MGB & GT Forum
Disabling Choke on ZS carb
Posted by dannyclarke58
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Topic Creator (OP)
Apr 17, 2026 07:06 PM
Joined 7 months ago
197 Posts
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I converted the water choke on my Zenith Stromberg carb to manual but I'm still having issues with setting the idle on the carb and I believe the choke is part of the problem.
To disable the choke entirely, I should be able to just lock the mechanism in a completely open position right? I
f the cam isn't moving and the high idle pin is not being engaged then only the low idle adjustment screw would need to be adjusted, right?
Am I over simplifying this?
To disable the choke entirely, I should be able to just lock the mechanism in a completely open position right? I
f the cam isn't moving and the high idle pin is not being engaged then only the low idle adjustment screw would need to be adjusted, right?
Am I over simplifying this?
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Apr 18, 2026 07:13 AM
Top Contributor
Joined 9 years ago
822 Posts
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Apr 18, 2026 10:43 AM
Top Contributor
Joined 13 years ago
4,332 Posts
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"To disable the choke entirely, I should be able to just lock the mechanism in a completely open position right? I
f the cam isn't moving and the high idle pin is not being engaged then only the low idle adjustment screw would need to be adjusted, right?"
Yes.
But are your symptoms a high idle that you can't get down, or is the choke mechanism still being held open, either by misadjustment or mechanically hanging up?
Reason I'm asking is that I have fought many a high idle condition not only the later z/s carbs, but the h series as well, only to realize that I had a vacuum leak somewhere.
I think your idea of removing the whole manual choke setup and just making sure the high idle pin is not engaged on any of the teeth, but is setting at rest. That will tell you what's up IMO.
f the cam isn't moving and the high idle pin is not being engaged then only the low idle adjustment screw would need to be adjusted, right?"
Yes.
But are your symptoms a high idle that you can't get down, or is the choke mechanism still being held open, either by misadjustment or mechanically hanging up?
Reason I'm asking is that I have fought many a high idle condition not only the later z/s carbs, but the h series as well, only to realize that I had a vacuum leak somewhere.
I think your idea of removing the whole manual choke setup and just making sure the high idle pin is not engaged on any of the teeth, but is setting at rest. That will tell you what's up IMO.
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Apr 18, 2026 11:09 AM
Top Contributor
Joined 7 years ago
2,962 Posts
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You can’t just remove the choke, removing it opens airways.
This may help.
https://cdn.lotuselan.net/original/3X/9/e/9ed48036979af41048894cefa02be6920cf9f355.pdf
1978 MGB
When diagnosing issues related to running and stalling, always check to see if you have gas in the tank first.
This may help.
https://cdn.lotuselan.net/original/3X/9/e/9ed48036979af41048894cefa02be6920cf9f355.pdf
1978 MGB
When diagnosing issues related to running and stalling, always check to see if you have gas in the tank first.
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Arizona Shorty
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P, A, Albania
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Apr 18, 2026 12:36 PM
Joined 2 years ago
4,926 Posts
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"You can’t just remove the choke, removing it opens airways."
You don't remove the choke, you remove the mechanism the moves it, which is quite easy, especially since a manual system has been installed. Then lock down the choke assembly so it can't move. I was able to do that on my original ZS without the manual conversion.
Of course, this leaves you without a choke at all.
You don't remove the choke, you remove the mechanism the moves it, which is quite easy, especially since a manual system has been installed. Then lock down the choke assembly so it can't move. I was able to do that on my original ZS without the manual conversion.
Of course, this leaves you without a choke at all.
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