MGB & GT Forum

Can anyone recommend the proper tool for removing the plug on the back of the piston pump in a black label overdrive? It has two holes, which would I guess fit some kind of spanner, but I haven't been able to find one the right size. I'm open to suggestions...

Thanks,

Vinny

Crescent (adjustable) wrench?

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The plug on the back of the pump has two holes in it, rather than taking a hex wrench. There's a tool for this that looks like a cube with 3/8" square holes on each face that a socket extension would fit in, and two or four pins of various sizes and spacings on each face, but the tool that my friend had like this did NOT have the right spacing for the plug in the overdrive.

The plug I'm talking about is labeled item 67 on the exploded view of the LH overdrive in the Moss Motors catalog. See: Moss catalog - LH overdrive page

that plug is usually not screwed in too tightly. put 2 phillips screwdrivers in the hole, hold them in place with one hand and use another screwdriver between the two to move them.


method 2. use a punch and hammer and tap it enought to get it started.

Concur with above...mine wasn't too tight so I was able to turn using needle nose pliers.

I used a pair of needle nose pliers I think that is also what John twist used in his video,
Better tip don't mess with the pump unless you have a good reason to take it out

The tool referred to above accurately describes one used to screw the pistons back into the bore on cars having read disc brake emergency brake systems. On those systems the piston has a threaded screw into the back of it and the only way it can be pressed back into the bore is by screwing it back in. All the parts houses carry them. Never checked mine to see if the holes/pins line up with the OD plug!

For the OD pump removal I took a piece of 1/2" x 1/8" steel bar and center punched it at the distance the indents in the plug. Then I drilled 3/16" holes in it. I rounded over the ends of a 3/16" rod and then cut them off about 3/4" or so, pressed them into the bar and spot welded them on the back side. Then I welded the whole thing to a 3/8" x 3/8" socket, trimmed the ends off the bar and used it many times. Thing shouldn't be in there that tight anyhow, but "tight" is different for different folks.

Might make DARNED sure you know how it goes back together. There's a ball and spring set under it and the pump has flats on it that ONLY go one way.

Good luck.

Tom

Take a pair of needle nose pliers and seat them in the holes firmly, then clamp a pair of vice grips on the flat hinge point of the pliers. That lets you maintain downward force while you apply the twisting force with the vice grips.

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1970 MGB Black Label OD, APT VP12, Fidanza Flywheel, Flowspeed Head, Hilton AUD405 HS4 SU's, Schlemmerized Distributor, Pertronix Ignition, Saturn Alternator, 15" Dayton Wire Wheels, Falken ZE 912's, Falcon Big Bore
1972 MGB GT Blue Label OD, APT VP14, Fidanza Flywheel, Flowspeed Head, HIF SU's, Schlemmerized Distributor, Points Ignition, Saturn Alternator, 15" GC360 Wheels, Falken ZE-950s, Peco Exhaust, Frontline Costello front valance

Vincent,

Once again, Harbor Freight has the tool you need. It's called an Adjustable Pin Spanner, item #36554. It has a slight offset so you won't scrape your knuckles. The pins fit perfectly in the holes, too. As a bonus, you can use it on your disk grinder to change the grinding disk when you lose the spanner that came with it. All this for $4.99.

Got the thing out using a pair of center punches in the holes, with a pry bar between them. Good thing I took the thing apart, was totally gunked up (like the rest of the overdrive was). Now just waiting for the O-rings to get here, and put the whole thing back together.

Thanks for the suggestions, guys.

V.