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Brake pedal problem.

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Brake pedal problem.
#1
fiddle-faddle60 Jay Niemann
Lebanon, IN 46052, USA   USA
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I have replaced every component of the brake system with new on my 1966 Midget. Tested the new master cylinder -good. Bled the brakes numerous times with a pressure bleeder. Still the pedal goes clear to the floor when depressed. HELP!!!!

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Re: Brake pedal problem.
#2
Mtn Sprite Avatar
Mtn Sprite Layne M
Santa Cruz, CA, USA   USA
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1969 Austin-Healey Sprite
Sounds like you still have air in the lines.
Have you tried doing a two person pump/hold/bleed/repeat process
Or the one man bottle bleed technique?

Doing furthest line first right?
Which would be Driver rear if a standard line routing.

You have the rear drums adjusted prior to bleed?

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Re: Brake pedal problem.
#3
LorenFL Avatar
LorenFL Loren Williams
Safety Harbor, FL, USA   USA
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1976 MG Midget 1500 "The MG"
I've never used a pressure bleeder, but I'd imagine that it won't take the place of bench-bleeding the master cylinder. If you've not done that, it could be your issue.

Also, it's possible to have a bad master cylinder out-of-the-box. Sometimes they don't assemble them properly.

Ditch the pressure bleeder. You're not physically MOVING FLUID when you press the pedal, you need to get to where you are.

Short answer: ^^^ What he said. There's air in the system somewhere.


1976 Midget 1500 - Current | 1976 Spitfire 1500 - Years Ago | Many Miatas and other cars - Yep
"Simplify and add lightness."

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Re: Brake pedal problem.
#4
JAMADOR Avatar
JAMADOR John Amador
Spring, TX, USA   USA
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1975 MG Midget 1500 "Midge"
It took 2 [2 man, manual] bleed sessions on my 75 to get the brakes solid.


1975 MG Midget 1500 - Midge
Work in Progress

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Re: Brake pedal problem.
#5
gg71 Silver Member Greg Grohoski
Austin, TX, USA   USA
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1973 MG Midget
Did you crack the fitting at the MC to bleed the air from there, prior to starting at the LHS rear wheel, then RHS rear,
then LHS front, then RHS front? I'm assuming you're getting clear fluid w/no bubbles from all of these points?

When you say you replaced all brake system components, can you be more specific?

Have you checked for a leak at any of the fittings?



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2024-04-26 10:08 AM by gg71.

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Re: Brake pedal problem.
#6
Kerr Avatar
Kerr Platinum Member Norm Kerr
Ann Arbor, MI, USA   USA
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1974 MG Midget
When using a pressure bleeder it has been my experience that bench bleeding is not necessary (pressure bleeding is how OEMs do it and they never bench bleed).

The question no one has asked you yet is if you've adjusted your rear brakes?
if they are not adjusted they'll use up all of your pedal travel

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Re: Brake pedal problem.
#7
Mtn Sprite Avatar
Mtn Sprite Layne M
Santa Cruz, CA, USA   USA
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1969 Austin-Healey Sprite
Hey, I asked that.spinning smiley sticking its tongue out



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2024-04-26 12:23 PM by Mtn Sprite.

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Re: Brake pedal problem.
#8
fiddle-faddle60 Jay Niemann
Lebanon, IN 46052, USA   USA
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Thank all of you for your answers. I have bench bled the MS, I even plugged the ms with a pipe plug, and the brake pedal cannot be depressed - rock solid. So I do not have a master cylinder p[roblem. When I stated that all components of the brake system are new - even to the steel lines. Wheel cylinders, calipers, rotors, shoes, drums, flexible lines, are all new. I put a friend in the car up on my lift. I had him pump the brakes while I tried to turn each wheel. I could not turn them while he was pumping so it appears there is some hydraulic pressure.

Did the 1966 Midgets have a proportioning valve? I don't remember!

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Re: Brake pedal problem.
#9
shuby Doug Shuberg
Oklahoma City, OKC, USA   USA
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1969 MG Midget MkIII
Hate to admit this but when I replaced the rear brake linings, I installed them improperly. Brake pedal had too much travel, E-brake handle went to the top of travel. Mechanic showed me my problem & corrected it. Pedal & E-brake handle no longer travel far.

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Re: Brake pedal problem.
#10
TikiCricket Auggie A
Cambridge, MD, USA   USA
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I recommend two things. First, the one way valve bleed nipples will allow you to bleed the lines by yourself. Find them on Amazon. Second, adjust the drums so that there is significant drag when you try to turn the wheel (with the axle raised both sides). It shouldn't be locked up, but pretty close to it. These will loosen up in a couple hundred miles and the pedal will be nice and solid.

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Re: Brake pedal problem.
#11
trevorwj Avatar
trevorwj Trevor Jessie
Louisville, KY, USA   USA
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Any chance you have the calipers on the wrong side? Bleeders need to be at the top.

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Re: Brake pedal problem.
#12
fiddle-faddle60 Jay Niemann
Lebanon, IN 46052, USA   USA
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No the calipers are installed correctly, but thank you for your suggestion.

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Re: Brake pedal problem.
#13
mg rob uk Avatar
mg rob uk ROB D
OKEHAMPTON, DEVON, UK   GBR
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1972 MG MGB
clamp the rear hose,if brake peadal improves ,air in rear ,if not clamp one front hose test ,then clamp the other one,that will tell you where the air is.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2024-04-27 01:58 PM by mg rob uk.

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Re: Brake pedal problem.
#14
ice Avatar
ice Gold Member Larry Ice
Lawrenceville, GA, USA   USA
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1971 MG Midget MkIII
No proportioning valve in Midgets.

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Re: Brake pedal problem.
#15
fiddle-faddle60 Jay Niemann
Lebanon, IN 46052, USA   USA
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thank you

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