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Replacing ignition module on a Rover V8 Distributor 3.9 35DLM8

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Ricey30 Avatar
Ricey30 Phil R
Chessington, Surrey, UK   GBR
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Thanks guys for those responses ,

(Thomas very clever but too much for me! )

Jim/Alan seems straightforward and great pics Alan and UK parts even better

Thank you all

Phil

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about 1 year and 1 month later...
Devonrod Avatar
Devonrod Dave Lowe
London, UK   GBR
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Is there a lead that goes from the distributor to the module, I am starting from scratch with a lots of bits a friend gave me, so I am in the dark as what to connect to what ! I want to move the module on the alloy plate to somewhere cool.


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allanreeling Avatar
allanreeling Allan R
Randlay, Telford, Shropshire, UK   GBR
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The 35M8 or 35 DLM8 is reluctor distributor. It is not "Hall effect" but actually an AC generator. The pick up coil should have a resistance of 3.3`k ohms or there abouts, and the air gap between the point of the "star" wheel and metal centre of the coil has a tolerance of 0.8" to 0.14", measured with a non ferrous feeler gauge, (brass or plastic).
The DLM's side mounted Amplifier is heat sensitive and needs a good grounding as well as heat sink paste between it and the dissy. These dissys usually have a, largely unused, male earth spade...........use it!
The DM8 uses a remote amplifier, which is, by and large, the GM 4 pin module shown by Jim.Ideally they are connected via a sheathed cable. It needs a good heat sink, ( and paste), a cool place AND a good grounding earth.
The system works off full battery voltage and the coils are low ohm units. The original Lucas item was DLB198, which is 0.8 or 1.00 ohm. You will get little out of anything above 1.5 ohms and nothing from a normal 3 ohm.



soonerv8
Do it right, do it once!

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Devonrod Avatar
Devonrod Dave Lowe
London, UK   GBR
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In reply to # 4477844 by Devonrod Is there a lead that goes from the distributor to the module, I am starting from scratch with a lots of bits a friend gave me, so I am in the dark as what to connect to what ! I want to move the module on the alloy plate to somewhere cool.

Apparently I can just make up a lead using Econoseal connectors I have been told ?

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Devonrod Avatar
Devonrod Dave Lowe
London, UK   GBR
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I have got some screened cable and some econoseal female plugs, can any one tell me what wires go to where ? from the two pin dissy end to the three pin module end.


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Linear72 Avatar
Linear72 Gold Member Thomas Hess
Woburn, MA, USA   USA
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Hi Dave

Hope these help. There are two different pages for early and late production. Z139 is the module with wires to the distributor and then to a 3 wire plug out to the coil. The RED wire goes to coil+ and the BLUE wire goes to coil-. The third wire would go to the shield

Tom



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2022-03-18 07:06 PM by Linear72.


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Devonrod Avatar
Devonrod Dave Lowe
London, UK   GBR
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In reply to # 4480840 by Linear72 Hi Dave

Hope these help. There are two different pages for early and late production. Z139 is the module with wires to the distributor and then to a 3 wire plug out to the coil. The RED wire goes to coil+ and the BLUE wire goes to coil-. The third wire would go to the shield

Tom

Thank you Tom

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TikiCricket Auggie A
Cambridge, MD, USA   USA
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Having owned 10 Range Rover Classics over the past 15 years, I have gotten pretty proficient with changing the ignition module. I always have a spare with me. 9/16ths end wrench for the diz hold down clamp nut and a small adjustable to get the screws off. Pull out the distributor to get at the module, noting the position of the rotor. zip zip, new module on, distributor back in where it was, tighten the nut, off you go.
I recommend the relocation and conversion to the GM module. Makes life easier.

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about 2 months and 6 days later...
Devonrod Avatar
Devonrod Dave Lowe
London, UK   GBR
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I have done the remote mod now, for any body else see attached picture for positive / negative connections
I have the car running fine, I used a brand new Intermotor 12v coil a friend gave me, reading the very good comments from Allen R I was looking at purchasing the Lucas DLB 198 coil, the trouble is most of the "Lucas" products you buy now are just made in china, I was looking at the MSD Blaster 2 coils and wondered if those would be OK, no idea what ohms they are ?


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allanreeling Avatar
allanreeling Allan R
Randlay, Telford, Shropshire, UK   GBR
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Dave, ~Just check that the intermotor coil's primary resistance is no greater than 1.5ohms, less if you want better spark output. Measure from pos to neg terminals on the coil. Ignition off.



soonerv8
Do it right, do it once!

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Devonrod Avatar
Devonrod Dave Lowe
London, UK   GBR
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In reply to # 4513711 by allanreeling Dave, ~Just check that the intermotor coil's primary resistance is no greater than 1.5ohms, less if you want better spark output. Measure from pos to neg terminals on the coil. Ignition off.

Thank you will do

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waldog99 Avatar
waldog99 Wally Jonker
Outside of Tacoma, WA, USA   USA
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Looks good! Did you end up using a heat sink for the remote module? Do you have a picture of that set up?
Wally

In reply to # 4513548 by Devonrod I have done the remote mod now, for any body else see attached picture for positive / negative connections
I have the car running fine, I used a brand new Intermotor 12v coil a friend gave me, reading the very good comments from Allen R I was looking at purchasing the Lucas DLB 198 coil, the trouble is most of the "Lucas" products you buy now are just made in china, I was looking at the MSD Blaster 2 coils and wondered if those would be OK, no idea what ohms they are ?

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Devonrod Avatar
Devonrod Dave Lowe
London, UK   GBR
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In reply to # 4513811 by waldog99 Looks good! Did you end up using a heat sink for the remote module? Do you have a picture of that set up?
Wally

In reply to # 4513548 by Devonrod I have done the remote mod now, for any body else see attached picture for positive / negative connections
I have the car running fine, I used a brand new Intermotor 12v coil a friend gave me, reading the very good comments from Allen R I was looking at purchasing the Lucas DLB 198 coil, the trouble is most of the "Lucas" products you buy now are just made in china, I was looking at the MSD Blaster 2 coils and wondered if those would be OK, no idea what ohms they are ?

This is not on a MGB, I used the factory standard alloy mounting bracket but bent it to be in a cool area away from the rad heat extracted from the fan, any thick alloy would do to make a heat sink but you need the special grease when mounting the module
I also made a spacer you can see in the photo for the coil this also has a 13mm phenolic backing between the cylinder head where it is bolted to, I wanted to keep everything as cool as possible !



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2022-05-30 01:36 PM by Devonrod.


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Devonrod Avatar
Devonrod Dave Lowe
London, UK   GBR
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I am thinking of getting a MSD 82023 blaster coil this is 0.7 ohm coil, and maybe to go with it a MSD 5596 module, guess these would work together ?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-82023

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-5596



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2022-05-31 06:36 AM by Devonrod.

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waldog99 Avatar
waldog99 Wally Jonker
Outside of Tacoma, WA, USA   USA
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In reply to # 4513912 by Devonrod
In reply to # 4513811 by waldog99 Looks good! Did you end up using a heat sink for the remote module? Do you have a picture of that set up?
Wally

In reply to # 4513548 by Devonrod I have done the remote mod now, for any body else see attached picture for positive / negative connections
I have the car running fine, I used a brand new Intermotor 12v coil a friend gave me, reading the very good comments from Allen R I was looking at purchasing the Lucas DLB 198 coil, the trouble is most of the "Lucas" products you buy now are just made in china, I was looking at the MSD Blaster 2 coils and wondered if those would be OK, no idea what ohms they are ?

This is not on a MGB, I used the factory standard alloy mounting bracket but bent it to be in a cool area away from the rad heat extracted from the fan, any thick alloy would do to make a heat sink but you need the special grease when mounting the module
I also made a spacer you can see in the photo for the coil this also has a 13mm phenolic backing between the cylinder head where it is bolted to, I wanted to keep everything as cool as possible !

Agree! I've got a RR classic suffering from a bad dizzy module right now too. I bought the RPi upgrade kit but haven't installed it yet. Not the cheapest option, but shoud yield good results!
Wally

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