MGB & GT Forum

I'd like to replace/upgrade my starter. The old one periodically jammed into my flywheel. Now the engagement spring assembly blew up on me and the flanges on the assembly are all distorted and excessively worn. I think i may have lost a part or two when it went. I have no good exploded diagram of it to refer to.

I'm sick of it to say the least. I have seen Moss's swap over video.



It talks and shows of 2 wires coming from the newer starter. All the ones I have seen on parts websites(pictures only I don't have one in front of me) don't have a wire harness on them. Do these starters have tabs so I can make the wire to loop for the solenoid as shown in the video? There again all I have is pictures that have crap detail. One important point it doesn't mention. I what to do with the red wire. Leave it dangle?

Also, all the things I see gloss over or do not address the grounding, i.e. positive vs. negative. Or if it even matters.

I would appreciate any information from someone who has done this mod.
Thanks guys!



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 2024-04-20 01:55 PM by mjsmgb67.

I believe the mini starters are all neg ground. And British Starters sell/make them for 225?
Mine also was for my 67

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'learn from the experts, you won't live long enough to figure it all out..."

I don't really understand your question. Is your '67 +ve or -ve earth? Is your U/S starter the inertia starter - parts shown here? Not that it really matters as you can buy hi-torque starters with either polarity - there are many discussions on these.

FWIW my Mk1 has been converted to -ve earth. It has a hi-torque starter which replaced my inertia starter when I fitted a Fidanza FW but it still gets its juice via the inner guard mounted solenoid.

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Mk1: CKD 11/66 first registered 8/5/67; owned since 3/77. 18GB +40 balanced. Peter Burgess BVFR head. Piper 285. 123. FidanzaFW. 4synch c/r box. Lots more as I did a nut and bolt rebuild; finished 2015. Tartan Red.

GT: December '78. VW Golf guards, flush fit front and rear valances. Torana XU1 vents, frenched indicators & Mk1 rear lights. 'Worked' Rover V8 with Monsoon ECU for EFI. GM4L60E, Lokar tiptronic & Quick4 controller. Vintage Air A/C. FC IFS. CCE 4 link rear. Salisbury with Quaife. Jaguar Storm.

Here's a rebuild video. They are pretty simple. The benedix are available and considerably less than a hi-torque starter. A clean up and new brushes may be all you need. Getting jammed may also be due in part to the ring gear on the flywheel.
?si=SsNZ6zDWupanBFbs

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Ben
1966 MGB Tourer
1973 MGB Tourer

The ring gear issue is another reason to go to the hi-torque starter, since it engages from the opposite side of the flywheel.

Thanks for the video. But I am looking to go to the other starter, not rebuild mine.

My main question was the positive grounding and should I worry about it. Moss has a video on how to wire it up but skipped the grounding part. I'm thinking it doesnt matter.

I have the same starter; switched polarity with no mods to the starter. All three of my Bs had this starter- one constantly jammed which was a pain- I had to unjam it in a tuxedo- I had a boiler suit so my James Bond entrance was not messed up but I broke my nails. I thought the Bendix one was overly complicated.

You said you switched polarity with no mods. I don't understand that.