MGB & GT Forum

LOL, geez, just use the lead hammer. I, also have seen more than a one of the wooden tools take a big crapola.

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Hap Waldrop
Acme Speed Shop
864-370-3000
Website: www.acmespeedshop.com
hapwaldrop@acmespeedshop.com

Well, I bought the knockoff spinner tool yesterday.
The ease of mind that I will get by not having to worry if I am going to accidentally hit my fender is worth the price.
Sarto Rocheleau the owner was a real pleasure to deal with.
Very professional and even gave me a refund when he found out that the shipping was less expensive than he estimated.

When I receive the tool and torque wrench, I will upload some photos and give my impressions.

Stay tuned.

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Raymond Kunst
3950 N. Lake Shore Drive
Apt. 1200A
Chicago, IL 60613

Email: chicagoray.rk@gmail.com

Art Photography: raymond-kunst.fineartamerica.com

Facebook Art Photography Page: www.facebook.com/RaymondKunstPhotography

LinkedIn: www.linkedin.com/in/RaymondKunst

Chicago Ray Wrote:
They are here: http://clarkandclarkinc.com/1098_wrench.htm

Yes, they can and will deform and break over time, but unless you are taking nuts off and on all the time like a shop, or using it on stuck nuts (a definite no-no) this wrench should last for years.

On a stuck nut, I advise placing just one end of the wrench on an ear, using the dense 1 inch thickness as a cushion between your hammer and chrome ear.

On a side note, I do have several wrenches with visual blemishes. I'd let these go for $20 ea with purchase of anything else from the web site.

Cheers :-)

Robert

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65 MGB Roadster 60 MGA Roadster
66 Etype Roadster
94 Miata Roadster 99 Miata Roadster
07 Tacoma Pickup
85 Ferrari GTS

http://www.clarkandclarkinc.com --Cool Accessories for British Sports Cars!
Holland, MI (southwest Michigan)

Robert you have a PM.
Thanks,
Chris

I have to wonder what sort of collection of near sighted and/or inept owners we are talking about if they need special tools to avoid beating the crap out of adjacent body panels when trying to aim at a knock off spinner.

Here's a hint, guys - keep your eyes open when you swing... ;-)

I just use a lead hammer. On some of the modern Moss repro spinners (Twin Cam) the materal is softer than original and even a lead hammer will marr it, so I use a piece of plywood between the hammer and knock off (replace plywood as needed). When you have something in each hand, it is mandatory that the operation be carried out with eyes open.......

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Bill Spohn www.rhodo.citymax.com/carstuff.html
Current: 1958 MGA Twincam (race car (170 bhp)),1962 MGA Deluxe Coupe (98 bhp)
1957 Jamaican MGA (200 bhp)1965 1971 Jensen Interceptor (350 bhp)
2009 Pontiac Solstice GXP Coupe (375 bhp)
2007 BMW Z4M coupe (340 bhp)
Recent: 1969 MGC roadster (175 bhp),Jensen CV8 (375 bhp),
1969 Lamborghini Islero S (350 bhp), 1988 Fiero GT turbo (300 bhp)
North Vancouver BC

bills Wrote: Ya can't argue with that logic! I agree, and a lead hammer is all I ever use. I've beat the crap out of the spinners on my cars and have never left so much as a mark. Recently I had a stuck spinner (threads were bunged) and it took me 20 minutes of hammering as hard as I could before I finally got it off. Not a scratch. The wood tool would have been destroyed before the spinner ever moved. Even the lead hammer was smashed and distorted after that episode. But the point is that a proper hammer will do no damage, unless as Bill says you hammer with your eyes closed.

bills Wrote:
Well that’s all fine and dandy, but I know of two people that have hit their car and put a couple of nice chips in the paint.
Accidents happen, and I do not want to take any chances on my pristine original paint.

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Raymond Kunst
3950 N. Lake Shore Drive
Apt. 1200A
Chicago, IL 60613

Email: chicagoray.rk@gmail.com

Art Photography: raymond-kunst.fineartamerica.com

Facebook Art Photography Page: www.facebook.com/RaymondKunstPhotography

LinkedIn: www.linkedin.com/in/RaymondKunst

I got this one from LBC during their Christmas sale last year for under $30. I like it a lot. I went this route after I went for my free tire balancing and rotation at the local tire store where I purchased my tires three years ago. I mosied around to where the assigned tire tech, of lumberjack size, was working on my job. I found him flailing away with the hammer and wrench from my trunk. He was pounding in the wrong direction, and had clipped my right wheel arch once already, just nicking the paint. I corrected him, cautioned him, and left him to finish. The next time I went to remove my wires to lube the splines I had to flail on each knockoff like Steve describes in his message. I like to never got them off. The tech had grossly overtightened them.

This wrench has lots of leverage, and is thin enough that it takes up literally no space in the trunk.
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=37102&SortOrder=3

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Frank
MGBJockey

If you look at the new Moss catalog (MGB-81) on page A30, they show a Long Handle Knockoff Wrench for the octagon nuts. Part number 386-125 for the eared knockoffs, not shown, lists for 49.95. I have one, came with my 67GT, and it works great. Lots of leverage. I'll see if I can snap a pic and post it.

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1971 MGB New Racing Green - Dayton Chrome Wires 72 spoke; General Altimax RT 175/70/14; Pertronix; audiovox cruise control; Moto-Lita 15" wood wheel; Limey relays for headlights, high beams and horn; factory hard top; Clark & Clark seat belt guide clips, upgraded alternator.

1974 Triumph Spitfire

2005 Scion TC - daily driver

2005 Toyota Sienna - my wife's ride, and mine when I need to go to Home Depot.

mgbjockey Wrote:
Frank I have the same tool only made for the winged spinners. I like mine also.
Bill

I have the winged spinner tool you guys are referring to, but I don't like the way the metal edge bites into the chrome. Every time I try one of these "wonder tools" I end up coming back to my trusty hammer. It does no damage and works well. None of the other tools I've tried can do both. Plus, the knockoff hammer can sometimes be used for a different task while making a roadside repair.

I agree about having the hammer available and it stays in my trunk as well. I just installed new knock offs before MG2009 because my originals show a lot of bite marks and other wear from over the years. I have to assume those are from the short wrench and hammer based on the corresponding wear on the hammer and wrench and lack of evidence of any use of other tool. Thanks for the warning on bite marks. I'll be very careful to seat the wrench squarely.

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*************

Frank
MGBJockey

Here's some pics of the Moss tool.

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1971 MGB New Racing Green - Dayton Chrome Wires 72 spoke; General Altimax RT 175/70/14; Pertronix; audiovox cruise control; Moto-Lita 15" wood wheel; Limey relays for headlights, high beams and horn; factory hard top; Clark & Clark seat belt guide clips, upgraded alternator.

1974 Triumph Spitfire

2005 Scion TC - daily driver

2005 Toyota Sienna - my wife's ride, and mine when I need to go to Home Depot.

Another pic.

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1971 MGB New Racing Green - Dayton Chrome Wires 72 spoke; General Altimax RT 175/70/14; Pertronix; audiovox cruise control; Moto-Lita 15" wood wheel; Limey relays for headlights, high beams and horn; factory hard top; Clark & Clark seat belt guide clips, upgraded alternator.

1974 Triumph Spitfire

2005 Scion TC - daily driver

2005 Toyota Sienna - my wife's ride, and mine when I need to go to Home Depot.

bdev Wrote:
Bruno,
If you follow the link in my message you end up at the Moss page with the information on the wrenches for both the octagon and earred knockoffs.

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*************

Frank
MGBJockey