MGB & GT Forum

Hello everyone,

Well I checked my timing today and it seems that I am retarded by a little bit. I also noticed that my 1974 MGB is also 5* retarded...

I have always just set timing on other cars by rotating the distributor. On my MGB the adjustment knob seems a bit siezed and unwilling to turn, so I was just going to rotate the distributor instead. I was just wondering, how much adjustment is possible with the knob? I always hate messing with something that works so I hate to start fiddling with teh knob if I don't have to...but is there a serious advantage to using it?

Thanks,
Brad

Brad, the "knob" I assume you are referring to is the Vernier adjusting nut on the side of the dizzy. Someone on this board can tell you exactly how many "clicks" it takes to advance or retard your timing one (1) degree (as I recall the number of clicks per degree is high... 10-20?), but to answer your question, I don't think there's a big advantage to using it. Personally, I static time my '71, using a test light, then I manually adjust it with my hand (and a few test drives) until I get a nice, smooth idle and good acceleration. If you end up being a percent of a degree off, I don't think it really matters.
Good luck,
Mike

along these lines, which end of the timing marks is which... the top towards the drivers side is TDC? or the bottom side towards the passenger side. With the timing light on at idle, where should the timing mark be?

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/____ timing mark should line up where?
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I thought I read somewhere it was 8 clicks/degree, but that could be wrong as it's been a long time. At any rate, I wouldn't use it for any more than very fine tuning, and certainly not to try to move the timiing 5 degrees.

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"If I knew where the good songs came from, I'd go there more often."

Leonard Cohen

According to the Factory Workshop manual for the early B’s, “55 clicks of the vernier knob (advance and retard knob) is equal to 5º of movement on the moving plate”. The owners manual describes the static timing that I have been using on my B since I got it and have had no problems.

“A simple electrical method may be used to insure an accurate check. Connect a 12 volt bulb between the low tension terminal on the side of the distributor and a good earth point on the engine. Switch on the ignition. If the bulb lights, turn the knurled nut towards the “R” u9ntil the light goes out, and then back towards the A until it just lights. This will give the correct static timing”.

“If pinking should occur due to the use of a lower range of fuel other than our recommendations, retarding the ignition 2 to 3 º can be tolerated. In no circumstances should the ignition be advanced beyond the correct setting”.

You might give this a try as it as worked out for me.

George Herschell

That's a good question, Robert (and one that one of the "pros" on this site should answer instead of me). I have always understood the mark that is furthest clockwise is TDC, with each mark representing five degrees. However, I have also read that some Bs have one mark (the center point) that is larger than the others that is designated to be TDC. Also, earlier Bs have the pointers under the pulley, rather than on top...

Personally I have always timed my cars by setting the static timing then tweaking it by the use of a vacuum gauge as this allows for the vagrities that can occur in manufacturing. Remember the timing marks on an engine are only a guide and would only work if all engines were exactly the same. Be prepared to deviate a little from the "book" settings.