T-Series & Prewar Forum

Well... a year or so ago I thought I had a good start on reassembly of the pedal shaft on the TF. Moved on to other tasks and never completed the final steps and now I'm reading a lot of posts on assembly and realizing the "should do" steps that I missed - removing the MC to get the return spring in, checking that new bushings aren't to long (brake bushing adds at least a 1/16", using the original spacers instead of new (how much needs to be taken off?). Now I'm trying to fit the circlip and there's just no way since the shaft doesn't extend beyond the frame. Fortunately, still working on a bare chassis so access isn't a problem, Just have to take it all apart and do it right.

Big lesson for anyone starting on this task - read and reread the posts. Take notes and make a checklist so you can tick off the boxes!!

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Bob Scardamalia
Albany, NY
'63 MGB #4754
'69 MGB-GT #180279
'54 MG-TF #2259
'54 MGTF #2259



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2024-04-22 12:05 PM by RobertsMGB.

Bob,

Did you remove the extra width from the brake bushing? Also check the make sure that the frame bushings are flush with the outer and inner surface of the chassis frame rail.

I’m not sure how much thicker the new spacer washers are - but the difference is significant. I take it that you do not have originals.

I would have those milled down then install and check for clearance at the circlip groove.

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Jeffrey W. Delk
Hartwell. Georgia USA
1950 MGTD #2301
1954 MGTF 1500 #7673
1957 MGA
1971 MGB Tourer

Thanks Jeff. I'll have to do some digging to see if I still have the original spacers. The bushing on the brake pedal definitely needs trimmed. That in itself might be enough to get the circlip on but I'll do more checking before final assembly.

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Bob Scardamalia
Albany, NY
'63 MGB #4754
'69 MGB-GT #180279
'54 MG-TF #2259
'54 MGTF #2259

Be sure to do a test assembly of the clutch arm, spacers, and brake arm ON YOUR BENCH before attempting to reassemble in the frame. Sand down the woodruff key for the clutch arm so that it is an easy finger-press fit into the half-moon groove. Gently spread apart the arms of the clutch pedal arm with a wedge/chisel or drift so that it easily slides onto the new shaft and woodruff key. None of the bushes should need reaming out.

Did you have your pedal shaft modified to add lubrication grooves and outlet openings?

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Jeffrey W. Delk
Hartwell. Georgia USA
1950 MGTD #2301
1954 MGTF 1500 #7673
1957 MGA
1971 MGB Tourer



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2024-04-21 07:19 PM by AbingdonNerd.

Modifying the shaft for lubrication was the one smart thing that I did. Have also sanded down the key. Everything went together nicely - except all the steps I didn't do!!

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Bob Scardamalia
Albany, NY
'63 MGB #4754
'69 MGB-GT #180279
'54 MG-TF #2259
'54 MGTF #2259

Dismantled the pedal shaft this morning. Pics show the brake pedal bushing extending beyond on both sides. Should these be shaved flush with the pedal? I don't have the original spacers and wondering if shaving the bushings will be sufficient or if I should sand down the spacers also.

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Bob Scardamalia
Albany, NY
'63 MGB #4754
'69 MGB-GT #180279
'54 MG-TF #2259
'54 MGTF #2259

Bob,
You can test assemble the brake and clutch arms to the new shaft and check your clearance on the washers that sit on both sides of the brake arm. Test fit the bolt the runs through the clutch arm - it must align with the relief in the new shaft.

Just mock everything up and that will show you how much to remove from the washers. Run them to a machine shop if needed - and have them milled. The brake bushing doesn’t look too bad - but wet sand those down on an even surface - or grind and then finish off with wet sanding

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Jeffrey W. Delk
Hartwell. Georgia USA
1950 MGTD #2301
1954 MGTF 1500 #7673
1957 MGA
1971 MGB Tourer

Brake bushing must be flush or slightly below the steel. Way too wide. George

After saying I didn't have my originals, I discovered that I did have a spare assembly, complete with spacers! I've cleaned it all up and I'm amazed that the original spacers measure 0.079 compared to the new ones at 0.108. That's a BIG difference! With a pair of original spacers and some milling of the bushings, I think I'll be in good shape.

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Bob Scardamalia
Albany, NY
'63 MGB #4754
'69 MGB-GT #180279
'54 MG-TF #2259
'54 MGTF #2259

I'm in the camp of "leave them as they are" . I would prefer a bit of bronze protruding to work against the steel washer and not the cast arm myself.

That is a good point, never thought of that. Long term would be better to have thrust washer touching the bush. So thin the washers. George

On a test fit with the newly found original size spacers, I have enough shaft clearance to get the circlip on without taking material off the bushings. I think I'll go with it this way. NOW, I'm looking for what magic it takes to get the brake pedal spring on!! Spent a half hour with various pliers and I still haven't gotten it on to the clip in the box let alone onto the pedal. Read and reread Bill Chaser's suggestion and can't see how to maneuver the spring - without bending the ends a little straighter.

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Bob Scardamalia
Albany, NY
'63 MGB #4754
'69 MGB-GT #180279
'54 MG-TF #2259
'54 MGTF #2259

If it is a new spring, you will likely need to modify as you thought. Have to get one end on first, whichever will be the most difficult. George

Yes, it's a new one. Toss up of which end will be more difficult!

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Bob Scardamalia
Albany, NY
'63 MGB #4754
'69 MGB-GT #180279
'54 MG-TF #2259
'54 MGTF #2259

Bob, attaching the brake pedal return spring can be hard or easy. I prefer easy. Hook spring to pedal box hole and then attach to brake pedal. Leave assy. sit in box. Insert pedal shaft into brake pedal and then add clutch pedal. Make sure spacer washers have been installed along with pedal arms. Once these are in, use clutch pedal to help guide shaft into chassis bushings. . Push shaft home. Make sure the master cylinder clevis is around the brake pedal arm before you install shaft into the chassis.
Robert