MGB & GT Forum
Switched out fuse box...Uh Oh...
Posted by RestorerMG
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Apr 9, 2024 07:01 PM
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Joined 6 years ago
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That fuse block is all wrong. it is meant for you to bring power tot he plus post on top and each fuse is fed from there. you need a fuse box that has an in connection on one side and out on the other side of the fuse.
I had looked at those multiple times and came to the conclusion that either it would not work, or one would have to modify it. If I were to modify it I would think one would need to take it apart and see if there is a common bus bar inside. if so, you would want to separate the bus bar so some of it is ignition sourced and some of it is battery constant sourced.
I had looked at those multiple times and came to the conclusion that either it would not work, or one would have to modify it. If I were to modify it I would think one would need to take it apart and see if there is a common bus bar inside. if so, you would want to separate the bus bar so some of it is ignition sourced and some of it is battery constant sourced.
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MG14611
Robert P
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Apr 9, 2024 07:20 PM
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Joined 6 years ago
2,459 Posts
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Keep in mind that the Original fuse block is not only a 4 fuse device, it also serves as a distribution point where an input source, be it switched or unswitched, feeds out to one or more circuits.
If you’re only attempting to add fuses to circuits the weren’t individually and independently fused before, then you could make use of fuse panels that have no common feed buss. HOWEVER the common connection point of the original fuse block must be preserved, either by keeping the original fuse block or by adding daisy chain jumpers to the new fuse panels.
A fuse block with a common feed buss provides the distribution to replicate the function of the oem fuse block.
You just need as many separate fuse blocks as there are independent feeds. One benefit of these new fuse blocks with common feeds is that they all appear to have built in LED lights that light up when a fuse is blown, aside from the benefit of using bladed fuses.
If you’re only attempting to add fuses to circuits the weren’t individually and independently fused before, then you could make use of fuse panels that have no common feed buss. HOWEVER the common connection point of the original fuse block must be preserved, either by keeping the original fuse block or by adding daisy chain jumpers to the new fuse panels.
A fuse block with a common feed buss provides the distribution to replicate the function of the oem fuse block.
You just need as many separate fuse blocks as there are independent feeds. One benefit of these new fuse blocks with common feeds is that they all appear to have built in LED lights that light up when a fuse is blown, aside from the benefit of using bladed fuses.
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Apr 9, 2024 11:40 PM
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Joined 12 years ago
29,281 Posts
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BEST "AntiTheft" device posted this year so far Great Job.
IN ALL SUBJECTS.: For those who believe, no proof is needed. For those who don’t believe, no proof is possible.
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough"
Sir Henry Royce
co-founder of Rolls-Royce .
"I take no credit for my own, of another man's fame".
Joe Baba 2021
In reply to # 4782173 by RestorerMG
Hello all,
After describing what the car is doing, I will be open to any humor that you see in my predicament...I'm prepared...
Switched out the old fuse box to a 12-position blade type box.
As it stands now:
Engine only turns over and starts if light switch is on.
Turn on light switch, fuel pump starts.
turn lights off, turn key to ON position, fuel pump starts.
Turn key to start, nothing except fuel pump.
Switch on light switch, car starts.
Turn lights off, engine still runs but dash gauges shut down.
I've been tracing wires to see if I connected two (some) of them wrong. I had to double up the circuits because of the 12 fuse connections.
Also, I was told the new box needed to have a circuit "jumped" which I do not know what that accomplishes.
With engine off and light switch on, every fuse post has power.
Noticeable with new fuse box, brighter lights, more responsive blinka's.
I know it might be hard to follow my description but if i can get guidance for the correct connections, I appreciate it!
Car is drivable as long as parking light are on...everything else electric functions fine.
I think I need to start from square one...
Thanks All,
Bill
(Wire nuts are temp.,)
After describing what the car is doing, I will be open to any humor that you see in my predicament...I'm prepared...
Switched out the old fuse box to a 12-position blade type box.
As it stands now:
Engine only turns over and starts if light switch is on.
Turn on light switch, fuel pump starts.
turn lights off, turn key to ON position, fuel pump starts.
Turn key to start, nothing except fuel pump.
Switch on light switch, car starts.
Turn lights off, engine still runs but dash gauges shut down.
I've been tracing wires to see if I connected two (some) of them wrong. I had to double up the circuits because of the 12 fuse connections.
Also, I was told the new box needed to have a circuit "jumped" which I do not know what that accomplishes.
With engine off and light switch on, every fuse post has power.
Noticeable with new fuse box, brighter lights, more responsive blinka's.
I know it might be hard to follow my description but if i can get guidance for the correct connections, I appreciate it!
Car is drivable as long as parking light are on...everything else electric functions fine.
I think I need to start from square one...
Thanks All,
Bill
(Wire nuts are temp.,)
IN ALL SUBJECTS.: For those who believe, no proof is needed. For those who don’t believe, no proof is possible.
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough"
Sir Henry Royce
co-founder of Rolls-Royce .
"I take no credit for my own, of another man's fame".
Joe Baba 2021
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Crispin
Crispin Allen
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Apr 10, 2024 05:50 AM
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Joined 6 years ago
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It’s a good idea to modernise the electrics. They were just about adequate for the 1960’s. But after 40-60 years of wear & tear, there’s probably quite a few areas which could be improved. Anything that reduces the chance of the car going up in smoke is a good idea. Bill’s idea is a good one, but just needs a few tweaks in the execution. Here's one of the many skinned cat options.
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Topic Creator (OP)
Apr 10, 2024 09:03 AM
Joined 19 years ago
429 Posts
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Topic Creator (OP)
Apr 10, 2024 09:06 AM
Joined 19 years ago
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Topic Creator (OP)
Apr 10, 2024 09:18 AM
Joined 19 years ago
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Hi John, Yea, Im not very methodical, wire nuts will go. Im going to get the correct box for the switched circuts.
I was having trouble with the bottom fuse and connections. Kept cutting out, but fuse would not blow. I thought it might have been the ignition relay but tracing the problem, it was the fuse box. Second Lucas I've installed. Blades just seem to be safer and there is a marked diff. in the light brightness and flasher speed.
When I get it sorted and neat, I will repost, It will be neat and concise.
Thanks for the feedback,
Bill
I was having trouble with the bottom fuse and connections. Kept cutting out, but fuse would not blow. I thought it might have been the ignition relay but tracing the problem, it was the fuse box. Second Lucas I've installed. Blades just seem to be safer and there is a marked diff. in the light brightness and flasher speed.
When I get it sorted and neat, I will repost, It will be neat and concise.
Thanks for the feedback,
Bill
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Apr 10, 2024 10:10 AM
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Joined 12 years ago
1,009 Posts
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Crispin
Crispin Allen
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Apr 10, 2024 10:15 AM
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Joined 6 years ago
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Apr 10, 2024 12:19 PM
Joined 4 years ago
51 Posts
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There have been several posts about a modern 4 blade fuse fuse box for the MGs. That is the best and easiest conversion on this planet! Put that 12 blade in the "opps" box and get the 4 blade unit. Also if you didn't download those wiring diagrams, go back and do it. They are the tops and absolutely necessary in dealing with the Prince of Darkness.
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Apr 10, 2024 12:36 PM
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Joined 12 years ago
29,281 Posts
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TOTALLY AGREE: Everything else looks "Cluttered", NOT Pretty at all. Four is enough. Wrap some of the clutter.
IN ALL SUBJECTS.: For those who believe, no proof is needed. For those who don’t believe, no proof is possible.
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough"
Sir Henry Royce
co-founder of Rolls-Royce .
"I take no credit for my own, of another man's fame".
Joe Baba 2021
In reply to # 4783317 by Mudlark
There have been several posts about a modern 4 blade fuse fuse box for the MGs. That is the best and easiest conversion on this planet! Put that 12 blade in the "opps" box and get the 4 blade unit. Also if you didn't download those wiring diagrams, go back and do it. They are the tops and absolutely necessary in dealing with the Prince of Darkness.
IN ALL SUBJECTS.: For those who believe, no proof is needed. For those who don’t believe, no proof is possible.
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough"
Sir Henry Royce
co-founder of Rolls-Royce .
"I take no credit for my own, of another man's fame".
Joe Baba 2021
Member Services:
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Factor
Steve Williams
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Apr 10, 2024 01:31 PM
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Joined 4 years ago
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Topic Creator (OP)
Apr 11, 2024 06:11 PM
Joined 19 years ago
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Factor
Steve Williams
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Apr 11, 2024 06:40 PM
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Joined 4 years ago
346 Posts
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Almost. You really should be looking at the Advance wiring diagram. Here's a screen grab from the page with North American '74...
You need to jump the two top left terminals to get power from the light switch (red/grn) to all the light circuits on the left side (red).
The ?? where you have some brown wires - those should be 1) the white wire from the ignition switch (which brings KO power to your fuse box) and 2) the white wire that take KO power to your coil.
The stated wire colors are assuming that wires haven't been replaced with different colors - but that's what they should be connected to.
You need to jump the two top left terminals to get power from the light switch (red/grn) to all the light circuits on the left side (red).
The ?? where you have some brown wires - those should be 1) the white wire from the ignition switch (which brings KO power to your fuse box) and 2) the white wire that take KO power to your coil.
The stated wire colors are assuming that wires haven't been replaced with different colors - but that's what they should be connected to.
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MG14611
Robert P
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Apr 11, 2024 06:47 PM
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Joined 6 years ago
2,459 Posts
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In reply to # 4783873 by RestorerMG
Hi All,
Does this look like thr correct circuit connections?
Advise, comments appreciated...
Bill
Does this look like thr correct circuit connections?
Advise, comments appreciated...
Bill
Your diagram doesn’t show the the internal connections of the actual fuse block you are using.
To properly evaluate your current wire plan, can you at least provide the make and model of the fuse block you are using?
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