MGB & GT Forum

This may be a stupid question, but I haven't seen it addressed anywhere, so I am going to ask before I make a mistake.

I removed the old bushings from my rear leaf springs. On the front of the spring, the old bushing has a metal sleeve around the rubber bushing and the inner steel tube. The SuperPro bushings I am installing do not come with a metal outer sleeve. Do I just insert the new bushing into the eye on the spring without the metal sleeve? Or... do I remove the rubber bushing from the old sleeve and reuse the sleeve to install the new SuperPro poly bushing?

I *think* that I just install the new bushing directly into the spring eye (without a sleeve), but since this is my first go round with this job, I figured I'd better get a second opinion. Measure twice, cut once, so to speak...

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I don't know. It's always smoked like that/made that sound/done that.

I'll be watching this thread. I will say I am in the middle of doing the rear suspension, and on the one side that I am done I just installed the poly bushings, they were a tight fit, so I doubt that the metal sleeve would be needed.

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**1971 MGB Chrome Bumper, OD** - Its a project at the moment.

No bushing required... I think you will find it will not fit anyway. Just put some of the lube that is provided on the original bolt, NOT on the part of the bushing that engages in the spring. Bushing should ride around the bolt, not inside the spring.

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Those who confuse Burro and Burrow don't know their @ss from a hole in the ground...

Wouldn't that make the bushing squeak?

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I don't know. It's always smoked like that/made that sound/done that.

I typed that wrong... Sorry!!! No metal sleeve required. Lubricate as outlined above.... Lube mount bolt, not spring. Spring to bushing stays dry. Bushing rotates around mount bolt.

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Those who confuse Burro and Burrow don't know their @ss from a hole in the ground...



Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 2018-01-14 07:07 PM by tahoe36c.

LOL. I figured as much. It was the part about no grease on the outside of the poly bushing that I wondered about. Everyone else seems to smear grease (or whatever it is that SuperPro provides) all over the inside and outside of the bushing.

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I don't know. It's always smoked like that/made that sound/done that.

No grease between bushing and spring. The bushing should fit very tight inside the spring.

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Those who confuse Burro and Burrow don't know their @ss from a hole in the ground...

OK. I'll try it that way tomorrow morning once the springs warm up.

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I don't know. It's always smoked like that/made that sound/done that.

ICR as I did my Superpro some 5 years ago - my kit came with detailed instructions on where to apply their "grease"; I'd follow their instructions as not all poly bushes are the same on installation.

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Mk1: CKD 11/66 first registered 8/5/67; owned since 3/77. 18GB +40 balanced. Peter Burgess BVFR head. Piper 285. 123. FidanzaFW. 4synch c/r box. Superpro. Nut and bolt rebuild 2010 - 2015. Tartan Red.

GT: 12/78. VW Golf guards, flush fit front and rear valances, frenched indicators, Mk1 rear lights - LED lights. 'Worked' Rover V8, Monsoon ECU for EFI. Commodore VSV8 GM4L60E, Lokar tiptronic shifter & Quick4 controller. Vintage Air A/C. FC IFS. CCE 4 link rear. Salisbury with Quaife. Jaguar Storm.

I checked my SuperPro box again. The only thing that came with the bagged parts was a parts manifest. No instructions. They have an online video showing how to install the "cotton reel" style bushing (like the MGB leaf spring one), but it was in a control arm. It was very well greased and didn't use a metal sleeve, but... control arm and not an MG one at that.

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I don't know. It's always smoked like that/made that sound/done that.

I just purchased a complete Super Pro kit from Moss and the only paperwork was the invoice and quality check list. Each package has a generic instruction on the rear of the package but no other information . So , if you have older detailed instructions please post them to the form. Thanks, Al

I have a set of new Super pro bushings minus the eye bushings cheap if anyone needs spares. Half price. PM me.

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"Only those who have patience to do simple things perfectly ever acquire the skill to do difficult things easily"
James J. Corbett

I don't have my instructions - they're long gone - but
this should help but it's probably the same video mentioned - yes it's not into a spring but it's how to fit a Superpro cotton reel bush.

It occurs to me that the OP (#1) may be referring to the outer metal that's on the OEM type bush. Apart from that not being separable from the bush the answer's no.The OEM is a metalastic bush ie rubber and metal bonded. You're pressing the Superpro bush into the eye of the spring.

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Mk1: CKD 11/66 first registered 8/5/67; owned since 3/77. 18GB +40 balanced. Peter Burgess BVFR head. Piper 285. 123. FidanzaFW. 4synch c/r box. Superpro. Nut and bolt rebuild 2010 - 2015. Tartan Red.

GT: 12/78. VW Golf guards, flush fit front and rear valances, frenched indicators, Mk1 rear lights - LED lights. 'Worked' Rover V8, Monsoon ECU for EFI. Commodore VSV8 GM4L60E, Lokar tiptronic shifter & Quick4 controller. Vintage Air A/C. FC IFS. CCE 4 link rear. Salisbury with Quaife. Jaguar Storm.



Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 2018-01-18 06:10 AM by MGB567.

Barrie- You are correct. That is what I was referring to. I did not realize that the outer metal was not separable from the old bush. And yes, that is the video I was referring to. Given that different cars have wildly different geometry, I figured I should take it as a good general guide, rather than a specific one.

That said, I installed the new bushings last night and then reassembled the driver rear suspension. Of note, its really difficult to install a giant poly bushing into a 20 pound leaf spring eye using an unsecured vise or clamp. I ended up taking the whole affair into my house where I could hand clamp the leaf spring to a table so I could maintain the correct angle to install the leaf spring bushing. And in the end, I used huge heaping amounts of the grease that SuperPro provides with the bushings. Inside and out.

The shackle bolt bushings were also a bit of a pain, but a wide jaw pliers fixed that.

Now... the only thing left is to figure out how to avoid fully torqueing all the nuts until "the car is at ride height". I suppose the answer is to place a jack under the spring and jack it up and then torque the nuts, but I keep picturing trying to torque everything with the wheel on and sitting on the ground. Its hard enough to get in there with the wheel off and the car raised!

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I don't know. It's always smoked like that/made that sound/done that.

I went with the prothane brand, and they didn't need to be pressed in. I did have a bit of a fight on the shackle bushings, but that was due to the age of the car, not the bushings.

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**1971 MGB Chrome Bumper, OD** - Its a project at the moment.