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72 Midget clutch pedal travel

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72 Midget clutch pedal travel
#1
MGgolfer Mike Swift (New Member)
Murfreesboro, TN, USA   USA
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Guys, I recently finished a restoration on my car and have an issue with getting full release on the drive plate. Symptom is grinding of 1st and reverse but also tight going into the sync gears. I feel very comfortable with eliminating air in system and fit of pivot points with exception of the fork only because I have not pulled the engine again to check it. I do have the pedal parallel issue mentioned in other posts but have not pulled it to bend or grind relief as some have mentioned. I check the stroke travel on the MC push rod and it’s about 1/2” of bottoming out in the cylinder. Before I try reworking the pedal arm I was curious to know if anyone knows how the car came out of the factory. Was there an offset by design or were the pedals on the same plane? This would probably influence my next decision. Thanks in advance for all input

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Re: 72 Midget clutch pedal travel
#2
ice Avatar
ice Gold Member Larry Ice
Lawrenceville, GA, USA   USA
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1971 MG Midget MkIII
Mike, if go into your registry you can post the info on your car so we don't have to keep asking the year of your car. Takes but a minute and then you are done with it!

The cars I had have all had a difference in the height between the brake and clutch. Never bothered me so didn't pay any attention. When you had you car apart did you check for wear in the mechanical linkage? Doesn't take much wear on the linkage to make a difference.

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Re: 72 Midget clutch pedal travel
#3
refisk Rick Fisk
Frankenmuth, MI, USA   USA
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Hi Mike,

Welcome to the forum!

Just checking here, but you do know right that 1st and reverse are not synchronized and you have to be completely stopped to shift into either of those gears without grinding. At a complete stop shift into 2nd and then into 1st to eliminate grinding. Shift into 3rd and then into reverse.

If you already are doing this and still have grinding then there is another issue. Did you replace the slave? Do you have the correct slave pushrod (there are two different lengths available)?

The pedals left the factory at the same height from the floor. If they are uneven now then something has changed over the years.

Rick

In reply to # 4783636 by MGgolfer Guys, I recently finished a restoration on my car and have an issue with getting full release on the drive plate. Symptom is grinding of 1st and reverse but also tight going into the sync gears. I feel very comfortable with eliminating air in system and fit of pivot points with exception of the fork only because I have not pulled the engine again to check it. I do have the pedal parallel issue mentioned in other posts but have not pulled it to bend or grind relief as some have mentioned. I check the stroke travel on the MC push rod and it’s about 1/2” of bottoming out in the cylinder. Before I try reworking the pedal arm I was curious to know if anyone knows how the car came out of the factory. Was there an offset by design or were the pedals on the same plane? This would probably influence my next decision. Thanks in advance for all input

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Re: 72 Midget clutch pedal travel
#4
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pbcjr peter cantamessa
east brunswick, NJ, USA   USA
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1971 MG Midget MkIII
In reply to # 4783636 by MGgolfer Guys, I recently finished a restoration on my car and have an issue with getting full release on the drive plate.
Symptom is grinding of 1st and reverse but also tight going into the sync gears.

Mike,

I know you said you're satisfied that there is no air in the system, but those are often the classic symptoms of air in the hydraulic system.

Pete


In 1974 when I was 18, I passed on buying a running and driving 1966 E-Type coupe for $1,500, which is what they were selling for at the time.
Fifty years later, I'm still kicking myself...

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Re: 72 Midget clutch pedal travel
#5
gmallory Glenn Mallory
Albuquerque, NM, USA   USA
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1971 MG Midget
What appears to be minor wear on the clevis pins, slave pushrod and pedal fork adds up quickly to pedal going to the floor without completely disengaging the clutch. The hole in the pedal shaft for the clevis pin also wears.

The cars came from the factory with no lubricant at the pivot points. I bought mine new in 1971 and within three years or so, the pins, pedal shaft and pushrod were all critically worn. A minor amount of grease on the clevis pins virtually eliminates wear of these components.

I found that substituting a longer slave pushrod as the clutch wore would raise the pedal for an additional 10,000 miles or so of life. The rod came from a traverse engine Austin America/1300 and I switched them as needed to compensate for clutch wear. The pivot arm on the bell housing also wears and must eventually be replaced.

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