MGB & GT Forum

Have a set of flare wrenches and the front union and flexi lock nut came undone 9/16 AF but used 14 mm. The problem is the rear of the flexi will not budge in the 3 way union. Read all should be 9/16 but had to use 15 mm, the hex not that rusty.
Is there any way to remove without undoing the other pipes, cutting the hose which would allow removal if can be got off the bracket. THE YHe

May need to soak for several hours-days with a rust solvent. Probably dissimilar metal corrosion.

I have experienced replacement hoses that appear to require metric wrenches, it happens. Use whatever fits the best.

You may be able to cut the hose off and use a deep socket on an impact wrench. Just take not to mangle the hardlines.

A battery powered 1/2" impact wrench is a great thing for old parts.

Melvyn - you may want to mark on of your posts as solved - or kill it - as you have duplicate threads.

Best regards,

Jeff

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Jeffrey W. Delk
Hartwell. Georgia USA
1950 MGTD #2301
1954 MGTF 1500 #7673
1957 MGA
1971 MGB Tourer

Attached is a pic. The hard pipes are copper, 3 way looks to be brass, the left union nut brass, the right one on longer pipe steel. If I cannot shift the flexi hose will have to try the pipe unions but then cannot see how to get the 3 way off the bracket. There is a nut on the 3 way is this on a stud welded to the bracket. The bracket then looks to be attached by nut and bolt to another bracket which also carries the handbrake cable.

Something similar happened to me once on a similar construction: the coupling between the high oilpressure braided hose from the engine to a junction piece that converts to the thinner line on the oil pressure gauge. The thin side could be loosened and with the junction piece in a vise the hose could be removed. Because of the high forces I had to exert I renewed not only this hose but also the junction piece, maybe this was not necessary.

Now to this threeway joint with similar challenges: I once managed to loosen this brake hose with a precisely fitting spanner. Probably also by using a metric size*). This was before I had bought a set of line wrenches as the better tool whilst holding the junction piece fixed against turning (picture). But IF it would not have budged I would have loosened the thinner lines at the sides and would've removed the junction piece and hose combined. This removal could be achieved by loosening the nut holding it to the stud on the mounting strip or by loosening the bolt holding this mount to the rear axle housing. With both options there is a risk the nut will not give up and either the stud on the strip or at the axle side will break off (think of a similar problem with the nuts on the studs holding the rebound strips). For this I advise grinding or sawing a part of the nut off and will come of for sure
Once the 3 way piece is positioned into a vise the joint on the hose will surely give up and those nuts are easy to find and renew.

PS Garage mechs are not so afraid of using a flame on anything stubborn: they would just put flame to the hose junction is my estimate.
Since the copper washer is still visible by its yellowish color it may well come off under alternating heat by a flame and cold water
Not my cup of tea, I never tried using flames on anything but hard soldering waterpipe unions, so this not MY personal advice

*) PS2 Some hydraulic junctions become rounded off more quickly unless exactly fitting spanners are used and i.c. the junction piece on the thin metal line between the clutch MC and the thick hose towards the SC the size was a slighty widened 11mm, so I sacrified such a spanner for this.
Some parts on the B have now mixtures of metric and Imperial as well: rear brake cylinders still have imperial joints to the metal lines, and so are the bleed nipple mounting holes, but their outside dimensions are now metric instead




Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 2024-04-18 04:32 AM by Donthuis.

You can see how the T piece should attache to the axle by looking at #18 here.

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Mk1: CKD 11/66 first registered 8/5/67; owned since 3/77. 18GB +40 balanced. Peter Burgess BVFR head. Piper 285. 123. FidanzaFW. 4synch c/r box. Lots more as I did a nut and bolt rebuild; finished 2015. Tartan Red.

GT: December '78. VW Golf guards, flush fit front and rear valances. Torana XU1 vents, frenched indicators & Mk1 rear lights. 'Worked' Rover V8 with Monsoon ECU for EFI. GM4L60E, Lokar tiptronic & Quick4 controller. Vintage Air A/C. FC IFS. CCE 4 link rear. Salisbury with Quaife. Jaguar Storm.

Strapped the 3 way union round the axle with a jubilee clip to stop if twisting under the wrench torque and the hose came free.

Congrats...