MGA Forum

I’m new to the hobby, this is my first car restoration. I have a 1960 MGA coupe. Frame is in good shape, body is fair with rust at typical spots-sills, pillars, etc.

The good folks on this forum have advised that I replace the sills with body still on frame, so as to use the frame as the jig for the new sills—that makes sense. Barney’s website gives similar advice and also says: “The essence of rebuilding the MGA body is to start in the middle and build the body around the doors.” He then goes on to say “When repairing door posts, keep the doors close at hand to assure proper construction and alignment of the posts so the doors will ultimately fit and work properly.”

But at some point I'm going to need to remove the fenders to work on them, and in most videos or photos I've seen of bodywork in progress, the front and rear fenders are off, leaving just the tub. And of course the rocker panels have to come off to work on the sills.

So here's where I start to get confused--once the inner body structure has been restored, ultimately I'm going to need to align the door skins with the edges of the front and rear fenders on either side, and the rocker panel below, with a good narrow and even gap all around. How do you get everything aligned around the doors, when you're working on the inner body structure (the stripped-down tub) and yet it's the outer body that eventually aligns? Is Barney just referring to proper door opening and closing between the posts?

So what is the sequence of it all when it comes to re-building “around the doors?” What about bracing across the door openings before taking the tub off the frame? I’d like to get started taking the fenders, doors and rocker panel off so I can see just how much rot I’ve got and start repairing it.

Steve (welcome if I haven't already welcomed you). My contention is that MG hung the doors in space and built the body around them. When you are restoring the body you'll be installing & removing the fenders (wings) innumerable times. It's a little aggravating but the only way to get it right. The door hinges & latches have some adjustability so it is probably best if you start with them in the middle of their range of movement. I like to start with one shim at each hinge (I use 1/1/6" thick gasket material). I can then add or subtract shims if needed. Also, mark the hinges for original position - it is possible they have been slightly bent for best fit so being able to return them to their original positions may help.

Note that most reproduction patch panels & rockers do not fit correctly. It is best to get the doors in position and make those parts fit to the doors rather than install them and try to make the doors fit afterwards. For example, I sliced the rockers lengthwise and took out a tapered section ~ 1/4" at one end & 3/8" at the other end.

I have read that the replacement panels from Kilmartin in Australia are the best fitting parts. It might take longer to ship them here but it'd probably be worth it in the long run to have the best parts to work with.

Once the sills & pillars have been properly restored the body will be quite rigid. There is no need to brace across the cockpit unless you are forced to remove the body before restoring the sills. I did attach a couple of 1x3's from above the dash to the rear tonneau panel but that was more to assist in lifting then any need for bracing.

Now then, regarding pictures. We like pictures! So be sure to post lots - before, during, after - we like them all!

---

Eric Russell ~ Mebane, NC
1961 MGA #61, 1̶9̶8̶1̶ ̶A̶l̶f̶a̶ ̶R̶o̶m̶e̶o̶ ̶G̶T̶V̶6̶, 1984 Alfa Romeo Spider, 1991 Honda ST1100



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2023-02-25 04:11 PM by ghnl.

X2 Eric.
Kilmartin are fabulous - virtually plug and play.

---

Peter Malkin
NE Victoria
Australia
MGBGTV8 (1977)
MGB Roadster (1967) Supercharged
Triumph TR3A (1959)
MGA 1500 (under restoration)

I also used Kilmartin panels very pleased. The door shut panels from Moss were terrible, Kilmartin perfect and cheaper. If your shut lines are reasonable at the moment then measure everything before dismantling and do one side at a time. Indeed the doors, wings will be on and off several times. I made cardbord templates from the original panels with datum points marked before offering up the new panels. Trial assembly of the inner sills before welding using self tappers.
Good idea to remove the glass from the doors they are heavy to keep putting on and off.
Mark the hinges with a punch for replacement in the same position and orientation ie. UR. LL etc otherwise you'll be in Dickie's, meadow as we say. When I removed mine one was fitted the wrong way round, they are not symetrical.
In some respects a coupe body is easier as the roof will maintain front/rear relationship but getting a good window seal can be a pain.
My first A was a 1500 coupe the passenger door was bolted on as the A pillar was rotten, made taking gfs out fun in the late 60s

Here is a photo journal of one of my restorations so you you can see the process. Post photos and ask questions as you go.

1957 MGA 1500 In the Rough https://photos.app.goo.gl/45gsyW2ma5WBXYa26

1957 MGA 1500 Repair https://photos.app.goo.gl/1NDP9ENSUCxEkjtp8

1957 MGA 1500 Reassembly https://photos.app.goo.gl/Yi4MKkXM8ks1kzjJ9

If you are replacing the sills, weld bracing in the cockpit area, fore, aft and vertically to the frame before you do any cutting. Most important is to keep the door pillars correct.

---

See my journal for restoration photos, articles and tips.
https://www.mgexp.com/journal/Bob-Shafto.5974/
https://www.mgexp.com/journal/Bob-Shafto.5974/toc



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2023-02-25 08:54 PM by szpcn0.

Hello Steve and welcome to the site .Lots of help here and you have been introduced to Barneys site ,Full of info. I have done a few mga's so far and am on a 59 coupe at the moment.
I leave the door hinges attached to the doors just undoing them from the A posts.,also I leave the bonnet and boot lid hinges attached to the body ,just removing them from the bonnet and lid.That way they dont get mixed up . Very good idea to brace the a and b posts for added strength before removing any material from the sills.
I remove the fenders fore and aft but leave the body still attached to the chassis so it wont change position when removing the sill and plate, I find the doors will still line up OK as the A and B posts havent moved .Lining up the doors with the rocker panel is not too bad as the rocker does have some room for adjustment and the fenders can be moved up ,down ,fore and aft to help get the gaps correct. I have my latest coupe hanging on straps from the rafters at the moment but I do use a rotisserie for the under neath rusty repair bits . My avatar shows my first coupe sitting on a trailer . Bob's driver quality mga coupe restoration is a very good thread to follow..Terry

Hello again Steve, just thought i would mention that I have the rear fenders hanging by a couple of bolts just to roughly line the door up .With the coupe the doors can be lined up with the upper opening and if it fits well there it should be close all over. I have the rockers attached with self tapping screws so I can adjust them a bit more before welding I have had these doors on and off at least 3 times now so get ready for multiple fittings. attach the doors fenders and rockers to get it all lined up Then when i know it all works will remove them all for painting .I have the body in primer with the under neath painted Still lots of body work and metal work to do on the fenders,doors etc. Terry

Steve can you post a couple of pictures of your car.Terry

Welcome to the madness, this will take you through the frame off restoration of a coupe done by me and my family in our own garage and back yard


https://www.mgexp.com/forum/mga-forum.2/1958-mga-coupe-driver-quality-restoration.2085517/

Terry has great posts on his coupe restorations, Jim Cheatham has a beautiful coupe with lots of photos and Daniel Ross just finished a beautiful coupe restoration. Kirk Yost is in his new garage doing great work on his coupe. There is lots of knowledge here and you should search some of these guys in the search function to read up on what we have encountered.

Personally I am a fan of one long continuous thread for a car because it orients us to provide the best advice. Good luck bob. Did I mention we Live for Photos?



Edited 4 time(s). Last edit at 2023-02-26 06:52 PM by bobs77vet.

Wow, thanks everyone for great advice and info. It all became clear when Eric said "you'll be removing and installing those wings innumerable times!" Hmm, where's the smiley with my hand slapping my forehead? Maybe also need a smiley to say "oh, man, this is going to be even more work than I thought!"

Great tips, guys. Thanks. Here's some pictures of my car.

Steve

Your pictures show front and rear glass in situ. It would be a good idea to remove and store all the glass as soon as possible to save heartbreak later on.

Cheers
Dave

Hi Steve, looks like a very good car ,has someone allready redone the chassis? Looks pretty good. x 2 on the advice re glass from Dave.Terry

And buy new glass rubber do not try to reuse it

Terry, yes I'm at least ahead of the game on the undercarriage--the frame, brakes, front and rear suspension, and steering were all restored within the last 10 years--some of the work done by John Twist's shop

Kilmartin parts are excellent and they ship really quickly. I got mine in Canada in about a week.
Cheers Wes