MGB & GT Forum
Getting copper washers to not leak
Posted by MGsfor3Generations
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MGsfor3Generations
Grant MacKay
Concord, NC, USA
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Topic Creator (OP)
Jan 8, 2012 07:38 PM
Joined 18 years ago
425 Posts
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I continue to get frustrated with making copper washers make working seals.... clutch lines, brake lines, oil lines... it seems like whenever a copper washer is involved, I have about a 25% rate of making a leakproof seal. Is there any guidance to how tightly to tighten these washers? I am always using new washers, and as far as I know, they are always the right size, as I order them from the usual suppliers.....
Any suggestions are appreciated.
Any suggestions are appreciated.
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Otis, OR, USA
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1965 MG MGB V6 Conversion "Carmine"
1973 MG MGB GT "Eliza - FIRST PLACE - MG2013" 1984 Chevrolet Corvette "The Green Weenie" 1994 Chevrolet S10 "Lil Red" |
Jan 8, 2012 07:48 PM
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Joined 15 years ago
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That's a pretty dismal rate of working washers. I don't know that there is any particular torque settings suggested for those things.
I think it's just tighten it good, and pray. Interesting question though. Normally this comes from someone who re-uses the washers.
(Although I have had some luck with annealing them and re-using them)
Wayne Sanders
Rose Lodge, OR
(TD 4288)
"I don't care to belong to any club that accepts people like me"-joined Willamette Valley Club in 2011
79/65 MGB - Carmine- V-6 - T-5
This car is now very nearly completely done. Sure to find something else, but not now.........And 12 years later, I'm starting to fix things that were new when we built the car. It's pretty well de-bugged!
I think it's just tighten it good, and pray. Interesting question though. Normally this comes from someone who re-uses the washers.
(Although I have had some luck with annealing them and re-using them)
Wayne Sanders
Rose Lodge, OR
(TD 4288)
"I don't care to belong to any club that accepts people like me"-joined Willamette Valley Club in 2011
79/65 MGB - Carmine- V-6 - T-5
This car is now very nearly completely done. Sure to find something else, but not now.........And 12 years later, I'm starting to fix things that were new when we built the car. It's pretty well de-bugged!
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Jan 8, 2012 07:49 PM
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Joined 15 years ago
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My experience is different than yours. Whenever I've used new, correctly sized copper washers, the seal has been effective. Not sure what's happening with your low success rate, but I would be frustrated also.
“Ideological certainty easily degenerates into an insistence upon ignorance". Daniel Patrick Moynihan
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Anyone who feels compelled to respond in kind to any perceived slight is often suffering from narcissism.
“Ideological certainty easily degenerates into an insistence upon ignorance". Daniel Patrick Moynihan
In any debate, the side which strays from civil discussion is usually the side that lacks confidence in its debate position or in the merit of their arguments. Making personal attacks on the opponents instead of staying on the subject is also a sign of weakness.
Anyone who feels compelled to respond in kind to any perceived slight is often suffering from narcissism.
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Jan 8, 2012 07:55 PM
Joined 20 years ago
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Jan 8, 2012 08:13 PM
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In reply to # 1949792 by mac townsend
anneal them.
Heat them red hot (propane works) then drop in a cup of water.
they get hardened after awhile. this softens them so they will conform better.
Heat them red hot (propane works) then drop in a cup of water.
they get hardened after awhile. this softens them so they will conform better.
What he said, but I skip the water bit and air cool.
I prefer to use the old ones cause I know they was not made of china. I also find that a lot of the bits and bobs we buy for these cars are of a generic "one size fits all" specification.
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Jan 8, 2012 08:27 PM
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In reply to # 1949814 by NOHOME
What he said, but I skip the water bit and air cool.
What he said, but I skip the water bit and air cool.
Yep, quenching them makes them hard again...let them air-cool.
I usually string about 5 of them together along a length of safety wire to hold them while I get them cherry red. Once they've cooled, wire-brush the layer of oxidation that will be covering them, and you will have your best possible chance of making a successful seal.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2012-01-08 08:29 PM by Benny.
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ssduane
Duane Paulsen
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Jan 8, 2012 10:18 PM
Joined 16 years ago
1,038 Posts
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step 1.
buy one of these.
http://www.harborfreight.com/micro-torch-42099.html
step 2.
anneal them, hang them on a wire or whatever, and SLOWLY heat them in a circular patern till they glow red, as soon as they glow, stop, and either quench them or let them air cool. Doesn't really matter as long as you use them. I prefer the air cool method.
Also, they should fit tight, the inner circumferance should tightly fit the shoulder of the banjo fitting they are being used on, and the outer circumferance should be about the same size as the bolt head.
current changes-
Delco 63 amp alternator, Energy/Prothane suspension bushings, front to rear, JVC deck with IPOD controls, new Moss radiator, ADCO front 7/8" sway bar, OD black label trans, chrome bumper conversion, tan leather interior, AA wire block.
future mods-VTO 8 spoke 15x6 wheels (on order)
Aquired parts-
snug top
buy one of these.
http://www.harborfreight.com/micro-torch-42099.html
step 2.
anneal them, hang them on a wire or whatever, and SLOWLY heat them in a circular patern till they glow red, as soon as they glow, stop, and either quench them or let them air cool. Doesn't really matter as long as you use them. I prefer the air cool method.
Also, they should fit tight, the inner circumferance should tightly fit the shoulder of the banjo fitting they are being used on, and the outer circumferance should be about the same size as the bolt head.
current changes-
Delco 63 amp alternator, Energy/Prothane suspension bushings, front to rear, JVC deck with IPOD controls, new Moss radiator, ADCO front 7/8" sway bar, OD black label trans, chrome bumper conversion, tan leather interior, AA wire block.
future mods-VTO 8 spoke 15x6 wheels (on order)
Aquired parts-
snug top
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Jan 8, 2012 10:29 PM
Joined 19 years ago
4,233 Posts
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Water quenching has no effect on hardening copper after it has been annealed to a just glowing orange/red color. All that water quenching does is to lessen the time before it can be safely handled. It is best to allow the pieces to air cool, they are small and will not really take that long to settle back to room temp. Also, there is no need to hold the red color any longer than necessary, depending upon the alloy of copper, it could make the piece slightly brittle by doing so.
Jim B.
Jim B.
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Jan 9, 2012 12:12 PM
Joined 15 years ago
515 Posts
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2 cents
Many years ago I seem to remeber being taught that heating iron relaxes the crystaline structure of the metal, and that quenching it at certain temps and rapidity created a different kind og strucutre and hardness. Some times we quenched in oil, some times in water, etc.
I recall being told that quenching has a different effect on nonferrous metals - that heating it can make it more brittle and that only after it air cools or is quenched will it be soft and suitsable for working.
So, cool with a quench or air, at your pleasure, but don't work a hot piece of copper or brass or it will probably break. Heat it up red and cool it one way or another before you work it. If you heat up a washer, the copper should relax so it will compress some whan you tighten it down.
Jim
Many years ago I seem to remeber being taught that heating iron relaxes the crystaline structure of the metal, and that quenching it at certain temps and rapidity created a different kind og strucutre and hardness. Some times we quenched in oil, some times in water, etc.
I recall being told that quenching has a different effect on nonferrous metals - that heating it can make it more brittle and that only after it air cools or is quenched will it be soft and suitsable for working.
So, cool with a quench or air, at your pleasure, but don't work a hot piece of copper or brass or it will probably break. Heat it up red and cool it one way or another before you work it. If you heat up a washer, the copper should relax so it will compress some whan you tighten it down.
Jim
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Jan 9, 2012 05:02 PM
Top Contributor
Joined 17 years ago
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Make sure the mating surfaces that the washers are supposed to seal are flat and smooth. You can lap then with wet and dry paper on a flat surface. Also make sure the copper washers are flat and smooth. +1 on the anneal.
Jim
"If you want me to agree with you then we would both be wrong"
'66 MGB widened 11" with supercharged LT1 Chevy and 6 speed, C4 Corvette suspension
Pictures here Part 1 http://forum.britishv8.org/read.php?13,7581
Continued in Part 2 http://forum.britishv8.org/read.php?13,22422
Continued in Part 3 http://forum.britishv8.org/read.php?13,33108
Continued in Part 4 http://forum.britishv8.org/read.php?13,40751
Continued in Part 5 http://forum.britishv8.org/read.php?13,48698,48698#msg-48698
Continued in Part 6 http://forum.britishv8.org/read.php?13,61672
Jim
"If you want me to agree with you then we would both be wrong"
'66 MGB widened 11" with supercharged LT1 Chevy and 6 speed, C4 Corvette suspension
Pictures here Part 1 http://forum.britishv8.org/read.php?13,7581
Continued in Part 2 http://forum.britishv8.org/read.php?13,22422
Continued in Part 3 http://forum.britishv8.org/read.php?13,33108
Continued in Part 4 http://forum.britishv8.org/read.php?13,40751
Continued in Part 5 http://forum.britishv8.org/read.php?13,48698,48698#msg-48698
Continued in Part 6 http://forum.britishv8.org/read.php?13,61672
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kenandsupa
Ken Nashif
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Jan 9, 2012 11:07 PM
Joined 17 years ago
123 Posts
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Yes, annealing is the 2nd best method. Replacing with new is the best. After annealing ( as described above) dressing the surfaces usually isn't required, as the copper is once again soft and should conform to the surfaces with a good tightening. After the washer is annealed there is usually some black carbon residue on the washer. This can be easily removed ith either dressing the washer on a flat surface with fine emory cloth or if there is some deformation, cleaning it up on a file. Make sure that the surfaces you are trying to seal are clean and burr free also.
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Georgetown, TX, USA
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Jan 10, 2012 02:32 PM
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Jan 10, 2012 03:49 PM
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Jan 10, 2012 03:55 PM
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Joined 14 years ago
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Unless new copper washers come with a piece of kit I have always used the old ones and can't ever remember one leaking on me, I have a collection of various old used one which I dip into when necessary, are you naturally unlucky ?
I'm not one for over tightening, maybe that's a clue
I'm not one for over tightening, maybe that's a clue

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Jan 10, 2012 06:45 PM
Joined 19 years ago
147 Posts
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In reply to # 1949792 by mac townsend
anneal them.
Heat them red hot (propane works) then drop in a cup of water.
they get hardened after awhile. this softens them so they will conform better.
Heat them red hot (propane works) then drop in a cup of water.
they get hardened after awhile. this softens them so they will conform better.
x2 I do the same to soften the copper. My father teach me this trick 40 years ago.
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