MGB & GT Forum
Installing SU carbs
Posted by scudrunner
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Apr 29, 2024 02:19 PM
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Is there an easy or less than nearly impossible way to install the lower nuts to the SU carbs? I've removed and reinstalled carbs a few times but always have a great deal of difficulty getting those 2 nuts threaded. Anyone have any tips? My short stubby fingers need a break.
Thanks in advance
Jay in La Marque, Galveston Texas.
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Trust, but Verify
Thanks in advance
Jay in La Marque, Galveston Texas.
In God we Trust. All others bring data.
Trust, but Verify
Apr 29, 2024 02:50 PM
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Using a long extension and a 1/4" drive universal adapter, I remove & install the manifold from the head with the carbs in place. I then can work on the carbs at my workbench.
Eric Russell ~ Mebane, NC
1961 MGA #61, 1981 Alfa Romeo GTV6, 1984 Alfa Romeo Spider, 1991 Honda ST1100
Eric Russell ~ Mebane, NC
1961 MGA #61, 1981 Alfa Romeo GTV6, 1984 Alfa Romeo Spider, 1991 Honda ST1100
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Drewski
William Estaver
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Apr 29, 2024 03:39 PM
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When either installing or removing the carbs, only engage a couple of threads on the top nut, then pull the carb toward you.
This presents the first couple of threads of the bottom stud, and the gap between the lower carb flange and card body is is not filled with the stud end, and more open to allow fingers and nut to navigate the gap.
This presents the first couple of threads of the bottom stud, and the gap between the lower carb flange and card body is is not filled with the stud end, and more open to allow fingers and nut to navigate the gap.
saanich2006
Robert Browning
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Apr 29, 2024 03:48 PM
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Apr 29, 2024 04:54 PM
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Same on the Zenith Stromberg, if the carb is all the way on, the nuts won’t fit over the end of the stud. Get all nuts started by just a couple threads then tighten them down.
1978 MGB
When diagnosing issues related to running and stalling, always check to see if you have gas in the tank first.
In reply to # 4791007 by Drewski
When either installing or removing the carbs, only engage a couple of threads on the top nut, then pull the carb toward you.
This presents the first couple of threads of the bottom stud, and the gap between the lower carb flange and card body is is not filled with the stud end, and more open to allow fingers and nut to navigate the gap.
This presents the first couple of threads of the bottom stud, and the gap between the lower carb flange and card body is is not filled with the stud end, and more open to allow fingers and nut to navigate the gap.
1978 MGB
When diagnosing issues related to running and stalling, always check to see if you have gas in the tank first.
Topic Creator (OP)
Apr 29, 2024 06:06 PM
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Joined 2 years ago
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In reply to # 4791007 by Drewski
When either installing or removing the carbs, only engage a couple of threads on the top nut, then pull the carb toward you.
This presents the first couple of threads of the bottom stud, and the gap between the lower carb flange and card body is is not filled with the stud end, and more open to allow fingers and nut to navigate the gap.
This presents the first couple of threads of the bottom stud, and the gap between the lower carb flange and card body is is not filled with the stud end, and more open to allow fingers and nut to navigate the gap.
I had done this to a point, but got me to thinking, if I don't put the top nuts on at all, I will have even more clearance. And that worked a lot better.
Quote:
Using a long extension and a 1/4" drive universal adapter, I remove & install the manifold from the head with the carbs in place. I then can work on the carbs at my workbench.
I'm not sure how I could get a 1/4' drive in there but I do like the idea of removing the manifold with the carbs, keeps everything together. I didn't need to work on the carbs so I used a few small bungee cords to hold everything together.Jay in La Marque, Galveston Texas.
In God we Trust. All others bring data.
Trust, but Verify
Apr 29, 2024 10:48 PM
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Jay, do yourself a favor while you have the carbs off of the manifold and chase the threads. If the threads are very clean and threads without flaw, you can use your fingers for most of the work. I take it you are installing HIF? They are a bit more difficult than the earlier HS4's. Drewski has it right, don't make it harder on yourself.
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Apr 30, 2024 01:07 PM
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To add to the foregoing info about leaving the carbs loose to give clearance to start the threads on the lower nuts, I do my best to try to get a peek at the nut as I'm attempting to install (wearing a head-light and craning my neck), and use the fingers of my left hand to start the rear lower nut, and the fingers on my right hand to start the front lower nut. Having done the job again a few days ago, I'm realizing that my wrists and fingers do not have near the range of motion and dexterity that they used to! After the nuts are started, I tighten them as far as possible by hand, and then use one of my shorter open end wrenched (for swing clearance) to cinch all the nuts down uniformly.
Best regards, George
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2024-05-01 09:37 AM by KozyB.
Best regards, George
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2024-05-01 09:37 AM by KozyB.
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