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Acquired a 59 MGA project vehicle that needs sheet metal work, i.e. sills, rockers, trunk pan etc. Inspected the tubs tin and its heavily rusted. Decided the bare tub and fenders ( no doors, bonnet/boot panels) need to be dipped to eliminate the rust before I start any metal work.

Question. Can anyone recommend a dipper/dipping process located in Florida. I reside in Melbourne Florida and I will trailer the tub to get this done by a competent firm using the least harmful process. Will travel to Georgia or South Carolina if theres a better process.

Would like to start with a clean slate before making any repairs. Any help is appreciated, Brad

Note that removing the body from the frame may lead to the body separating into two halves. It is generally advised to restore the structural integrity of the sills and pillars before removing it from the frame. And said integrity it is vital to proper door fit.

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Eric Russell ~ Mebane, NC
1961 MGA #61, 1̶9̶8̶1̶ ̶A̶l̶f̶a̶ ̶R̶o̶m̶e̶o̶ ̶G̶T̶V̶6̶, 1984 Alfa Romeo Spider, 1991 Honda ST1100

Eric

Thanks for the reply. Previous owner did a poor job (welds are sloppy) on replacing the right inner and outer sill but their solid. I intend to redo all this work. The left inner and other sill and rocker needs to be tackled but the amount of rust in the A and B pillars leads me to wanting to get it dipped first. I will need to grind quite a bit to get to clean metal to weld to - but it can be done. Just hate putting nice new metal in the rusted tub. My plan was to cross brace the tub before lifting it off the frame. If putting in the new left sill and rocker is a better approach to maintaining the structure and door alignment, I may switch gears...again. Just want to get it right.
Thanks again, Brad

If you find a place, make sure to fully neutralize the compound . I've seen the solution seeping out of orifices months after dipping and ruining primer and even paint. It's not legal here in California any more. The place i used to use was great but on low-lying land near SF bay. One particularly rainy year, the whole place flooded, the tanks overflowed and the solutions ended up in storm drains. End of dipping business :-( Basil 707.762.0974 basiladams@yahoo.com

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Basil C. Adams
1956 MGA Coupe (Show Car)
1957 MGA Roadster (Driver)
1958 MGA Coupe (Racecar)
1959 MGA Coupe (unrestored)
1960 MGA Coupe (unrestored)
1960 MGA Roadster (Driver)
MKIII Elva Courier (E1056)
1967 427 Cobra
1972 Alfa Romeo Montreal
A coupla late MGBs
1960 Austin Healy BN7
More Cars than Brains

Why not just have it dustless blasted… cheaper and better for the environment.

And yes… you’d be best off repairing some of those issue and then brace the body and then remove if from the frame. Under good circumstances these bodies can fold like a cheap suit.

I am NOT a fan of dipping.
No matter how well you neutralize and wash out the chemicals you can’t get it all off.
Some residue will be left where multiple layers of sheet metal were spot welded together.
I prefer to blast rust.
But:
An inexperienced operator or the use of too harsh of media can destroy a body.
The last body I had done had a really good operator who used glass beads.
Never blast the aluminum with anything.
Dipping eats aluminum. The backing plates for the windshield grab handles are held in place by aluminum pop rivets.
The first and only car I dipped was in 1986. Fortunately they found the plates in the cage the body was put in.
The subsequent 4 frame of restorations were all blasted with glass. Unfortunately the guy that did them is no longer able to do the job.

I had a mobile wet blaster come do my frame, body and body parts, none of the aluminum ones. He did a great job, no issues with warped panels. The only issue was getting all the media out of the nooks and crannies. Spent days poking and blowing out the leftover sand, still shakes out of places at times. He sprayed it down with a rust inhibitor afterward. I primed the body parts right away but left the frame bare for needed repair work. I never had any issue with it flashing even after being stored in a heated but damp garage over the winter months.

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"If I agreed with you, we'd both be wrong."

Here is a pic of what media blasting, dry or wet, won’t find. This is what you discover when the outer sills are removed. Putting aside the perpetual debate surrounding the best methods for mass removal of body coats I chose to take my beast to the dip and strip spa. I’m happy with the results.

I chose to media blast (wet) after the metal work to the body was completed, primarily to remove the old paint, rather than the rust that was cut out. It also allowed me to remove the body from the frame in order that it too could be blasted. The frame repairs however were completed after the blasting. There are many ways to do it this was just my way.

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"If I agreed with you, we'd both be wrong."

Why do you suspect that media blasting would not reveal such extensive rust out? For sure media blasting will not get inside cavities.

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Eric Russell ~ Mebane, NC
1961 MGA #61, 1̶9̶8̶1̶ ̶A̶l̶f̶a̶ ̶R̶o̶m̶e̶o̶ ̶G̶T̶V̶6̶, 1984 Alfa Romeo Spider, 1991 Honda ST1100

If you do decide on dipping you'll need to drill out the cage nuts aluminum rivets. these are for attaching the Grap handles. Mosss # 472-070/472-080.

If you don't the chemical in the dip tank will eat the aluminum rivets and the cage nut brackets will fall to the bottom of the tank----Never to be seen again.






John

Hey Eric, in this case, the inner sills were covered by the outer sills which were in deceivingly much better condition. The back sides of the inner sills did not indicate there was much worse hidden damage. My point being, the non-liquid alternatives would not remove rust in hidden locations. The liquid solution eliminated additional secondary rust, paint, etc. removal. And, yes, if not properly rinsed and neutralized there would be issues. The shop I used was well aware of such issues.

I appreciate everyone providing information and advice. Haven't made a firm decision as I am weighing the pros and cons of both methods. Don't like dust, but don't like the idea of residual chemicals oozing out at some point in the future.

I have pulled the fenders and went over every piece of tin in the car - found more rot, tin crinkles, panel waves etc. My left sill looks like Mikes picture - not quite as bad though. Bolted the body down in all locations - welded up and bolted in braces across door openings and across the cockpit. Its solid now - not going to move. Didn't tie brace to left B pillar as that pillar has to go. My left sill and rocker are toast. The B pillar is toast. The panel the B pillar is welded to is wrinkled and the corner (curved part) of the shroud at the B pillar is wrinkled bad and covered with Bondo. So, I have decided to cut it all out and rebuild it with clean tin. Its just finding solid clean and unbent tin to weld to. Today is measuring and photo day. I'm up for the tasks ahead, but I know that body is going to cut me - I got 7 stitches from a B I did a inner and outer rocker on. Photo of the 59 MGA that followed me home.

"John's RULE"

If you don't bleed on it.
It's not worth doing.

John

Hah Brad… mine came home in the same shape and manner 22 years ago