MGB & GT Forum

Beautiful day in Durham NC!!!

Just lubricated widow-crank mechanism with white-lithium grease, as explained in another thread, and it worked great!!! (first task on a 1967 B I just bought)

Thank you everyone, who contributed to the other thread, about greasing the window crank mechanism The crank was so "cranky" (I apologize) I thought I might have to replace a bunch of parts. But with a few shots of lithium grease, and some patient cranking, re-cranking, the window now runs up and down as smooth as can be. It was really, really, sticky - l was afraid I'd snap off the plastic window crank, or bust something inside the door, just rolling up the window.

The person who restored the car (years ago) did a beautiful job. There's black fabric vapor barrier that had been glued to the door frame, that I tried to get off in once piece without tearing, but failed.

Moss sells vapor barriers and they look like they'd work great, just 26 dollars a pair. But if I used Tyvek, I it would be easy to replace if I have to go back behind the interior panel

Any thoughts?

Also, any thoughts on the sound deadening (Hushmat) products Moss sells? I thought about gluing Tyvek (or the Moss plastic vapor barrier) to the metal door frame, and putting the sticky-side of the Hushmat on the interior door panel. I may be obsessing. (ya think??!!)

Thanks in advance for your thoughts on this matter.

All best,

Paul A.

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Happy Motoring!!!

Paul A.

My thoughts are that any intact plastic sheet will do, like large black garbage bags.

No idea what Tyvek is.

Herb

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Tyvek is trade name for house vapor wrap ! DuPont I think makes it, it probably will work just fine, I’m sure you can find some at any building sites refuse container. Ask first before liberating

Sound deadening works on the inside of the door skin if not there already. Cuts down on vibration and noise. Somewhere along the line that's where the factory added it.

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jb

Too soon we get old, too late we get smart!

Tyvek will work just fine for this application. RAY

Tyvec will pass VAPOR. It is more of a wind block and liquid water barrier. If you happen to have some, OK. Why not just 10 mil poly like is SOP for the entire industry? Or a garbage bag, leaf bag, old mulch bag...

To be clear, "sound deading" is not actually, It adds mass so it lowers the resonance and being silastic, broadens the Q. The same amount of energy is transferred, just lower and more frequencies so yo think there is less. There are some very expencife mats that do convert some of the vibration to heat.

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Cogito ergo sum periculoso

No, Tyvek will not work. You need a water barrier to keep the water that gets past the window seals from rotting out the door card materials. Uncoated Tyvek slows vapor movement but does very little to stop water migration. Just get some polyethylene sheeting. It's cheap and effective.

A trash bag works. They are light weight so you can use something like a glue stick to tack them in place and it's easy to poke the screws through, if that's what hold the panels in place.

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The important thing is not to get ahead, but to get along.

Moss would sell Tourer owners sunshine if it could be put in a can... LOL

P L A S T I C.... 4 MIL Lowes, Home Depot, etc. It is not rocket science people!

An inexpensive way to sound insulate the doors is to use WET-R-DRY roofing cement. Coat the inside and let it dry for a few days. Also stops corrosion. Works great (an old automotive interior guy recommended it to me years ago) but can be a real PITA to apply... Doors will have NO "ring" whatsoever when finished.

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Those who confuse Burro and Burrow don't know their @ss from a hole in the ground...

Lol. 26 bucks for a trash bag ripped in 2. gotta love em.

Adrian

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Home built Eaton M62 Supercharger with 8psi boost, 8:1 compression, custom "supercharger" cam from Schneider Cams, Mikuni HSR48 Carburetor, custom ground high ratio "stock" rocker arms, Maxspeeding rods with Teflon wrist pin buttons, custom aluminum cold air intake, CB Performance computerized ignition, Fidanza 9 pound flywheel, 1.44 exhaust valves in 48cc chamber head, matched manifolds, 2 1/4" exhaust system.

House wrap as a door vapor barrier would be a future DPO item. Plastic from the paint section in the hardware will store is what you want. Hard part is a good way to attach it that will hold up but still be removable later.


Mark..

You could just paint the backs of the door cards with oil based paint.

Adrian

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Home built Eaton M62 Supercharger with 8psi boost, 8:1 compression, custom "supercharger" cam from Schneider Cams, Mikuni HSR48 Carburetor, custom ground high ratio "stock" rocker arms, Maxspeeding rods with Teflon wrist pin buttons, custom aluminum cold air intake, CB Performance computerized ignition, Fidanza 9 pound flywheel, 1.44 exhaust valves in 48cc chamber head, matched manifolds, 2 1/4" exhaust system.

Another product from Lowes or Home Depot that is very convenient for lowering the resonance in your doors or floors is the rolled roofing material designed to be used in valley of of a residential roof. Comes in rolls about 12" wide. Adhesive on one side makes it very easy to install in the doors or anywhere else. Basically he same thing that Paul has recommended above, just a little neater to apply. For the vapor barrier I also use 4 to 10 mil plastic (whatever I have laying around), cut it to size and use "Gorilla Tape" for installation around the edges. The "Gorilla Tape" is thicker than regular packing tape and a whole lot stickier.

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Archie (Scott) McAllister
1955 MG TF1500
1968 Austin Healey Sprite
1963 Austin Healey 3000

I had my interior door skins off a few days ago to replace interior handles and service the regulators. I noticed that there was a mat bonded to the inside of the door panel, kind of spongy in texture and feel. I've no idea what it is, or when it was installed. By the looks of it, it has been there for some time. I happened to take a photo of one of the doors, you can just see the bottom of it through the larger cutout, someone more knowledgeable may know what the material is.

Kursat

Paul,...Tyvec is a 1 way cloth used to allow moisture to pass thru to the exterior of a home and out. Typical auto application is a heavy plastic sheet which is fitted to a racetrack developed in the door metal to allow a good seal providing a water proof barrier between the trim panel and any water which may enter the door. This barrier normally redirects the water back into the door where it exits thru drain holes provided to the outside of the vehicle. Automotive paint supply stores will have the sticky stuff used to attach the plastic sheet which is called butyl and will allow reuse with handling care. I would locate that racetrack and develope a paper or cardboard templet with some tape. I’ve seen different materials used but they keep going back to the heavy sheet with butyl bead. After install flatten that bead as needed. This extra care will help preserve your door panels for many years from that water damage should your car ever see a rain drop... rn