MGB & GT Forum

Thanks for all your answers.
Yes, I use only one liner for the 12V-battery and the other for spares, here I see no problem.
But the point is, the vendor sells liners, which do not fit and It is not possible to screw them down as required, by their own description.
Are my demands too high (for parts that are not cheap at all)?

regards Walter

I think so but that is always a debate here Did you contact Robert Clark?

Let me ask, do you have the seating pads #AHH6351 in place in your battery cage? These pads are approximately the thickness you are lacking?

B

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Life's most persistent and urgent question is, "What are you doing for others?"

It may be that the depth of the battery boxes fluctuated over the years and to have just one mold, they went with the smaller size while also beefing up the thickness to be rigid enough to stand alone (I'm just guessing here).

It also seems to me that the plastic liner not coming in contact with the bottom of the original battery rack does not stop someone from still installing a battery clamp as long as they line up where they drill the hole in the plastic liner so the clamp can pass through and connect to the supporting metal bar underneath.

If you click on Barrie's #40 from the Moss Europe catalogue and scroll down to #40 you will find that two different part #s are listed. One for Chrome bumpers and another for Rubber bumpers. There is no way a 26 could fit with the posts front to back in chrome bumper version.

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Ben
1966 MGB Tourer
1973 MGB Tourer

I thought boxes a-bit expensive for a plastic box. So got piece of heavy shower liner from Homedepot, then cut glued my own liner to fit completely inside battery frame. Bigger than the box, and totally seals off the area.My 2¢.

Walter, I have 2 of the boxes in my 1974 MGB.
I have used them for 15 years +\-, the group 26 R was a snug fit for the first battery box so snug in fact that their was no need for a hold down you could lift the battery and box out of the car as a unit with the battery's built in handle, once the cables were unhooked, and the battery access lid securely locks the boxes down in the car. I installed the battery in the passenger side and I use the drivers side as storage box with no issues. when I replaced that now 10+ year old battery I discovered the new battery was a bit larger than the old one, the Advance Auto parts Diehard Group 26 was a tiny bit bigger than the Car-quest Group 26 battery it replaced and was an even tighter fit, I used a hairdryer to warm the box to give it more flexibility and it slid in and is working just fine also with no hold down needed. The + and - cable holes were the only cuts made in the plastic battery box, and of course any battery smaller than the group 26 battery's that I have used would need a way to secure them.

X2, on the non-battery side it just hangs in its surround, the12V battery (a VARTA C30 in my case) sits 90 degrees turned in the open, second cage.
It is only in this battery side cage that I included some kind of thick MDF plank on the bottom frame ridges to assure the battery stands on a fixed surface
Holding the battery down to this MDF plank is done by two nylon straps positioned crosswise over the top and running underneath the framework.

PS I no longer use these metal pulls and strip, they once destroyed the cases of my oldfashioned 6 Volts "tar" type batteries so acid leaked out

PS2 To fit this VARTA into the narrow cage the bottom ridges on its casing were sawed off by my battery provider, this way my guarantee was retained
VARTA Silver line batteries like this C30 are maintenance free and I no longer check anything on it, just put a trickle charger to it on long standstills

"I think I cut up a crappy Moss heater box rubber block on my table saw. works great and helped tidy the shelf in my garage".
PS.
Bruce, and everyone, the old rubber battery pads work great in a vice to hold things so they are not marred or damaged ...



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 2024-04-06 10:55 AM by Watauga.

Thanks for the hint with the rubber pads, but that is no solution, as the contact area is too small -- photos.

I contacted Robert Clark and he answered:
"The bins are short of touching by design. There is enough MGB build variance (and product variance) where trying to get the exact dimension from the bottom of the Bin to the outside lip of the Bin would be impossible. A Bin that fit your car perfectly would then not fit someone else’s!"

OK I will put something under the battery bin and the other side, as spare bin needs nothing.

Thanks again for your kind hints
Walter

Walter

Bear in mind that a battery fitted without a bin will only contact on the rubber pads.

I don't see an issue?

B

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Life's most persistent and urgent question is, "What are you doing for others?"

Walter, these Robert Clark battery boxes do not need any support from the original MGB metal Battery Boxes.
They just need to fit into the battery wells and to be held down and in place by the cars metal battery assess cover.
I have used one that had nothing left of the MGB metal Battery Box and it works flawlessly for at least 15 years supporting all the weight of a group 26 battery. These things are tough!

X2 on William's comment. I've used these boxes on both our roadster and GT. Many miles, all smiles.

Steve

Battery in the box. A piece of wood above the battery to prevent the battery terminals coming into contact with the metal lid in a collision situation. No need for anything underneath it as the plastic box is supported by it's edges

Yep, that is what I was gonna tell you, they are meant for storage when converting to a single battery to be use in the now empty 2nd battery location, not much for the battery be used inside of it, but some have shown if you an even smaller battery it can work.

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Hap Waldrop
Acme Speed Shop
864-370-3000
Website: www.acmespeedshop.com
hapwaldrop@acmespeedshop.com