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Best Products to restore oxidized paint??

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10kpharo Avatar
10kpharo Julian Howard
Windsor Lodge, West Coast of New York, USA   USA
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I still have the original Flamenco Red paint job on my B. It's badly oxidized in places. I don't have an orbital polishing machine, so I have to do the work by hand. Anyone out there recommend a product (or combination of products) that can bring back some of the shine and get rid of some of the oxidation and stains in the paint? I hear good things about McGuire's 'Cleaning Wax'.

I used to use rubbing compound and polishing compound on my folks' cars when I was a kid, but I don't want to take off any more paint than I have to.

Thanks.



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John D. Weimer Avatar
Cape Girardeau, MO, USA   USA
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I usually wash an oxidized car with Cascade dish washing compound and a woolly wash mit first. That takes a lot of it off. After that a self cleaning wax uaually does pretty good.

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B-racer Avatar
B-racer Jeff Schlemmer
Shakopee, MN, USA   USA
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3M rubbing compounds are great! They offer hand and machine versions of all their best products and most Napa stores carry them.



jeff@advanceddistributors.com

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Albert Avatar
Albert Albert Viator
Gloucester, MA, USA   USA
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1978 MG MGB "Squeaky"
If you have any doubt about the amount of paint you have on the surface, start out with the polishing compound. If that does the job you're all set. If you need a little more aggressive cleaning carefully try the rubbing compound.

I've always had good luck with those products, done by hand. Then finish up with wax.

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Swamperca Avatar
Swamperca Swamper Ca
Nevada City, Nor-Cal, USA   USA
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1970 MG MGB GT
1971 MG MGB "Rubee"
1974 MG MGB "Groovy B"
3M stuff is good, at Harbor Freight they have a buffer for $29.00 and it works good, variable speed too.

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ClayJ Avatar
ClayJ Silver Member Clay Johnston
Mt. Olive, MS, USA   USA
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1972 MG MGB
I hate to suggest it but I ended up wet sanding with 2000 grit then waxing yawning smiley

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Jack Long Avatar
Millsboro, DE, USA   USA
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1955 MG TF 1500 "Harriet"
1974 MG MGB "Lucy"
I agree. 3M rubbing compound, followed by 3M Finesse polish and then 3M hand glaze, does a superb job on badly weathered finishes. On areas where it isn't bad, try the Finesse first. It is less abrasive than the compound and may be all you need.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2008-04-28 10:36 PM by Jack Long.

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Close to Sarnia, ON, Canada   CAN
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Rubbing compound followed by a clay bar. It did wonders for the paint my Spitfire.





MOWOG Garage serving the needs of all Post Abingdon MG owners in Lambton Co. since 2011.

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Speedracer Avatar
Speedracer Platinum AdvertiserAdvertiser Hap Waldrop
Taylors, SC, USA   USA
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1961 MG MGB "LL" Lady Lynn"
1967 MG MGB Racecar "The Biscuit"
I always used a buffer with first rubbing compound,then go back with a mixture of rubbing compound and Mcquiers #3 machine glaze, then a final buffing or hand with straight #3. You won't normally find #3 in your local auto parts store, you have to get it at the auto paint store, 3M had similar products that work as well. Mcquiers Cleaner Wax is a good product to use after you're done to keep the color vibrant, but it's a watered down version of #3 with wax included.

The key with a buffer is not to let ii ride on the edge of the buffer pad and not to dwell too long on any edges of the body to prevent burning the paint. Kepp the buffer moving and flat, that's the key to buffing. When I talking of a buffer, I talking of standard type pad buffer, not a orbital buffer.



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newt0229 Avatar
newt0229 Jim Newton
Pittsburgh, PA, USA   USA
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1958 Triumph TR3A "Lumpy"
1965 MG MGB "Rusty Two"
1966 MG MGB "Felix Unger"
1975 MG MGB "Junior"
There's a company in Cleveland, Oh that makes a product called NicSand (That's the company name as well). It's primarily a scratch/swirl remover but I have used it to finish off jobs that called for color sanding for years. I got my first box of it a Pep Boys but order it by the case now. It has it's own applicator that fits into a 3/8" drill (you have one of those right?) It's incredibly efficient, leaves a shine like glass, does not remove ANY valid paint and you can do the entire car in a day without breaking a sweat. A coat of finishing wax is all that's required after using it so you're not getting bogged down in multi-step cleaning systems.

Newt

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JackMG Avatar
JackMG Jack Lindler
Ĺake Murray (Batesburg), SC, USA   USA
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Anyone mention an air compressor, spray gun and can of paint?

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danthefitman Avatar
danthefitman Dan The Fitman
Portland, OR, USA   USA
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1979 MG MGB MkIII "Simply, A Great B!"
The best product out there is the Porter Cable 7424. http://www.deltaportercable.com/Products/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=11080

Meguiars sells the Porter Cable, but theirs cost, twice as much as buying it as a Porter Cable Osculating Buffer. Just go online and google Porter Cable 7424...this buffer does amazing things for paint. My car's red and it removed all the oxidation. Ya can't burn the paint as with regular buffer that doesn't osculate. Then use Meguiars swirl remover #2 I believe. Just go to your autoparts store and they'll carry the full line of Meguiars waxes.

So it is a combination of the proper wax or swirl remover and more importantly, the correct machine. Doing by hand will pale in comparison to using the Porter Cable 7424 -- you'll love the results.

How to use it link : http://guidetodetailing.com/articles.php?articleId=47



1st Place Winner ABFM Portland Oregon 2008, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015 & 2016!
Email me for questions or needs, I'll respond promptly! dan@allpointsorganized.com
Life. Positively in order.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2008-04-29 10:15 AM by danthefitman.

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Ronzi Avatar
Ronzi Ron Shaw
CO, USA   USA
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1964 MG MGB
Dan,
I'll have to look into this Porter Cable "osculating buffer" business, it sounds too good to be true. Not only does it give you a good wax job for your money, but a kiss into the bargain.


I suspect you mean an "oscillating buffer" ... ?
.
.
.
.
Sorry, I just couldn't pass it up.

RonS.


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danthefitman Avatar
danthefitman Dan The Fitman
Portland, OR, USA   USA
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1979 MG MGB MkIII "Simply, A Great B!"
Hey Ron, I found that the word osculate has several meanings and the one you've refered to is not the one I was meaning. Although correct you are, I am too. The two words have more in common that their differences it appears. Interesting for sure. You could say the buffer kisses the paint in a circular, almost an elliptical manner if you will. That is definitely how Porter Cable Buffer works. Funny.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Osculating_circle
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oscillation
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ellipse


It really isn't too good to be true. When I borrowed my clients buffer, then by Meguiars (their name on it)...and used on my B, wow! I purchased two foam pads, one for the swirl remover then another for the wax. The foam pad used for the swirl remover was deep red when I finished, removing all that gooky, yes gooky...oxidation that seemed to lurk on my paint forever, no matter how much hand waxing I did on the paint. You won't believe the results, truly. I am blown away at the results. Every time I use on those stubborn areas of my car, the deck behind the top, nearest the trunk, and the hood, (which is now finally after several times of swirl then wax...is gone!). It enriches the paint and brings it back to life. People now say, 'just get it painted'...nope.

See ya, Dan





1st Place Winner ABFM Portland Oregon 2008, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015 & 2016!
Email me for questions or needs, I'll respond promptly! dan@allpointsorganized.com
Life. Positively in order.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2008-04-29 05:05 PM by danthefitman.

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Ronzi Avatar
Ronzi Ron Shaw
CO, USA   USA
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1964 MG MGB
Dan,
Nice recovery.
I have to say I have never heard an ROB described as an "osculating" buffer before, Liebnitz notwithstanding.
I have had Griot's version of an ROB for awhile, and with the foam pads and a selection of cleaners, polishes, waxes and the like it will do a remarkable job with seemingly little danger of damaging sharp edges, etc.
Some folks claim this is because the usual commercial cleaners and polishes are not aggressive enough to hold much danger of paint damage. With the professional detailer products, where time is money, it presumably is much easier to damage the paint if you are not careful and/or experienced.
RonS.

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