MG Midget Forum
What Else, My Midget
Posted by Bandslak
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Apr 21, 2024 01:53 PM
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MassMidget74
Ted C.
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Apr 21, 2024 02:23 PM
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Topic Creator (OP)
Apr 21, 2024 02:42 PM
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No, I mean laying (flat, straight, level) out until just above the attachment to the choke. I've gone through a few choke cables. Most times it feels like I might pull the dash off trying to pull the choke.
I have attached a metal wheel on top of the rocker cover and it does work a little better but I don't think I will be able to leave it there because the air filters may not fit.
I should have taken a few pictures to show. Maybe tomorrow.
I have attached a metal wheel on top of the rocker cover and it does work a little better but I don't think I will be able to leave it there because the air filters may not fit.
I should have taken a few pictures to show. Maybe tomorrow.
Billm
Bill Masquelier
Santee, CA, USA
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1960 MG MGA 1600
1965 MG Midget MkII 1966 Austin-Healey Sprite "Sprite" 1966 Austin-Healey Sprite "Sprite" |
Apr 21, 2024 03:26 PM
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Topic Creator (OP)
Apr 21, 2024 05:02 PM
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I know that's not the problem. I'll have to try and take a few pictures.
I'm beginning to think its the cable itself. I haven't seen many but a few I have seen have a upward loop in the cable which then goes down through the pipe and connects to the choke arm.
I'm beginning to think its the cable itself. I haven't seen many but a few I have seen have a upward loop in the cable which then goes down through the pipe and connects to the choke arm.
pbcjr
peter cantamessa
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Apr 21, 2024 05:18 PM
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It may be that you have a solid inner cable instead of a stranded cable.
Solid cables are designed to pull and push, and need to be stiff to push. like the cable for the heater box air inlet flap.
Stranded cables are designed only to pull, not push, like a choke cable. The chokes don't rely on the cable to push the choke to the "off" position because there are return springs on the choke linkage to do that job.
Solid cables are stiff, and don't like a tight radius curve. The stranded cables are very flexible, and aren't fussy about curves.
I fought with a solid choke cable in my '71 for years until I realized what the problem was. I switched to a stranded cable, and it's a world of difference.
In 1974 when I was 18, I passed on buying a running and driving 1966 E-Type coupe for $1,500, which is what they were selling for at the time.
Fifty years later, I'm still kicking myself...
Edited 5 time(s). Last edit at 2024-04-21 05:33 PM by pbcjr.
Solid cables are designed to pull and push, and need to be stiff to push. like the cable for the heater box air inlet flap.
Stranded cables are designed only to pull, not push, like a choke cable. The chokes don't rely on the cable to push the choke to the "off" position because there are return springs on the choke linkage to do that job.
Solid cables are stiff, and don't like a tight radius curve. The stranded cables are very flexible, and aren't fussy about curves.
I fought with a solid choke cable in my '71 for years until I realized what the problem was. I switched to a stranded cable, and it's a world of difference.
In 1974 when I was 18, I passed on buying a running and driving 1966 E-Type coupe for $1,500, which is what they were selling for at the time.
Fifty years later, I'm still kicking myself...
Edited 5 time(s). Last edit at 2024-04-21 05:33 PM by pbcjr.
Topic Creator (OP)
Apr 21, 2024 05:25 PM
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pbcjr
peter cantamessa
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Apr 21, 2024 05:29 PM
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I got mine from Moss. PN 331-240. About $14.
It also locks into position with a twist to the right wherever you want it to be when the choke is on.
In 1974 when I was 18, I passed on buying a running and driving 1966 E-Type coupe for $1,500, which is what they were selling for at the time.
Fifty years later, I'm still kicking myself...
Edited 5 time(s). Last edit at 2024-04-21 05:34 PM by pbcjr.
It also locks into position with a twist to the right wherever you want it to be when the choke is on.
In 1974 when I was 18, I passed on buying a running and driving 1966 E-Type coupe for $1,500, which is what they were selling for at the time.
Fifty years later, I'm still kicking myself...
Edited 5 time(s). Last edit at 2024-04-21 05:34 PM by pbcjr.
Topic Creator (OP)
Apr 21, 2024 06:22 PM
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pbcjr
peter cantamessa
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Apr 21, 2024 07:11 PM
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In reply to # 4787747 by Bandslak
Thanks Peter, I don't think there is a problem but I see it is for a 68, mine is 67.
Moss says the 331-080 cable fits the '67, but it's $47.
Maybe others will know if the cable I used will fit your car.
In 1974 when I was 18, I passed on buying a running and driving 1966 E-Type coupe for $1,500, which is what they were selling for at the time.
Fifty years later, I'm still kicking myself...
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2024-04-21 07:12 PM by pbcjr.
ACW270
Karl Thompson
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Apr 22, 2024 02:01 AM
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It is generally more helpful to use company part numbers than Moss sales numbers. These will allow you to compare which part goes with which model, including using Moss's own excellent website site. See item 25 for the two choke cables used on 1275cc Spridgets:
https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/mg/midget/fuel-system-induction-controls/engine-controls/engine-controls-emission-sprite-iv-midget-iii-1500-1967-79.html
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2024-04-22 02:18 AM by ACW270.
https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/mg/midget/fuel-system-induction-controls/engine-controls/engine-controls-emission-sprite-iv-midget-iii-1500-1967-79.html
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2024-04-22 02:18 AM by ACW270.
ACW270
Karl Thompson
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Apr 22, 2024 02:32 AM
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The exploded views are also helpful in working out routings and related parts. The cable fixes to the dash, is protected by a grommet at the bulkhead, supported by a band at the side of the heater before being held at the rear carb by a trunion fastener.
I use these drawings a lot as the MGOC, my nearest source of supply, does not cater for early Spridgets but I can tell if the parts they do sell are the same part numbers for my Mk2 Midget.
Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 2024-04-22 03:34 AM by ACW270.
I use these drawings a lot as the MGOC, my nearest source of supply, does not cater for early Spridgets but I can tell if the parts they do sell are the same part numbers for my Mk2 Midget.
Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 2024-04-22 03:34 AM by ACW270.
scotty1998
Scott Gibson
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Apr 23, 2024 11:06 AM
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Just to chime in here because on my '72, I just replaced mine. You probably already know all this already but mine simply feeds through the firewall, through a grommet and then naturally curves down to the carb linkage. I'm wondering if your linkage is bound up, or, your linkage isn't adjusted properly? Are your jets sliding up and down in the bearings easily enough? What about your linkage pivots too? Perhaps they're loose and binding? Finally, what about your fast idle screw positions?
I see Karl mentions a strap at the heater box which mine doesn't have so, I'll need to install something similar. Where exactly does this go Karl?
1972 MG Midget MKIII "The VB Weller"
55,400 Miles
Watkins Glen, NY
Edited 7 time(s). Last edit at 2024-04-23 11:23 AM by scotty1998.
I see Karl mentions a strap at the heater box which mine doesn't have so, I'll need to install something similar. Where exactly does this go Karl?
1972 MG Midget MKIII "The VB Weller"
55,400 Miles
Watkins Glen, NY
Edited 7 time(s). Last edit at 2024-04-23 11:23 AM by scotty1998.
ACW270
Karl Thompson
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Apr 23, 2024 11:28 AM
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scotty1998
Scott Gibson
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Apr 23, 2024 11:29 AM
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