MGA Forum

I am restoring my MGA and am currently working on the rear suspension. My questions are about painting parts, such as the brake drums, and u-bolts and shackle plates for springs.
I have read numerous posts on this site and have formed the following conclusion.
Please let me know your thoughts about my conclusions. Thanks in advance!

PREPARATION
Wire brushing is adequate, so long as all the old paint is removed, and so long as it’s down to bare metal.
Many posts referred to sandblasting, wire brushing, sandpapering, etc.

PREPARATION - CLEANING
Is it assumed the surface is cleaned with some sort of solvent?
If so, what is the best, economical solvent?
Only one post mentioned cleaning the surface. “Then clean the surface with a good painting prep solvent ….”

TO PRIME OR NOT
A primer is required.
My brake drums had remnants of grey paint. Am I correct to assume this was a factory undercoat?

Only one of the posts I read directly answered this question. One post said: Then … spray on DupliColor's 500 Degree Gray Engine Primer (Roughly $5 for a 12 oz. aerosol).
However, most other posts said they applied the paint without mentioning priming.

PAINT TYPE – HEAT
It seems best to user a primer and top coat that can withstand 400 degrees Fahrenheit (approx. 200 Celsius).

PAINT TYPE – APPLICATION
It’s best to spray. I assume the heat resistant paints are mostly economically available as pressure packs?

Most posts refer to spraying, but do not indicate if this using a spray can or gun.

PAINT TYPE – BRAND
I would need to find the Australian Equivalent of Duplicolor, Plasti-kote, etc.

Nicholas. I powder coat everything that was originally black, and cad plate wearing parts such as shackels, boot/bonnet pull rods and stays, locking parts etc. It is pointless painting these items, as the paint gets marked from all the movement. I also powder coat the chassis and engine bay firewall to cabin plate. Forget to mention that the rear brake drums are painted with black heat resistant paint.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2024-04-11 03:48 AM by mgainaussie.

I'm no big expert, but if your surface is at all rust pitted, you need to kill that rust deep in the pits or the rust will continue under the paint. I used a phosphoric based product from Eastwood and then a degreaser, but I think they changed the product somewhat (combined them) and it is now called Eastwood "After Blast Metal Prep". POR -15 also has a similar product to what I used called POR-15 "Metal Etch". They also sell a degreaser to go with it. I usually do the metal etch with a Scotch-Brite pad to make sure it gets down into the deep rust. I've seen similar products in the Advanced Auto stores.

Primers are used to enhance paint adhesion. Self etching primers are good for sure.

I am not sure if the heat rating is necessary

Cleaning parts with a paint prep soloution is always a great idea. You can buy this at a home hardware store or an auto parts store I will find a link

https://www.amazon.com/VHT-CM541-Grease-Wax-Remover/dp/B00QSP0PDI/ref=asc_df_B00QSP0PDI/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241952584952&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14838275245627007485&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9008168&hvtargid=pla-568989220510&psc=1&mcid=cd1f65ec63673ea388d3ea236db5ccc6&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsNORuY-6hQMVgEpHAR1ViQkXEAQYBCABEgJscvD_BwE



Mostly the paints I use for this are something like Duplicolor cast iron, there is way too much black on the MGA and these are spray cans

https://www.amazon.com/VHT-SP997-Engine-Enamel-Nu-Cast/dp/B000CPCRRW/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?crid=7EEOFM43Z4TD&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.lPPqp5mNDLVx7htVRwczAJDeZTnoXTa8zDJKgK5SCsr5f1k2-Z6fJBz3C7k3eE0TL6ZIIvI3PsS_GzomoCQEe1nOV_10TYegT3WBpmSemqHvJwfD8V-Ob2xEcD95UdXlpyXf-_TZ5YKeEMYWAG4es97aO_tZkaXQUEbnJZTcTyhef_vCoYKaMs69NC3km9-b11C85SYFjvQyT055wbgOjg.X1McXdep5QGfz5uoCkkWm7aLKY3SW7wZrcNJFhFufFQ&dib_tag=se&keywords=spray+cast+iron+duplicolor&qid=1712837340&sprefix=spray+cast+iron+fuplivolor%2Caps%2C143&sr=8-5

I think your conclusions are reasonable, I don’t worry about the heat rating to much for suspension parts and some heat rating paints need to be heat cured



Edited 4 time(s). Last edit at 2024-04-11 07:11 AM by bobs77vet.

Self etching primers are really ancient technology.

In my experience these days they have very limited uses.

Proper prep, rust converters and 2k primers are good tools. In my opinion priming chassis components is just not needed with all these superior products. Por15 is a fantastic product.

This is self etching primer that I really like

https://www.duplicolor.com/product/self-etching-primer/

Thank you so much for your thoughts. Regards, Nick.

Thank you. I will also take this into consideration. Regards, Nick.

Thanks Bob, for your thoughts and thank you for the links you provided. Both are very helpful. Cheers, Nick

Thanks Todd for your thoughts. It is appreciated. Regards, Nick

Thanks Bob.
Cheers, Nick

Hi Nick, I just painted my MGA rear axle parts.

PREPARATION
Wire wheel brushing is OK, grit blast if there is any deep rust pits that the wire won't clean up.

PREPARATION - CLEANING
If you take an empty 4 liter container into Body Shop Paint Supplies (Unit 5/131 Fyans St, South Geelong VIC 3220) they will fill it for you with Wax & Grease Remover for around $15.

TO PRIME OR NOT
I use White Knight Rust Guard All Purpose Primer, Red Oxide colour, From Bunnings. This is enamel paint.

PAINT TYPE – HEAT
I don't find that high heat paint is required for the brake drums. White Knight Rust Guard Epoxy Enamel is fine. Available in black gloss or satin finish from Bunnings.

PAINT TYPE – APPLICATION
I use pressure packs, the White Knight paint is available in cans if you have a compressor and spray gun but I find it less messy to use the pressure packs.

PAINT TYPE – BRAND

As above White Knight which is by PPG, the Duplicolour paint is available from Repco if that's what you decide to use.

Hi Nick
If your MGA is an Australian CKD car, it very likely will have had silver brake drums (black if not CKD). Possibly the grey that you see?
Chris' details are good. My local Bunnings stocks Duplicolor as well as White Knight. I found the nozzles on the cans from White Knight to be unreliable.
If you decide to go down the path of POR15, their products including caliper paint can be purchased online from SAPE in NSW.
Cheers
Greg

Thanks so much Chris for all the information and the details. Muchly appreciated.
Regards Nick

Thanks so much Greg for your extra thoughts.
Cheers, Nick