MGA Forum

Having just replaced the starter switch on my 1957 MGA, I also bought a set of rubber boots (Moss Motors part number 161-900) to cover the two battery cable leads that connect to the starter switch.
The problem I'm having is trying to initially thread the boots down onto the cables as they are absolutely unforgiveable in terms of not wanting to flex enough at the 90-degree angle to allow the cable leads to pass through.
Thinking about using a utility knife to slit them open, not sure where, but doesn't that defeat their purpose? Maybe grease them up a bit?
One would think this would be such a simple task....

I would try hot water followed by dielectric grease. A beer might also help.

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Gary

Murphy's law

Tell a man there are 300 billion stars in the universe, and he'll believe you. Tell him a bench has wet paint on it, and he'll have to touch it to be sure.

hot water perhaps use a wood dowel or other things to pre stretch them some, hot water stretch, next day hot water stretch, and repeat

Gary,

Are you buying???


John

Most likely selling.... not getting better

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Gary

Murphy's law

Tell a man there are 300 billion stars in the universe, and he'll believe you. Tell him a bench has wet paint on it, and he'll have to touch it to be sure.

I cut the boot down a little bit (where it covers the electrical connection) so that it wouldnt flex as much and crack.

Everett,

First off, I am going to cut your problem in half because there was only one boot used at the starter switch and not two!

There was no boot from the starter switch to the starter.

As far as sliding the boot onto the cable, I do not recall a problem except that I used silicone grease to do so.

Take a look at the boot in my picture and compare it to what you purchased from Moss.

I am going to bet that they sold you improperly sized boot as compared to mine (correct).

Cecelia sells the correct boot.

A few pictures, Don

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Look sharply after your own thoughts. They come unlooked for, like the morning dove upon your window sill, and, if you turn to your usual task, disappear; and you shall never find that perception again; never, I say-but perhaps years, ages, and I know not what events and worlds my lie between you and its return.

Ralph Waldo Emerson

Try Armor-All as a lubricant. It’s worked well for me in the past.

Jim

Don,
Even though the illustration in the SPL only shows one boot (part 8G548), the list indicates that 2 are required.

Jim

Hello Don,
Interesting that there is no boot required from the starter switch to the starter motor. May I ask why?
Your boot and my boot are definitely of two different shapes.
Your photos look like there are two pieces of rubber between the nut, washer and cable end and the starter switch body. Again why? I'm always interested in minor but useful adjustments on these cars.
Finally, who is Cecilia, an MGA parts dealer? If so please post her website as I'm pretty new to the MGA ownership experience.

Everett,

Cecelia is the proprietor of Scarborough Faire, your best source for MGA parts in the world. If I could count on one hand and losing a few fingers, she is also one of the most knowledgeable MGA experts in the world. She does not host a website, but she offers an excellent catalog and great phone service. She would be happy to confirm with you that the starter switch only had one boot and provide you with the correct shaped boot.

Regarding my boot versus yours: Since you have not provided any pictures, I will leave it at that . . .that mine is of the proper shape.

You said: "Interesting that there is no boot required from the starter switch to the starter motor. May I ask why?" Answer: One side of the starter switch is wired direct to the battery and is always live and hence the boot, the other is not live and therefore no boot is required.

As far as the Lucas #76701 starter switch is concerned, the original switches were with the black pads that you see below the hex nuts since the base below was conductive and not the nylon plastic that superseded this original design for the later Lucas switches and the reproductions. Note that some reproductions being supplied today do have these pads to emulate original design intent, but not function.

Speaking of the currently available reproductions (some all?) being supplied today, they are frankly crap with many reported failures. https://mgaguru.com/mgtech/faulty/ft004.htm

Note that NOS #76701 Lucas starter switches do come up on E-bay from time to time for about $70-$85. To me, a cheap investment you look at it as a factor of longevity, total cost.

I also heard the the switch that Cecelia is currently offering has good reports. Personally, within my MGA community, I have heard of no failures.

Jim Cheatham made a comment that the SPL specified two boots. My comment to that is that the other boot was located at the starter motor end and not the starter switch end.

Don

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Look sharply after your own thoughts. They come unlooked for, like the morning dove upon your window sill, and, if you turn to your usual task, disappear; and you shall never find that perception again; never, I say-but perhaps years, ages, and I know not what events and worlds my lie between you and its return.

Ralph Waldo Emerson



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2024-04-13 10:22 AM by Don MGA 1600.

Don,
Here is a photo of my Moss Motors rubber starter switch boot. Defiantly not shaped like yours.
Please address the two flat rubber pieces up against your starter switch pos/neg posts.
Is your MGA still positive earth?

Per Don's commentary here's a pic of an original replacement switch made in 1964 with the nylon plastic insulator. This one is sitting on the shelf as the replacement when the new one I have goes bad.

Those are insulating rubber for the terminals and ar part of the original starter switch.

Everett,

Regarding the rubber pads on the starter switch, I have already addressed this to you.

Below is a somewhat modified excerpt from my previous posting:

" As far as the Lucas #76701 starter switch is concerned, the original switches were supplied with the black pads that you see below the hex nuts because the original switch base below the pads was conductive. Lucas later superseded the conductive base with nylon plastic that eliminated the need for the rubber pads. Note that some reproductions being supplied today do have these rubber pads to emulate original design intent, but not function."

Not that it has anything to do with this topic, but to address your question: My MGA is positive ground.

Don

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Look sharply after your own thoughts. They come unlooked for, like the morning dove upon your window sill, and, if you turn to your usual task, disappear; and you shall never find that perception again; never, I say-but perhaps years, ages, and I know not what events and worlds my lie between you and its return.

Ralph Waldo Emerson