MGB & GT Forum
restoring the transmission mount
Posted by SNS
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Topic Creator (OP)
Apr 18, 2026 06:12 PM
Joined 5 years ago
64 Posts
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My latest project is restoring the transmission mount including new bushings and hardware. While removing the support brace I noticed a variety of bolts and variety of sizes/length and a couple actually missing which was why it was a little easier to remove. I have a good inventory of grade 5 & grade 8 bolts so I will typically replace most bolts with new ones. I was fighting some of the holes with the new bolts so I ended up "tapping" the holes where the support bolts into the underside as well as the holes in the transmission itself where the rubber mounts bolt on. When I test fit one of the holes in the transmission I was able to screw in a 5/16" x 24 bolt so I tapped the remaining 3 the same. I later heard that bolt was a UNC thread so I'm confused as to which is accurate? And, is it possible a previous owner tapped a fine thread into a course thread hole? My new fine thread bolts screwed in easily and seemed to have a good grip... I'm worried that I ruined the ability for that screw to hold tight...
Steve
Steve
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Apr 18, 2026 07:05 PM
Joined 15 years ago
36,362 Posts
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UNC is used when screwing into soft metal like aluminium EG the 4 holes in the transmission casing for the pair of mounts. IDK what your fix is unless you go up a size.
Mk1: CKD 11/66 first registered 8/5/67; owned since 3/77. 18GB +40 balanced. Peter Burgess BVFR head. Piper 285. 123. FidanzaFW. 4synch c/r box. Superpro. Nut and bolt rebuild 2010 - 2015. Tartan Red.
GT: 12/78. VW Golf guards, flush fit front and rear valances, frenched indicators, Mk1 rear lights - LED lights. 'Worked' Rover V8, Monsoon ECU for EFI. Commodore VSV8 GM4L60E, Lokar tiptronic shifter & Quick4 controller. Vintage Air A/C. FC IFS. CCE 4 link rear. Salisbury with Quaife. Jaguar Storm.
Mk1: CKD 11/66 first registered 8/5/67; owned since 3/77. 18GB +40 balanced. Peter Burgess BVFR head. Piper 285. 123. FidanzaFW. 4synch c/r box. Superpro. Nut and bolt rebuild 2010 - 2015. Tartan Red.
GT: 12/78. VW Golf guards, flush fit front and rear valances, frenched indicators, Mk1 rear lights - LED lights. 'Worked' Rover V8, Monsoon ECU for EFI. Commodore VSV8 GM4L60E, Lokar tiptronic shifter & Quick4 controller. Vintage Air A/C. FC IFS. CCE 4 link rear. Salisbury with Quaife. Jaguar Storm.
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Apr 18, 2026 07:19 PM
Top Contributor
Joined 25 years ago
3,785 Posts
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Topic Creator (OP)
Apr 18, 2026 08:16 PM
Joined 5 years ago
64 Posts
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Thank you for your responses... I was afraid those were my choices. If I decide to "go up a size" Barrie, have you done that before? Is it a difficult job to keep the hole straight while boring it out? I'm a bit worried about screwing it up beyond fixing...
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Apr 18, 2026 09:49 PM
Joined 15 years ago
36,362 Posts
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I have only upsized the MC flanges to 3/8 UNC but they were not already threaded. Even if you used a helicoil you need a bigger hole. OTOH you should be able to feel for how tight your repair already is.
Mk1: CKD 11/66 first registered 8/5/67; owned since 3/77. 18GB +40 balanced. Peter Burgess BVFR head. Piper 285. 123. FidanzaFW. 4synch c/r box. Superpro. Nut and bolt rebuild 2010 - 2015. Tartan Red.
GT: 12/78. VW Golf guards, flush fit front and rear valances, frenched indicators, Mk1 rear lights - LED lights. 'Worked' Rover V8, Monsoon ECU for EFI. Commodore VSV8 GM4L60E, Lokar tiptronic shifter & Quick4 controller. Vintage Air A/C. FC IFS. CCE 4 link rear. Salisbury with Quaife. Jaguar Storm.
Mk1: CKD 11/66 first registered 8/5/67; owned since 3/77. 18GB +40 balanced. Peter Burgess BVFR head. Piper 285. 123. FidanzaFW. 4synch c/r box. Superpro. Nut and bolt rebuild 2010 - 2015. Tartan Red.
GT: 12/78. VW Golf guards, flush fit front and rear valances, frenched indicators, Mk1 rear lights - LED lights. 'Worked' Rover V8, Monsoon ECU for EFI. Commodore VSV8 GM4L60E, Lokar tiptronic shifter & Quick4 controller. Vintage Air A/C. FC IFS. CCE 4 link rear. Salisbury with Quaife. Jaguar Storm.
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