MGB & GT Forum

Just picked up one if these welding units.

https://m.canadiantire.ca/#/products/productDetail/0588040P/false/false/false?storeClearance=false&selectedSku=0588040

24-guage up to 5/16ths metal
20% @ 90Amps
120V

Can anyone tell me if this is sufficient for body and frame work on an MGB (Replacing sills etc.)?

Thanks,
Tim

I have one of these too, I'll tell you it sure can weld ! I haven't tried it with gas which would give the best results but I'd say you'd be fine welding anything other than frame material but results depend a lot on skill of course.

added: saw on some forms that 023-025 wire for up to 1/8" works better, 030 for thinner



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2016-06-02 10:19 PM by nzimmers.

More than adequate. You could weld 2 cars together with that. Practice on some scrap to find the setting you're comfortable with before hitting the car. It's easy to burn a bigger hole in bodywork.
If you got the gas setup the welds will be cleaner and less to grind down. Just need clean steel. I used mainly Flux core due to wind in my area.

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James J
Deep in the heart of Texas
73 MKIII
http://jims73mgb.blogspot.com/

I used one for 20 years.
Having some problems with it. I am going to buy a new one instead of having the old one repaired.

yep, got the same one. Works great.

Couldn't display the page, but no big deal. Have the same one on gas. I use CO2 with good results. CO2/Argon mix would be better but didn't think the cost difference justified it for me. I did replace the electrical supply breaker of 20A with one of 25A. This is fine if you're using #12 supply wire and not trying to run the unit continuously. It's a fine machine, but not a shop production unit (unless you're working with thin metal all the time). I didn't pop a breaker with the 20A, but didn't want to chance it. It's a long walk to reset.

Depends. Should be just fine for welding on the car, but I wouldn't recommend it if you're planning to fabricate an aircraft carrier or a bridge!

Just my wierd sense of humour. tim

Hi Neal (and everyone else).

Thanks to all for replies and votes of confidence on this machine. I thought I'd ask before I cracked it open.

By the way, this is the link that works. The original one I posted was only for mobile browsers.

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/lincoln-electric-mig-pak-140-wire-feed-welder-0588040p.html#.V1F28JMrLMU

It was on sale here in Canada for CAD$539 down from $689 (that's about US$411 down from $525). Seems like a nice deal.

Neal, you mentioned "anything other than frame work". I'm intending to be able to weld in new rear spring mounts using repair sections from Victoria British. Are you suggesting that this MIG 140 might not be up to the task with repair pieces like that?

Many thanks,
Tim

You made a good choice, I prefer Lincoln over Miller, or any other brand for that matter. I have a earlier version of that same welder, bought it 26 years ago, only thing I ever replaced is the liner and trigger gun with a Tweaco (damn good liner and trigger gun I might add too) I use this welder to built 5 race cars with it, welded literally thousands of small job with it, been using it for last three day to restore a cool open car hauler, welding 3/16"steel with it. These things are workhorses, you did good, they do on good on steel up to 3/16" thickness with a single pass, and delicate enough to weld on thin sheet metal. This welder is all you will ever need to weld anything on a car.

The biggest tip I can give you is get the bare metal and clean with a mig, dirty metal equal crappy welds, clean metal equal good strong welds. Have fun.

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Hap Waldrop
Acme Speed Shop
864-370-3000
Website: www.acmespeedshop.com
hapwaldrop@acmespeedshop.com

Tim,
Hap nailed it best.
A couple of things to add get a good auto-darkening helmet and if you go with gas opt for a larger cylinder. Having to refill all the time gets old quick.

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Brian.
79 mgb
Rebuilt, fast road cam
Schlemmerized Dist.
dgv converted to synchronous operation
early blue label o/d
chrome bumper conversion
bpmichaud

Thanks to all for their input. I very much appreciate it.

It was a tough call between the Mastercraft 80A unit reduced by $400 and the Lincoln Electric, but the Mastercraft unit was reported as basically a Campbell-Hausfield low-end look-alike, with cheap tubing and subject to frequent wire jambs. Not worth the aggravation.

Tim

Tim, my question now is what kind of receptical do you have in your garage?
Wire size, amperage of breaker, and length of run.
I have mine on a 20 amp dedicated circuit with a 20 amp breaker. I always regretted not running larger wire.

Yup, I have the 100 and it was not enough heat to do aluminum bar. The 140 is better.

According to the local gas supplier, Lincoln and Miller are about the same with the same argument between Chevy and Ford trucks. He advised to look for one still made in the US, rather than outsourced to China as the ones in the big-box stores likely are.
I had a heck of a time doing really good welds until I gave up and added the gas. It is a huge difference over flux wire. Maybe a pro could do better, but for me, go gas. I recently upgraded to a new big screen auto helmet. Again, compared to my old one, what a difference.

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Cogito ergo sum periculoso

Thanks, tvrgeek for your notes on gas. I see others recommending I invest in a larger tank than just a cylinder. Do you have experience using CO2 instead of Argon (to save money)?

Also, what "big screen" helmet did you purchase (and from where)? I picked up this Lincoln Electric auto-darkening for US$75 (on sale) but wondered if there is something better with more visibility?

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/tools-hardware/welding-soldering/welding-accessories/helmets-accessories/lincoln-electric-darkfire-autodarkening-welding-helmet-shades-9-0580037p.0580037.html#.V1G9sZMrLMU

Flame themed welding helmet and accessories
Goes from light to dark (shade 9-13) in 1/25,000 of a second - automatically
Lens opening: 1.73" x 3.82"
Solar powered - no need for batteries
Adjustable sensitivity and delay
Two arc sensors to control darkness
Lightweight design at only 15.5 oz.
Meets CSA Z94.3 and ANSI Z87.1-2003 certifications

I have successfully been using a 120v Lincoln 125 Plus 90a wirefeed welder for 15 years. Lincoln .023" wire (I don't care for the HF wire), Argon/CO2 cover gas, 30a breaker. The first home project was the rolling welding bench with a 5/16" top surface.

There are some tricks to increase or decrease weld penetration besides adjusting the machine:
- Weld downhill to decrease penetration, uphill to increase penetration.
- Straight CO2 to increase penetration, straight argon to limit penetration.
- There are various argon/CO2 mixtures available. On sheet metal I use a 90% argon/10% CO2 mixture to limit burn thru.
- Longer wire stick-out to limit penetration, shorter wire stick-out to increase penetration.
- Increased cover gas flow to limit penetration.
- Chilled copper backup bar to limit penetration.
- The longer the extension cord (10ga) the less penetration, yes my 30' extension cord will get warm when welding wide open.
- Flame base metal preheat to increase penetration.
- Multiple pass Vee-groove welds with preheat on thicker materials to increase penetration.

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Be safe out there.
Kenny