MGB & GT Forum
they almost work AAARG
Posted by geraldlanc
geraldlanc
gerald lancaster
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Topic Creator (OP)
Nov 25, 2015 11:11 AM
Joined 11 years ago
439 Posts
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My first attempt at rebuilding brakes on the 67 B (front and rear complete new parts) has come to a halt. The front calipers work, but the rear do not. I have bled the brakes until no air bubbles come out, but the pedal is still a bit soft. It goes down 3 or 4 inches inches before stopping. I turned the brake adjusters until there is just a little drag on the drum and then my helper pushes the pedal to the bottom as I turn the drum. The brake pads do not contact the drum. Then my helper pumps the pedal three times and holds on three and the drum is locked up good and tight. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Gerald
Gerald
Nov 25, 2015 11:32 AM
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Joined 9 years ago
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Nov 25, 2015 12:17 PM
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Joined 18 years ago
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One suggestion: with drum off, crack bleeder, with a large pair of pliers squeeze the pistons until they bottom out against each other, reinstall drum, run adjuster out until drums lock, bleed/work brakes with good pedal pressure. Lastly back off adjuster until wheel frees. This procedure will get the contact area on the shoes more towards the middle area of the shoe.
Check for crushed brake lines to the rear or across the axle (common).
Check for crushed brake lines to the rear or across the axle (common).
geraldlanc
gerald lancaster
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Topic Creator (OP)
Nov 25, 2015 12:34 PM
Joined 11 years ago
439 Posts
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Problem solved?? My helper was not applying full pressure to the pedal ( 5 year old grand daughter ) so I asked my 9 year old to help and they seem to work now. The first push on the pedal seems a little soft to me, but with one pump, it firms up nicely. I won't know for sure until I get it on the ground with some tires installed. It may take a little tweaking with the adjuster. Now the ebrake - it locks up the rear wheels firmly with 2 clicks on the ratchet. Is that correct? Does the ebrake cable route thru the driveshaft tunnel?
Gerald
Gerald
Nov 25, 2015 12:42 PM
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Joined 20 years ago
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If it firms up with one push, you still have air in the lines.
If you deem it safe to do so, take the car around the block a couple of times (using the brakes). Then, rebleed. I don't know why but I've often found that getting the last bubble out seems to require some actual movement of the car.
Terry Ingoldsby
terry.ingoldsby@DCExperts.com
If you deem it safe to do so, take the car around the block a couple of times (using the brakes). Then, rebleed. I don't know why but I've often found that getting the last bubble out seems to require some actual movement of the car.
Terry Ingoldsby
terry.ingoldsby@DCExperts.com
Nov 25, 2015 01:48 PM
Joined 19 years ago
6,502 Posts
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There is a learning process to bleeding.
I assume you are using the open/close of the bleeder. Plywood on the floor so the helper cannot overdo it.
Assume new hoses.
Carefully inspect lines in the rear for damage.
Drive it a bit and rebleed. Air in the lines in back.
L.W.(Larry)Baygents
63B
77 Spit
I assume you are using the open/close of the bleeder. Plywood on the floor so the helper cannot overdo it.
Assume new hoses.
Carefully inspect lines in the rear for damage.
Drive it a bit and rebleed. Air in the lines in back.
L.W.(Larry)Baygents
63B
77 Spit
Nov 26, 2015 12:57 AM
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Joined 18 years ago
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Nov 27, 2015 08:39 AM
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Joined 17 years ago
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Pump the brakes, then readjust the rears. Repeat until they drag a little too much, then back them off until you just hear them rub a bit.
Yep, likely still a bit of air in the lines if the pedal needs to be pumped up.
jeff@advanceddistributors.com
Yep, likely still a bit of air in the lines if the pedal needs to be pumped up.
jeff@advanceddistributors.com
Donthuis
Don van Riet
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Nov 27, 2015 09:20 AM
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Bleeding the rearbrakes is often easier in the end, as you've now noticed, while with new calipers up front sometimes tiny bubbles may stuck to corners of the unit(s)
I had a minor soft pedal effect after my frontbrake overhaul (even with rearbrakes well adjusted and bled/handbrake pulled), which disappeared at second bleeding of the front after a week of driving
Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 2015-11-27 09:21 AM by Donthuis.
I had a minor soft pedal effect after my frontbrake overhaul (even with rearbrakes well adjusted and bled/handbrake pulled), which disappeared at second bleeding of the front after a week of driving
In reply to # 3134697 by geraldlanc
My first attempt at rebuilding brakes on the 67 B (front and rear complete new parts) has come to a halt. The front calipers work, but the rear do not. I have bled the brakes until no air bubbles come out, but the pedal is still a bit soft. It goes down 3 or 4 inches inches before stopping. I turned the brake adjusters until there is just a little drag on the drum and then my helper pushes the pedal to the bottom as I turn the drum. The brake pads do not contact the drum. Then my helper pumps the pedal three times and holds on three and the drum is locked up good and tight. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Gerald
Gerald
Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 2015-11-27 09:21 AM by Donthuis.
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