MGB & GT Forum
Order of assembly sill replacement
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Terrace, Canada
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Hello,
Replacing entire sill assembly and need guidance on what goes where. Chopped everything out 6 months ago and didn’t take good notes (other side is destroyed by POs body man in the 1990s).
Behind the door where the sill curves up (see photo) does the outer sill sit in the pocket at the bottom of inner quarter panel (HZA587) beside membrane or does it sit outside of these pieces?
I’ve sent a pair of photos as references.
Also, didn’t take a good measurement where the inner sill sits on the firewall (another photo). Can someone measure their car at the farthest point forward and send the length from inner edge of sill to tunnel?
Thanks
Replacing entire sill assembly and need guidance on what goes where. Chopped everything out 6 months ago and didn’t take good notes (other side is destroyed by POs body man in the 1990s).
Behind the door where the sill curves up (see photo) does the outer sill sit in the pocket at the bottom of inner quarter panel (HZA587) beside membrane or does it sit outside of these pieces?
I’ve sent a pair of photos as references.
Also, didn’t take a good measurement where the inner sill sits on the firewall (another photo). Can someone measure their car at the farthest point forward and send the length from inner edge of sill to tunnel?
Thanks
Attachments:
IMG_4530.jpeg 63.7 KB
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Apr 21, 2024 06:37 PM
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 Joined 7 years ago
687 Posts
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Eric,with inner sill in place,install membrane then outer sill,just tach weld membrane and dry fit outer sill and check door gaps.Wings need to be off to fit outer sill,it goes up to the pillar.Do final welds after you are satisfied with gaps.Are you installing new jacking points also?
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20200508_120306.jpg 45.7 KB
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Apr 21, 2024 07:00 PM
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Joined 17 years ago
18,565 Posts
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Did a search for this task and found this great image to show how the rear dogleg area is assembled. The panel you show in your phone pic is the outermost layer.
There is no real elegant way to weld the parts stack back in place. I drill a hole through the entire stack and get an assistant to hold a piece of copper over the outside over the hole. Then I do a spot weld from inside with the heat turned up quite high. This works ok most of the time, ( you want to practice this on the bench) but I still end up having to do some touch up from the outside if needed. I also do some stitch welding of the outer sill to the lower edge of the side panel you posted just cause it wont hurt.
Apropos of nothing asked in the original post, but i will mention that one of the best things I ever did to make this work easier was to buy a set of "cheater" lenses to put inside my welding helmet. They are like $10 and can change your welding world.
There is no real elegant way to weld the parts stack back in place. I drill a hole through the entire stack and get an assistant to hold a piece of copper over the outside over the hole. Then I do a spot weld from inside with the heat turned up quite high. This works ok most of the time, ( you want to practice this on the bench) but I still end up having to do some touch up from the outside if needed. I also do some stitch welding of the outer sill to the lower edge of the side panel you posted just cause it wont hurt.
Apropos of nothing asked in the original post, but i will mention that one of the best things I ever did to make this work easier was to buy a set of "cheater" lenses to put inside my welding helmet. They are like $10 and can change your welding world.
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Terrace, Canada
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Terrace, Canada
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Apr 21, 2024 09:18 PM
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Joined 17 years ago
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Is this the measurement you need? Red arrow?
I can take a measurement of the one I have in progress. Will be in the shop tomorrow.
I can take a measurement of the one I have in progress. Will be in the shop tomorrow.
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Terrace, Canada
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Terrace, Canada
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 Ninderry, KabiKabi country, Queensland, Australia
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Apr 22, 2024 03:37 AM
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Joined 13 years ago
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Apr 22, 2024 10:22 AM
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Joined 17 years ago
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Here are the pics I believe you want. I used two pieces of tin to telescope across the gap as shown. The measurements were taken with the measuring stick level and as far forward as I could get
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Terrace, Canada
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Apr 22, 2024 02:40 PM
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Joined 17 years ago
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In reply to # 4788073 by 1971
Perfect thanks,
Should have her on the road in 3-20 years!!
Should have her on the road in 3-20 years!!
Nah...you are only like 60 hours of labour from where you are to this:
Should be driving by june!
By the way, if you have not bought floor pans yet, I can recommend the ones made by Royal Restorations just down the road from me. This was the first time I have ever used them after years of "Heritage or bust" and have to say they are well made.
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Sudbury, MA, USA
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about to get started on a 1972 MG B sill and floor replacement project and i am looking for any advice i can get! i would appreciate good advice but will listen to bad as well 
somone has panel sealed street signs onto the floors and i have no idea as to how to get this stuff off without destroying the metal i need. thanks for all your help! peter max
somone has panel sealed street signs onto the floors and i have no idea as to how to get this stuff off without destroying the metal i need. thanks for all your help! peter max|
Apr 22, 2024 08:49 PM
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Joined 17 years ago
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In reply to # 4787846 by MGB567
If Peter mentioned this then ignore my post. If you lay the outer sills side by side you'll see a slight difference where they go under the guard which you may want to rectify before installation. This discrepancy has been discussed often and not that long ago.
Since I am a visual learnerm here are some pics to explain what Barrie is saying
The LH side outer sill is too short. Best solution is to but it up where it belongs at the rear, This sill leave a gap up front that can be dressed with a hammer.
Leaving you with this issue where the outer sill swage does not line up with the leading edge of the door, Not ideal
So you cut, trim, grind, fit ,curve and weld a bit of flat-bar to fill the gap. I do a couple of spot-welds from the inside
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