MGA Forum
Loose but might be best to cut off rusty thread or maybe grind off some threads
Posted by three5bangers
Loose but might be best to cut off rusty thread or maybe grind off some threads
#1
This topic is about my 1962 MG MGA MkII
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three5bangers
Steve M
Valhalla, NY, USA
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Topic Creator (OP)
Apr 30, 2024 05:19 PM
Joined 9 years ago
483 Posts
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Just starting. Got gas tank out, want to remove the straps. To my surprise I could turn the bolts a little but then when I start sucking the rusty threads into the nut or captured nut resistance becomes great and maybe l'll just damage the threads in the captured nut. I have a dremel, I think grinding down the treads might be better than trying to cut off the rusty threads. No? I have experience with dremel cut off wheels. Lots of sparks. Might not have any grinding gizmo in stock.
MG14611
Robert P
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Apr 30, 2024 08:58 PM
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If the threads are deteriorated, you may just need to replace them anyway, perhaps with stainless steel versions.
So if they can be cut off or snapped off, why not do so.
Edit:
BTW I’d be wary of using a hot torch near a fuel tank. Gas fumes and a flame nearby isn’t a good mix!
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2024-04-30 09:01 PM by MG14611.
So if they can be cut off or snapped off, why not do so.
Edit:
BTW I’d be wary of using a hot torch near a fuel tank. Gas fumes and a flame nearby isn’t a good mix!
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2024-04-30 09:01 PM by MG14611.
Apr 30, 2024 10:21 PM
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The gas tank is removed and out of the way, you are talking about the strap bolt into the cross member captive nut?
Grinding away the threads or cutting off the end of the bolt will work fine, you can also wire brush the threads and lubricate them,
I seem to recall I used a longer bolt with a nut on the end because I broke off the captive nut
Grinding away the threads or cutting off the end of the bolt will work fine, you can also wire brush the threads and lubricate them,
I seem to recall I used a longer bolt with a nut on the end because I broke off the captive nut
May 1, 2024 06:39 AM
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Joined 12 years ago
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Kroil is awesome. Man is it getting expensive these days.
If you are in it to win it I would advise buying a real cutoff tool. A dremel is great for small fine work but you need a grinder with a cutoff wheel for nasty rust.
And no I wouldn’t save the bolts…
If you are in it to win it I would advise buying a real cutoff tool. A dremel is great for small fine work but you need a grinder with a cutoff wheel for nasty rust.
And no I wouldn’t save the bolts…
three5bangers
Steve M
Valhalla, NY, USA
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Topic Creator (OP)
May 4, 2024 10:01 PM
Joined 9 years ago
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Thanks guys. Yes, I was talking about the strap bolt into the cross member captive nut. I decided to use a file to remove some of the crusty threads plus some oil and I got the bolts out without ruining the captive nut.
I have a benzomatic torch that takes both the red oxygen and yellow Mapp tanks. I used that on a frozen nut and it was fabulous but the oxygen ran out and the remaining MAPP gas without oxygen seems to burn rich leaving black. Torch time ended early. The red oxygen tanks used to be $10 and now I think they are $16 plus and only have 1.4 oz of oxygen. I think in the past i went through $50 of these quickly. Perhaps a torch designed for MAPP only is the way to go.
Next steps are repainting the underside of the trunk and getting that fill plug out of the differential.
steve
I have a benzomatic torch that takes both the red oxygen and yellow Mapp tanks. I used that on a frozen nut and it was fabulous but the oxygen ran out and the remaining MAPP gas without oxygen seems to burn rich leaving black. Torch time ended early. The red oxygen tanks used to be $10 and now I think they are $16 plus and only have 1.4 oz of oxygen. I think in the past i went through $50 of these quickly. Perhaps a torch designed for MAPP only is the way to go.
Next steps are repainting the underside of the trunk and getting that fill plug out of the differential.
steve
Drewski
William Estaver
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May 4, 2024 10:59 PM
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Wire brush/clean/thread file any accessible threads, and keep hitting them with penetrating oil.
Then repeatedly, and patiently, alternating loosen-tighten-loosen-tighten-loosen right at the point of thread resistance, liberally using penetrating oil. Don't over force rotation. When it binds, stop and loosen again. Repeat.
Sometimes this will gradually clean away the rust fouled threads, and allow extraction.
Afterwards chase the threads in the nut or hole with a tap, and use new fasteners on assembly.
Time consuming, but worth a shot before mauling the bolt or nut.
Chasing and anti-seizing threads throughout the car's fasteners as you encounter them is well worth the time for both reassembly and later tear down.
Then repeatedly, and patiently, alternating loosen-tighten-loosen-tighten-loosen right at the point of thread resistance, liberally using penetrating oil. Don't over force rotation. When it binds, stop and loosen again. Repeat.
Sometimes this will gradually clean away the rust fouled threads, and allow extraction.
Afterwards chase the threads in the nut or hole with a tap, and use new fasteners on assembly.
Time consuming, but worth a shot before mauling the bolt or nut.
Chasing and anti-seizing threads throughout the car's fasteners as you encounter them is well worth the time for both reassembly and later tear down.
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