T-Series & Prewar Forum

Hi
as Im about to re-engineer my crankshaft seal, following a failed mk1 version, I am seeking a supplier, preferably UK, of a teflon oil seal.

As I am planning to fit both a lip seal and re-instate the scroll seal, belt and braces as we brits say, I need a seal that will tolerate effectively dry running , which the teflon seals claim to tolerate.

Our well known major supplier of MG parts lists such seal as an improved version of their older design.

Has anyone fitted such a seal, or is about to ?
If so are you able to give me the seal manufacture, and its dimensions?, and maybe a supplier.

Ideally I want a seal having a 95mm shaft diameter, with a width of around 10mm.

Many thanks

Mike

It's called "packing" and is available at your friendly neighborhood bearing and seal dealer.

Why would anyone go through all the trouble to design a rear seal for an antique engine and then use packing? Lip seals are used in this location for a reason.


Moss has changed their seal a couple times to improve longevity. It's an SKF but I don't have the dimensions handy.

One reason is that few automotive people know how to install packing anymore. With a proper line bore to restore clearances ( and today it can be better than new) and proper crankcase ventilation there will be little or no seepage. Part of owning and driving an antique car is the experience. If you want a car to drive and feel like a modern car, get a kit car.

How is installing a better seal going to make the car feel like a modern one? No matter how good the packing installation is, it will never out-perform a lip seal in longevity or performance. If it could, then modern manufacturers would use it. Auto techs don't know about packing for the same reason they don't know about riveting clutch linings. It's outdated technology that has been greatly improved upon over the last 100 years.

It sometimes surprises me how posts can get misinterpreted; my post refers to the REAR crankshaft seal, the “packing “ utilised in front seal has long since been dumped and replaced with a so far very effective lip seal.

Thanks, Steve, I will contact SKF suppliers in the UK, or just order one from Moss.

My initial design only failed because the ring which I fitted to the crankshaft rear flange to bring the diameter up to 100 mm was retained using high temperature Loctite, which on two occasions now has failed, as I discovered when I pressure- tested the seal in situ on the part-dismantled engine.
In hindsight I should have made the ring with a shrink fit.

I shall now go the speedi sleeve route, to use the 95mm dia flange diameter, and, as said, will make the scroll seal become back in its original function or returning the majority of the oil to the sump, the “icing on the cake” will be the outer lip seal.

If all fails again, I’ll have to consider fitting an oil return system to return the leaked oil the engine……but this will be a last resort, a much larger catchpan would be an easier option., maybe with an automatic drain valve to save crawling under.

Seriously though, its all part of the fun of ownership of such a basic and easily upgraded old motor, of which i’ve done many during m restoration.

I’ll post a couple of photos of my efforts on the subject of crankshaft seals, front and rear, in case anyone is interested.

Back to the drawing board as we say,
Mike

I understood perfectly, which is why I was so perplexed by Scott's post!

You can also buy a rear seal kit ready made from a couple different sources. The front seal fits straight in with a bit of sealer, or you can machine the cover and pan together for a press-in seal. I've used both with excellent results.

Steve,

as you say, complete kits can be purchased, but , being a traditional Yorkshireman, with deep pockets and short arms, the thought of doing this gives me the eebeegeebies.

Seriously though, as I am lucky to have a lathe and mill, plus a stock of ally plate, and its a nice project to test that my engineering skills are still active at 70, I’ll have a go myself.
The first holder I made only failed due to the use of adhesive as already mentioned , I’ll just have to shell out and buy a speedi sleeve,
at the great expense of around 50 quid!, plus seal at a similar cost……can’t win ‘em all.

Mike