T-Series & Prewar Forum

HI,
I'm putting my engine back together and it's been too long since I took it apart. Does the longer thread go into the block or shorter end. If the longer end goes into the block then I wonder what the allen socket is for in the stud?
Thanks,
Erik

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Erik

'79 MGB
'52 MG TD MK II

Sounds like ARP studs. The Allen hex should be up. Aids in installing them.

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"Time flies like an arrow......Fruit flies like a banana"

Short end into the block.

Erik - it sounds like you no longer havea mhy installation insgructions for the ARP head studs I sell. Please see below, and if you have any questions, please let me know at tlange@acadia.net

INTERNAL ENGINE PARTS
ARP engineers have provided useful advice on properly torquing their fasteners. THEIR best recommendation for fastener lubricant is to use the same engine oil that you will be using in the engine - that way there is least possibility of inconsistency or incompatibility.

NB: All threaded holes in a block should be cleaned out after machine shop work, using a dedicated cleaning-out tap – NOT A STANDARD TAP! A standard tap will remove critical metal that cannot be replaced, and the threaded holes in the block will actually be weaker than before. An Australian owner cleaned his head stud holes with a new and sharp standard tap, after which the head studs literally pulled out of the block BEFORE reaching recommended torque. This required re- drilling and the installation of inserts, after which the holes were stronger than original.

**ARP HEAD STUDS – VERY lightly oil the stud threads ONLY (do NOT simply squirt oil in the stud holes – you WILL crack your block) with the same motor oil you will use in the engine, and torque the studs into the block to only 10 foot-pounds using the internal hex. After installing the studs, LIGHTLY oil the contact surface at the bottom of the nuts and the stud threads, and torque to 20, then 40, then 60 foot-pounds, in the normal shop-manual sequence. I strongly recommend re-torquing the head after it has been run for a half hour, after the first drive, after 100 miles and after 500 miles. I have never had a blown head-gasket with this procedure. ALWAYS re-torque with the engine cold. The proper procedure is to loosen the first nut a half turn, then re-torque to 60 foot-pounds, and repeat for the other nine. [Use special hardened washers under the head nuts ONLY with aluminum heads.] If you chose to re-use your old nuts, gently thread each one on a stud - if there is ANY binding or roughness, the torque will be compromised. That's why race-engine builders strongly recommend using my 12-pt. nuts

Tom Lange
MGT Repair