MG Midget Forum
Midget Quits While Driving
Posted by Swede334
Topic Creator (OP)
Apr 12, 2024 08:57 AM
Joined 21 days ago
2 Posts
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JAMADOR
John Amador
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Apr 12, 2024 09:00 AM
Top Contributor
Joined 1 year ago
1,006 Posts
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Probably need a bit more detail for anyone to give any insight.
Those 2 would be completely different drivetrains
Both stock? Any modifications? What symptoms did they exhibit when they 'quit running'?
In my case, I have a fuel boil issue on hot days in my 75 1500
Exhibits a bucking behavior then dies due to ingesting vapor rather than liquid gasoline.
1975 MG Midget 1500 - Midge
Work in Progress
Those 2 would be completely different drivetrains
Both stock? Any modifications? What symptoms did they exhibit when they 'quit running'?
In my case, I have a fuel boil issue on hot days in my 75 1500
Exhibits a bucking behavior then dies due to ingesting vapor rather than liquid gasoline.
1975 MG Midget 1500 - Midge
Work in Progress
Topic Creator (OP)
Apr 12, 2024 09:30 AM
Joined 21 days ago
2 Posts
|
Both stock? Yes
Any modifications? No
What symptoms did they exhibit when they 'quit running'? Both exhibited "bucking" and then dies.
In my case, I have a fuel boil issue on hot days in my 75 1500
Exhibits a bucking behavior then dies due to ingesting vapor rather than liquid gasoline. How do you prevent vapor lock in these guys?
Any modifications? No
What symptoms did they exhibit when they 'quit running'? Both exhibited "bucking" and then dies.
In my case, I have a fuel boil issue on hot days in my 75 1500
Exhibits a bucking behavior then dies due to ingesting vapor rather than liquid gasoline. How do you prevent vapor lock in these guys?
JAMADOR
John Amador
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Apr 12, 2024 09:42 AM
Top Contributor
Joined 1 year ago
1,006 Posts
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If yours is similar to mine & you're getting vapor lock on the 1500, seems an electric fuel pump is the recommendation here. I'm planning on a Facet, just need some time/$ to order & get it done.
Mine has only really exhibited it on quite warm days. No issue when it's cold out.
I'm also planning on adding a crankcase vent on the mechanical fuel pump blanking plate, hoping that solves my oil leak, which seems quite common on Weber [or most non SU/ZS carb] equipped 1500s.
1975 MG Midget 1500 - Midge
Work in Progress
Mine has only really exhibited it on quite warm days. No issue when it's cold out.
I'm also planning on adding a crankcase vent on the mechanical fuel pump blanking plate, hoping that solves my oil leak, which seems quite common on Weber [or most non SU/ZS carb] equipped 1500s.
1975 MG Midget 1500 - Midge
Work in Progress
FredMGBLE1980
Fred G
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Apr 12, 2024 11:36 AM
Joined 4 years ago
1 Posts
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Apr 12, 2024 12:13 PM
Top Contributor
Joined 17 years ago
20,025 Posts
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First, figure out if you're losing fuel or spark. Its one or the other. Otherwise the list of possibilities is infinite. If you haven't replaced the cap, rotor, plugs, and wires in a while I'd start there. Check timing while you're at it and verify the vacuum advance holds a vacuum indefinitely.
jeff@advanceddistributors.com
jeff@advanceddistributors.com
Apr 12, 2024 03:23 PM
Joined 8 years ago
264 Posts
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opieshuffle
Chris Elkerton
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Apr 12, 2024 03:46 PM
Joined 10 years ago
135 Posts
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For me it happened twice:
1. Vapor lock
2. Manual fuel pump just stopped pumping mid trip. Whacked it a few times. Got me home. (simple check by pulling the gas line at the carb(s) and seeing if fuel comes out when you turn it over)
What I've done to deal with those:
1. Made my own heat shield.
2. Bought and installed a Facet electric fuel pump, which allowed me to re-route the fuel lines so they go straight to the carbs (twin SUs) bypassing all the engine heat by not needing to go to the pump and back to the carb.
C
1. Vapor lock
2. Manual fuel pump just stopped pumping mid trip. Whacked it a few times. Got me home. (simple check by pulling the gas line at the carb(s) and seeing if fuel comes out when you turn it over)
What I've done to deal with those:
1. Made my own heat shield.
2. Bought and installed a Facet electric fuel pump, which allowed me to re-route the fuel lines so they go straight to the carbs (twin SUs) bypassing all the engine heat by not needing to go to the pump and back to the carb.
C
JAMADOR thanked opieshuffle for this post
TikiCricket
Auggie A
Cambridge, MD, USA
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Apr 13, 2024 07:24 AM
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Joined 2 years ago
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about 1 week and 21 minutes later...
Apr 20, 2024 07:45 AM
Joined 14 years ago
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old guy
bob k
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Apr 20, 2024 12:37 PM
Joined 12 years ago
119 Posts
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My 1500 motor would stop on the road and would start again before I could find the problem. Didn.t even have a chance to check any thing. It reminded me of a CJ I had and they both were the electronic ignition. Both drove me nuts trying to find it out, soo I am a slow learner, but I did learn so on my TR7 I just put points in right off.
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Apr 20, 2024 04:23 PM
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Joined 11 years ago
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Hi, I had the same “boiled” gas issue in my 76 right after w bought new. The MG dealer gave me a carb heat deflector that mounts under the carb that was standard on 77 - 79 cars; they have Cat converters, my 76 does not. Haven’t had that issue since.
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Apr 20, 2024 05:41 PM
Top Contributor
Joined 11 years ago
1,191 Posts
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Hi, I had the same “boiled” gas issue in my 76 right after w bought new. The MG dealer gave me a carb heat deflector that mounts under the carb that was standard on 77 - 79 cars; they have Cat converters, my 76 does not. Haven’t had that issue since.
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