T-Series & Prewar Forum

Very slight play in front hub assembly - with spindle nut tightened. I think it needs a thin shim fitted between the larger end of the bearing spacer and the outermost face of the inner hub bearing.

I need to address the slight play that I feel and hear when I grasp the splined hub and move it up and down.

Has anyone else run into the need for shims when tightening up hub?

Thanks in advance,

Jeff

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Jeffrey W. Delk
Hartwell. Georgia USA
1950 MGTD #2301
1954 MGTF 1500 #7673
1957 MGA
1971 MGB Tourer

No that isn't normal. That would suggest something is amiss. Perhaps a bearing isn't fully seated? Wrong bearings? Spacer damaged? Hub incorrectly machined? Since everything is compressed on the inner bearing race, I don't see any shims working as a fix on the outer race surface myself. I converted mine to tapered bearings myself which I feel is a much better setup. And in that case you would need need shims.

Thanks LaVerne.

I’ll pull it apart and check the areas you mention. I wondered if the tolerance in the bearings is excessive- causing this slight free-play. I’ll let you know if I see anything amiss.

Is there a specification for the measurement on the bearing distance piece?

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Jeffrey W. Delk
Hartwell. Georgia USA
1950 MGTD #2301
1954 MGTF 1500 #7673
1957 MGA
1971 MGB Tourer

I have never seen any spec on the spacer. I didn't like the play in the ball bearings myself which is one of the reasons I converted to taper bearings.

just guessing, but wire wheels can become loose due to excessive spline wear.

Huey,

The play is in the actual hub bearing assembly. The wire wheel has been removed. Thanks.

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Jeffrey W. Delk
Hartwell. Georgia USA
1950 MGTD #2301
1954 MGTF 1500 #7673
1957 MGA
1971 MGB Tourer

It depends on where the play is...

Ball bearing to race
Race to hub
King pin vertical / lateral

The ball bearings in the TD hub aren't designed to be shimmed to reduce play. The spacer should be the exact distance between inner races. Any play from there is in the bearing itself. You can buy tighter tolerance bearings, as well as deep groove which are better designed for this purpose and if I recall correctly was the original spec (not a TD expert so don't quote me on that). All the bearings I've seen sold for our cars are just standard ball bearings, nothing special. I'll admit that I've used shims to very slightly reduce play in ball bearings, but it isn't really the best practice as far as I know.

If the play is the bearing moving in the hub then the hub is no good and should be replaced. The smallest amount can be corrected with sleeve retainer or similar, but I wouldn't consider this a permanent solution.

It's also easy to mistake bearing play for worn king pins, in my experience usually when both have play and the king pin play makes it feel like the bearings are looser than they really are.

Thanks so much Steve - I think you have it with

“Bearing to race”

Hubs are basically new - car has less than 4-5,000 miles on a complete rebuild from years ago. Kingpins are solid.

I will try to source some tighter tolerance bearings or “deep groove” as you suggest.

Thank you for taking time to respond with these suggestions.

Best regards,

Jeff

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Jeffrey W. Delk
Hartwell. Georgia USA
1950 MGTD #2301
1954 MGTF 1500 #7673
1957 MGA
1971 MGB Tourer

If you really want minimal play, LaVerne's suggestion of a tapered bearing conversion isn't a bad idea. I've converted TCs and once set up properly the play is greatly reduced.