T-Series & Prewar Forum

Hi , I have replaced the LHD sloppy clutch - brake pedal shaft + new bush spacers etc (after cutting away some of the protective box welded to the chassis rail ) but the problem remains.
Depressing the clutch pedal results in no clutch disengagement, no feel and no pedal movement once the pedal reaches something solid inside the bell housing.
Now despite me being careful could this be a result of mounting the clutch driven plate with the 'flywheel side' mounted facing gearbox side Resulting in the release bearing hitting the driven plate shaft hub first i.e solid
Thus preventing the release bearing (throw out brg) to operate the clutch ? - Its a 8" clutch operating a type nine 5 speed gearbox

I am not an expert on gearbox changes, but perhaps a bit more info will help up sort it out. Was it working (although sloppy clutch mechanism) before changing the gearbox (and clutch bits)? If it was working before all the work began, then it sounds like it may be in the assembly of your clutch driven plate (as you have indicated as a possibility). I don't know what comes with the 5 speed transmission, so, I don't know, but the clutch plate is clearly marked as to which side faces the engine (flatter side). We assume that the new parts did not sit for a long time assembled in a damp environment where the driven plate could stick to the flywheel.
It has occurred on some transmissions where the fork comes loose from the shaft (broken securing pin), but this was probably looked at before assembly.
I have never looked at this, but perhaps removing the inspection cover on the bell housing and having a help depress the clutch pedal one may be able to see what is happening inside the bell housing with the throw out bearing.

The engine had been seperated from the gearbox , it has a HiGear bell housing mated to a Ford type 9 gearbox and a type 9 driven plate fitted to the gearbox splined shaft. It was working ok before the engine removal - I cant remember now If I removed the clutch from the flywheel I may have done as I had to replace the broken crankshaft. Don't ask !
The throw out bearing (release bearing) did not originally have the curly springs fitted to the pivots , the cluch worked fine albeit with a sloppy pedal , The springs are now fitted.
I have fitted a replacement pedal shaft , new brake bearing , spacers, key and circlip .(what a job that was , involved cutting the old shaft to remove it ) All refitted then.....
Tried the clutch and the pedal when pushed moves, then stops moving as if it comes up against a brick wall - with no clutch operation.
I am annoyed because I spent 29 years working at Borg & Beck Clutch co last century - I should know what I am doing !!!!



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2024-04-13 08:13 AM by Alan PJones.

Have someone push the peddle as you watch the swing from underneath. It’s possible that the arm in the box is hitting the peddle stop and you’ll need to reposition the stop. It’s also possible the the shaft you replaced in your peddle box may not have been clocked correctly with the keyway. Check all your pivot points for excessive wear at the clevises and arms. How much free peddle do you have presently? Make sure you have the correct free peddle. Free peddle doesn’t mean slop in the linkage pieces due to wear. If you had installed the disc backwards the spring hub would be binding on the flywheel and wouldn’t release even though you could completely depress the peddle. Another words it wouldn’t affect the pressure plate movement but it would prevent disengagement nonetheless.

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Bill Chasser
TD-4834
TD-5779
TD/c-8151
TD/c-16920
TD-19408
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TF-8200