MGB & GT Forum
Run On - With a catch
Posted by Philip8794
Philip8794
Philip Schmid
Zurich, Switzerland
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Apr 11, 2024 09:01 AM
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Hey Guys, something weird is happening;
My 66 MGB Roadster runs on - Buuuuuut here's the catch
If I drive it for maybe 15 mins on normal roads - mostly straight - at around 60kmh slowing down and accelerating for traffic as I go, and then pull over, wait 10s and shut her off, she runs on mildly. Now, If I drive for 30 minutes or more, and drive her "hard" (run it up to 4.5k or somewhere around there) and then pull up and shut it off nice and hot, also waiting a few second I don't get any run on whatsoever.
How do I fix this?�
I've checked cylinders for coking etc, they're clean as can be.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2024-04-11 09:02 AM by Philip8794.
My 66 MGB Roadster runs on - Buuuuuut here's the catch
If I drive it for maybe 15 mins on normal roads - mostly straight - at around 60kmh slowing down and accelerating for traffic as I go, and then pull over, wait 10s and shut her off, she runs on mildly. Now, If I drive for 30 minutes or more, and drive her "hard" (run it up to 4.5k or somewhere around there) and then pull up and shut it off nice and hot, also waiting a few second I don't get any run on whatsoever.
How do I fix this?�
I've checked cylinders for coking etc, they're clean as can be.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2024-04-11 09:02 AM by Philip8794.
Apr 11, 2024 10:10 AM
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Most likely the fuel. Do they have Ethanol in the gasoline in Switzerland?
I had similar issues, and tried adding Lucas Octane Booster and it cured the run-on. Give it a shot and see (or any similar product in your locale)
My 1958 MGA is not a car, it's a CAREER..!! ...
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2024-04-11 10:18 AM by Ahmed.
I had similar issues, and tried adding Lucas Octane Booster and it cured the run-on. Give it a shot and see (or any similar product in your locale)
My 1958 MGA is not a car, it's a CAREER..!! ...
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2024-04-11 10:18 AM by Ahmed.
Philip8794
Philip Schmid
Zurich, Switzerland
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Apr 12, 2024 12:44 AM
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Apr 12, 2024 07:26 AM
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If idling helps create more heat that causes run-on, this is a mixture problem - either the wrong needles or a small adjustment away from ideal. Try adjusting the mixture 1 flat richer per day to see if it improves. Fuel is a coolant that quenches the hot spots that cause run-on.
More base timing can also help. The higher your timing is at idle, the further closed your throttle plates will be to maintain the same idle speed. Less air coming into the carbs also reduces its ability to run-on. 14 BTDC at idle should be enough.
jeff@advanceddistributors.com
More base timing can also help. The higher your timing is at idle, the further closed your throttle plates will be to maintain the same idle speed. Less air coming into the carbs also reduces its ability to run-on. 14 BTDC at idle should be enough.
jeff@advanceddistributors.com
Watauga thanked B-racer for this post
Philip8794
Philip Schmid
Zurich, Switzerland
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Apr 12, 2024 08:32 AM
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Hey Jeff, thanks a lot for the info!!
I thought that advancing timing makes run on worse, no?
I'll try making it a tad richer and see what happens...
There shouldn't be many, if any hot spots due to coking, I checked the pistons and they were about as clean as can be.
Currently my idle sits at approx. 800rpm, since much lower than that and the ignition lamp comes on.
I swapped condenser, points, rotors, plugs and leads recently, which made it a little better but it still does it from time to time.
Could it be that a slightly bad coil causes it? It runs perfectly after 1000rpm, no hiccups no nothing but doesn't sound perfectly uniform at idle, but pretty close.
What would you recommend first, richer or more advance?
I thought that advancing timing makes run on worse, no?
I'll try making it a tad richer and see what happens...
There shouldn't be many, if any hot spots due to coking, I checked the pistons and they were about as clean as can be.
Currently my idle sits at approx. 800rpm, since much lower than that and the ignition lamp comes on.
I swapped condenser, points, rotors, plugs and leads recently, which made it a little better but it still does it from time to time.
Could it be that a slightly bad coil causes it? It runs perfectly after 1000rpm, no hiccups no nothing but doesn't sound perfectly uniform at idle, but pretty close.
What would you recommend first, richer or more advance?
Apr 12, 2024 05:53 PM
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RAY 67 TOURER
Ray Marloff
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Apr 12, 2024 06:01 PM
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Philip8794
Philip Schmid
Zurich, Switzerland
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Apr 12, 2024 06:35 PM
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RAY 67 TOURER
Ray Marloff
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Apr 13, 2024 03:56 AM
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Philip, It's not a build up of carbon issue, but a spot in the combustion chamber that comes to a sharp point and glows hot enough to detonate the fuel mixture on its own. The later heads had this sharp edge removed from them during production. RAY
Philip8794
Philip Schmid
Zurich, Switzerland
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Apr 13, 2024 05:56 AM
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Apr 13, 2024 05:59 AM
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Ignition timing also affects run on. If I set my timing at 13` BTDC at 1 000rpm - the spec for my engine, it runs on badly. If I set it at about 10-11`BTDC and allow it to isle for about a minure, it does not.
Remember that these engines were designed for 98 Octane (RON) when they were built.
Remember that these engines were designed for 98 Octane (RON) when they were built.
Watauga thanked Brazzle99 for this post
Apr 13, 2024 11:06 AM
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In reply to # 4784059 by Philip8794
Hey Jeff, thanks a lot for the info!!
I thought that advancing timing makes run on worse, no?
I'll try making it a tad richer and see what happens...
There shouldn't be many, if any hot spots due to coking, I checked the pistons and they were about as clean as can be.
Currently my idle sits at approx. 800rpm, since much lower than that and the ignition lamp comes on.
I swapped condenser, points, rotors, plugs and leads recently, which made it a little better but it still does it from time to time.
Could it be that a slightly bad coil causes it? It runs perfectly after 1000rpm, no hiccups no nothing but doesn't sound perfectly uniform at idle, but pretty close.
What would you recommend first, richer or more advance?
I thought that advancing timing makes run on worse, no?
I'll try making it a tad richer and see what happens...
There shouldn't be many, if any hot spots due to coking, I checked the pistons and they were about as clean as can be.
Currently my idle sits at approx. 800rpm, since much lower than that and the ignition lamp comes on.
I swapped condenser, points, rotors, plugs and leads recently, which made it a little better but it still does it from time to time.
Could it be that a slightly bad coil causes it? It runs perfectly after 1000rpm, no hiccups no nothing but doesn't sound perfectly uniform at idle, but pretty close.
What would you recommend first, richer or more advance?
Richer first. That should help the most. Then more timing AND richer hand in hand. I stand by my first post word for word.
Hot spots are caused by sharp metal - the top edge of the combustion chamber, sharp edges on anything from the plug electrode to the valves. It doesn't have to be carbon. A clean combustion chamber indicates its a bit lean. Add fuel.
jeff@advanceddistributors.com
Philip8794
Philip Schmid
Zurich, Switzerland
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Apr 13, 2024 11:33 AM
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Added two flats and a degree of timing advance. Runs okay-ish, wasn't run on seems to have gotten better, but traffic while hot out is really hard on it - rough idle and wants to die along with 95° C water temp. Any idea how to solve that? I'll go ahead and give it another degree of advance and 1 flat of fuel later today.
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