MGB & GT Forum
LED Compatible Hazard Flasher
This is in regards to my 69 GT. So, I had the same problem as several who chimed in a couple weeks ago about having only partial function of LED replacement lamps using the older style electronic flasher units. Taking advice from those members, I purchased 2 of the newer style (lower current sensing) relays for the turn signal and hazard flashers. The turn signal flasher works fine for all 4 corners. That unit needed a separate ground wire connection to the "E" terminal. Simple enough. The hazard flasher is wired different. There is no ground connection on the original flasher wiring so I'm at a loss as to how to wire this relay in.
The photos attached are the new relay, the original (or what was currently installed) and the wiring diagram for a 69.
Any suggestions appreciated.
The photos attached are the new relay, the original (or what was currently installed) and the wiring diagram for a 69.
Any suggestions appreciated.
Attachments:
20180529_181526.jpg 24.3 KB
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May 29, 2018 09:16 PM
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May 30, 2018 02:02 AM
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May 30, 2018 01:10 PM
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Well it's time then to change isn't it? Use the Advance diarams of a later year with two pin connections on the flasher and buy and install the 3 pin variant with the thiird pin on earth/mass.
If it is not straightforward now, make it for the future I would say. "KISS is keep it simple stupid", assure you are not the stupid one here on MGE
If it is not straightforward now, make it for the future I would say. "KISS is keep it simple stupid", assure you are not the stupid one here on MGE
In reply to # 3746148 by stiffarm67
Don,
The OE hazard flasher on my 69 has 3 connections with no ground. The 3 pin LED compatible replacement flasher has 3 pins one of which needs to be grounded. This presents me with 4 connections needed but only 3 terminals available. There is nothing straightforward here which is why I asked the question. Wray in post #3 actually read and understood my post and I'll be trying his suggestion.
Joe
The OE hazard flasher on my 69 has 3 connections with no ground. The 3 pin LED compatible replacement flasher has 3 pins one of which needs to be grounded. This presents me with 4 connections needed but only 3 terminals available. There is nothing straightforward here which is why I asked the question. Wray in post #3 actually read and understood my post and I'll be trying his suggestion.
Joe
In reply to # 3745917 by Donthuis
I noted the classiccarleds company puts stickers on their LED compatible flashers, since people seem to connect the B battery and L light feed the wrong way around, which of course ruins the unit.
I fail to see what is so complicated about connecting an E post or spade to an earth or mass connection for a threewire configuration. If this connecting of 3 spades is already too complicated to understand, better let somebody else do it for you
I fail to see what is so complicated about connecting an E post or spade to an earth or mass connection for a threewire configuration. If this connecting of 3 spades is already too complicated to understand, better let somebody else do it for you
Wow Don. That's twice you have insulted my intelligence. We're done here.
In reply to # 3746172 by Donthuis
Well it's time then to change isn't it? Use the Advance diarams of a later year with two pin connections on the flasher and buy and install the 3 pin variant with the thiird pin on earth/mass.
If it is not straightforward now, make it for the future I would say. "KISS is keep it simple stupid", assure you are not the stupid one here on MGE
If it is not straightforward now, make it for the future I would say. "KISS is keep it simple stupid", assure you are not the stupid one here on MGE
In reply to # 3746148 by stiffarm67
Don,
The OE hazard flasher on my 69 has 3 connections with no ground. The 3 pin LED compatible replacement flasher has 3 pins one of which needs to be grounded. This presents me with 4 connections needed but only 3 terminals available. There is nothing straightforward here which is why I asked the question. Wray in post #3 actually read and understood my post and I'll be trying his suggestion.
Joe
The OE hazard flasher on my 69 has 3 connections with no ground. The 3 pin LED compatible replacement flasher has 3 pins one of which needs to be grounded. This presents me with 4 connections needed but only 3 terminals available. There is nothing straightforward here which is why I asked the question. Wray in post #3 actually read and understood my post and I'll be trying his suggestion.
Joe
In reply to # 3745917 by Donthuis
I noted the classiccarleds company puts stickers on their LED compatible flashers, since people seem to connect the B battery and L light feed the wrong way around, which of course ruins the unit.
I fail to see what is so complicated about connecting an E post or spade to an earth or mass connection for a threewire configuration. If this connecting of 3 spades is already too complicated to understand, better let somebody else do it for you
I fail to see what is so complicated about connecting an E post or spade to an earth or mass connection for a threewire configuration. If this connecting of 3 spades is already too complicated to understand, better let somebody else do it for you
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May 30, 2018 03:04 PM
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Joined 19 years ago
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Joe,
Looking at your wiring diagram, the "P" is for the hazard indicator light on the dashboard. This function got moved to the hazard switch in later models, I am assuming so that they can use similar relays for turn signal and hazard.
In your case, connect your new relay as follows:
"BI+" to the brown wire (was B on the original relay)
"L" to the light green/brown wire (was L on the original relay) and to the light green/purple (which was P on the original relay). You could use a piggyback terminal like the one below if you do not want to splice/solder the wires.
"-IE" to a ground point (earth). I usually run a black wire with a terminal to the screw which holds the relay in place.
Pretty much what Wray suggested in his reply above.
My 1958 MGA is not a car, it's a CAREER..!! ...
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-05-30 03:10 PM by Ahmed.
Looking at your wiring diagram, the "P" is for the hazard indicator light on the dashboard. This function got moved to the hazard switch in later models, I am assuming so that they can use similar relays for turn signal and hazard.
In your case, connect your new relay as follows:
"BI+" to the brown wire (was B on the original relay)
"L" to the light green/brown wire (was L on the original relay) and to the light green/purple (which was P on the original relay). You could use a piggyback terminal like the one below if you do not want to splice/solder the wires.
"-IE" to a ground point (earth). I usually run a black wire with a terminal to the screw which holds the relay in place.
Pretty much what Wray suggested in his reply above.
My 1958 MGA is not a car, it's a CAREER..!! ...
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-05-30 03:10 PM by Ahmed.
Ahmed,
Yep. Makes sense and same thoughts as Wray. Thanks much.
Yep. Makes sense and same thoughts as Wray. Thanks much.
In reply to # 3746224 by Ahmed
Joe,
Looking at your wiring diagram, the "P" is for the hazard indicator light on the dashboard. This function got moved to the hazard switch in later models, I am assuming so that they can use similar relays for turn signal and hazard.
In your case, connect your new relay as follows:
"BI+" to the brown wire (was B on the original relay)
"L" to the light green/brown wire (was L on the original relay) and to the light green/purple (which was P on the original relay). You could use a piggyback terminal like the one below if you do not want to splice/solder the wires.
"-IE" to a ground point (earth). I usually run a black wire with a terminal to the screw which holds the relay in place.
Pretty much what Wray suggested in his reply above.
Looking at your wiring diagram, the "P" is for the hazard indicator light on the dashboard. This function got moved to the hazard switch in later models, I am assuming so that they can use similar relays for turn signal and hazard.
In your case, connect your new relay as follows:
"BI+" to the brown wire (was B on the original relay)
"L" to the light green/brown wire (was L on the original relay) and to the light green/purple (which was P on the original relay). You could use a piggyback terminal like the one below if you do not want to splice/solder the wires.
"-IE" to a ground point (earth). I usually run a black wire with a terminal to the screw which holds the relay in place.
Pretty much what Wray suggested in his reply above.
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