ask for it and gets it for you, and it comes with a sermon from him, LOL. People that do heavy cleaning jobs use this stuff, not for the casual person not used to using strong chemicals. One needs to take care when using stuff like this..

Have I scared you yet? LOL . All jokes aside this is more than a purchase, this is commitment, and lots of chores and hurdles come with it, and where you live plays directly into this, let your neighbor know you are using this sort of stuff and the eco police will show up at your door.

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Hap Waldrop
Acme Speed Shop
864-370-3000
Website: www.acmespeedshop.com
hapwaldrop@acmespeedshop.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2023-06-02 09:40 PM by Speedracer.

Tim, this is what I bought do smaller items with and I have been really pleased with it, I've been using it now for about 3 years and it gets used often, so far, so good.

https://www.vevor.com/ultrasonic-cleaner-c_11064/30l-ultrasonic-cleaner-stainless-steel-industry-heated-heater-w-timer-p_010569648062?adp=gmc&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_id=20164896470&utm_term=&gclid=CjwKCAjwpuajBhBpEiwA_ZtfhWxhAnYeLVy9M04ESxBPTNnqO7NPgzvpHc3edldjJpFkpXHbXhbTHBoCclUQAvD_BwE

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Hap Waldrop
Acme Speed Shop
864-370-3000
Website: www.acmespeedshop.com
hapwaldrop@acmespeedshop.com

Well spoken HAP, Thank you for sharing your infinite experience and wisdom with us minions. lol! . I knew that it would require a large tank for such an endeavor but never thought about performing such a faet on any engine parts. I was always held prisoner the sops hot tanking for such tasks...... oh well....

Jim
GERONIMO

I used to cut the lid out of a 55 gallon barrel, set it up on bricks, fill it with enough water to cover the block, build a fire under it and cook the crap out of it. Pull it out, blow air through all the holes, throw it back in the barrel, drink a few beers, rinse and repeat. Then lots of WD40. Boiling water will remove a lot of crud. Did this with a few small block Chevys.

Thanks, Hap! My requirements are smaller than what Greg is looking to do. Vevor look like good units.

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Tim W.
80 MGB LE "ZOM B"
73 MGB GT "Royale with Cheese"
"Modern cars - they all look like electric shavers." - Marv (Sin City)

I have a Vevor 30L and can fit most small engine parts. I think I can fit an MGB crank in it too. Can’t speak highly enough of the machine - it is awesome.

I clean small car parts in an ultrasonic cleaner. I put the parts in a ziplock bag, together with some dishwash solution and a bit of water. Then fill the entire ultrasonic cleaner with hot water (40~50 Celsius) and put the ziplock bags in it. The water in the ziplock bag ensures that the bag will not float on top of the hot water, but will be submerged. Then I let the cleaner do its job. Disclaimer: I have not done an engine rebuild.