MGA Forum

I had a local repair shop do some work on my 1960 MGA 1600. He also put a Pertronox electronic ignition system & it basically shorted out. I have found out this is not uncommon for Pertronox ignitions, nor are they helpful to their customers

What I need is some help. I ha the distributor rebuilt & it looks great. I installed it & I did the following:

1. I set the static
2. I checked to make sure the car has gas going to the carb’s.
3. Check the carbs & they appear to be working.
4. I check the spark plugs with a spark plug tester(picture attached). No light comes on.

So I assume that the distributor is good. I am getting gas, & the Carbs are working. What could I be doing wrong??

Don't see the picture. What tester did you use?

???? #4?????? Is there a spark, when yu crank the engine over. 12V at the cpo;. Carbon brush inside distributor cap, Rtpr in place. ??? Lot to check.... 'AIR, FUE;, FIRE" at the right time, in the right place. Concentrate on #1 cylinder, the rest will follow.

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IN ALL SUBJECTS.: For those who believe, no proof is needed. For those who don’t believe, no proof is possible.

"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough"
Sir Henry Royce
co-founder of Rolls-Royce .

"I take no credit for my own, of another man's fame".
Joe Baba 2021

I used to sell the Pertronix at my parts store and the only problems were due to improper installation. I use them on 3 MG race cars and 3 street cars, no problems.
Stan Heath

Go to MGAGuru IG-106. About half way down, see paragraph regarding a “kick yourself” installation error. I can’t link from my cell phone.

This is the spark tester I used

This is the tester I used

Yes I am familiar with install issues & this is why I have contacted the repairman l.

Thanks I will check that out

You can make one out of an old spark plug. Our Leader SKYE, years ago posted a DIY Tool. Look in our library here, for SPARK PLUG TESTER. Works great. Somebofy. may LINK it up. oodd uck.

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IN ALL SUBJECTS.: For those who believe, no proof is needed. For those who don’t believe, no proof is possible.

"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough"
Sir Henry Royce
co-founder of Rolls-Royce .

"I take no credit for my own, of another man's fame".
Joe Baba 2021

Me thinks that if "no light comes on", you are not getting spark. Am I missing something?

Yes you are right. But does that mean I have bad spark plug wires, bad spark plugs, or what? I don’t think it’s the distributor as it’s been rebuilt & tested. I don’t know what I am missing

Earlier, I was trying to get you to look at this page,

https://mgaguru.com/mgtech/ignition/ig106.htm

especially this paragraph. There is a diagram to go with it.


"The next item is a "kick yourself" thing if you get it wrong. When replacing contact points and/or condenser, connections of the condenser lead and the input flex wire have to be made to the spring arm of the points set, and these wires must not be grounded on the screw post. If the points open, but the side terminal is still grounded, you likely have this wrong. Correct assembly order is, bottom insulator bushing, condenser wire end terminal, spring arm, input flex wire end terminal, top insulator bushing, flat washer and hex nut. As a matter of convenience you can put both input wire and condenser wire terminals in front of the spring arm (under the insulating grommet), all electrically connected and all isolated from the post. These wires should be positioned so they do not touch or rub on the rotor shaft or housing in operation. Some replacement points sets may have a nylon screw post to avoid grounding on the post, and/or may have a flat insulating washer on the bottom rather than a second stepped bushing. In any case you still have to get the wires into contact with the spring arm and isolated from the metal post. I personally dislike the nylon screw post as it is tough to get it tight without breaking (and it can become brittle with age and heat cycling).


It is something simple to check out.

I had a similar problem. The plug wires I had on the car were original to the car. You need to have the type of plug wires suggested by Petronix. The original wires caused the diodes in the electronics to fail. After I changed the plug wires and bought another Petronix electronic ignition, that cleared up my problem.

Here's the article Joseph refers to:
https://www.mgexp.com/article/make-a-spark-tester.37
Though the final photo is a bit confusing as the "L" shaped section has not been removed? Assume thats just an error?