MGB & GT Forum
rear sus. questions
Posted by geraldlanc
geraldlanc
gerald lancaster
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Topic Creator (OP)
Apr 16, 2014 04:40 PM
Joined 11 years ago
439 Posts
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I am ready to reinstall the rear axle/susp. in the 67 B. I have lost the two bolts that connect the forward end of the springs to the spring hanger. Is that something I can find at Home Depot? Also, since this is a one man operation, getting the assembly back in place is a problem. Can I jack up and install one end of the axle assembly at a time or do I have to jack up from the differential?
Gerald
Gerald
fast-MG.com
Dave Headley
Cortez, 4 corners, Colorado, USA
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Apr 16, 2014 06:27 PM
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billymgb1000
william gaulin
harrisville, harrisville RI, USA
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Apr 16, 2014 06:38 PM
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Hey Gerald
my name is bill the way I do it is first take each spring and put the front bolts in each one then put the rear end on the jack and center it under the car and jack it up. go all the way up with it and then take each spring and bring them up to the rear shackle and put the bolts in. now you let the jack down and tighten everything up good luck brother
my name is bill the way I do it is first take each spring and put the front bolts in each one then put the rear end on the jack and center it under the car and jack it up. go all the way up with it and then take each spring and bring them up to the rear shackle and put the bolts in. now you let the jack down and tighten everything up good luck brother
Michael74MGB
Michael Austin
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Apr 17, 2014 01:30 PM
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Since you have to get new bolts anyway.... perhaps going back with stainless steel would be a good idea since it will help to alleviate rusting/seizing concerns in the future? In any event, do coat the bolts with anti-seize (the shafts especially) when you go back together.
On the assumption that you have the differential out of the car now, I'd go back with the diff sitting on two jackstands in approximate height - though some "adjustment" will likely be necessary - and get them seated on the springs correctly. Then jack from the center of the diff and get the back of each spring in position and stab then in place with a bolt. I did this myself solo and it wasn't too bad.
74 MGB: APT VP11 cam, lifters, valve springs; 9:1; ported head; TT exhaust; vernier timing gear; wizard aluminum radiator; dizzy by Jeff S.; stock HIF4's; it goes on and on.....
On the assumption that you have the differential out of the car now, I'd go back with the diff sitting on two jackstands in approximate height - though some "adjustment" will likely be necessary - and get them seated on the springs correctly. Then jack from the center of the diff and get the back of each spring in position and stab then in place with a bolt. I did this myself solo and it wasn't too bad.
74 MGB: APT VP11 cam, lifters, valve springs; 9:1; ported head; TT exhaust; vernier timing gear; wizard aluminum radiator; dizzy by Jeff S.; stock HIF4's; it goes on and on.....
Apr 17, 2014 02:11 PM
Joined 13 years ago
79 Posts
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Gerald:
Good Info in the responces. I did mine last summer ,but never took the rear out.What I found very helpfull was a couple of bottle jacks . The u bolts were easier to hook up using the bottle jacks under the springs and also in hooking the rear springs to the hanger, you can use the jacks to flatten(lenthen) the spring and hook up was easier.
Bob Jorglewich
Good Info in the responces. I did mine last summer ,but never took the rear out.What I found very helpfull was a couple of bottle jacks . The u bolts were easier to hook up using the bottle jacks under the springs and also in hooking the rear springs to the hanger, you can use the jacks to flatten(lenthen) the spring and hook up was easier.
Bob Jorglewich
knewham
Keith N
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Apr 17, 2014 02:16 PM
Joined 12 years ago
748 Posts
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Please don't consider using stainless on critical suspension bolts for the OP. stainless are more brittle than their standard non stainless equivalents - there are number of discussions about this on the forums about fasteners. please stick the correct bolt for the application.
Cheers
Keith
Cheers
Keith
In reply to # 2664431 by Michael74MGB
Since you have to get new bolts anyway.... perhaps going back with stainless steel would be a good idea since it will help to alleviate rusting/seizing concerns in the future? In any event, do coat the bolts with anti-seize (the shafts especially) when you go back together.
On the assumption that you have the differential out of the car now, I'd go back with the diff sitting on two jackstands in approximate height - though some "adjustment" will likely be necessary - and get them seated on the springs correctly. Then jack from the center of the diff and get the back of each spring in position and stab then in place with a bolt. I did this myself solo and it wasn't too bad.
On the assumption that you have the differential out of the car now, I'd go back with the diff sitting on two jackstands in approximate height - though some "adjustment" will likely be necessary - and get them seated on the springs correctly. Then jack from the center of the diff and get the back of each spring in position and stab then in place with a bolt. I did this myself solo and it wasn't too bad.
Apr 17, 2014 02:57 PM
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Apr 17, 2014 06:30 PM
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FYI, there are different grades (strengths) of the not SS bolts, grades 2, 5, & 8. the higher the number, they are stronger. You can tell by looking at the head.
The attached link shows better than I can describe. Use grade 5 or 8, and as mentioned, SS are not as strong.
http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/materials-and-grades/bolt-grade-chart.aspx
The attached link shows better than I can describe. Use grade 5 or 8, and as mentioned, SS are not as strong.
http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/materials-and-grades/bolt-grade-chart.aspx
Donthuis
Don van Riet
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Apr 18, 2014 04:18 AM
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Never use stainless steel on items under heavy loads. With your 1967 B it may be that the bolts are the specific ones with a stepped profile, the only such ones in the whole car. In this case buying them elsewhere is definitely not possible. The same holds true for the tapered ones
For my 1972 car I was told that I definitely needed the original bolts with their specific length and thread. Mine were not stepped but slightly tapered to fit tightly in the leaf spring bush. Old tapered ones are often a swine to get out, some grind them through at both sides, mine loosened when the grinding on the first side heated the bolt enough to free it
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2014-04-18 04:18 AM by Donthuis.
For my 1972 car I was told that I definitely needed the original bolts with their specific length and thread. Mine were not stepped but slightly tapered to fit tightly in the leaf spring bush. Old tapered ones are often a swine to get out, some grind them through at both sides, mine loosened when the grinding on the first side heated the bolt enough to free it
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2014-04-18 04:18 AM by Donthuis.
Apr 18, 2014 04:25 AM
Top Contributor
Joined 13 years ago
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Again but without any engineering background only common sense these are one of the bolts that I would (did) source from a MG supplier eg Leacy
I didn't even use ARP this time; if I had the opportunity to do so theirs are the only ss I would consider.
Mk1: CKD 11/66 first registered 8/5/67; owned since 3/77. 18GB +40 balanced. Peter Burgess BVFR head. Piper 285. 123. FidanzaFW. 4synch c/r box. Lots more as I did a nut and bolt rebuild; finished 2015. Tartan Red.
GT: December '78. VW Golf guards, flush fit front and rear valances. Torana XU1 vents, frenched indicators & Mk1 rear lights. 'Worked' Rover V8 with Monsoon ECU for EFI. GM4L60E, Lokar tiptronic & Quick4 controller. Vintage Air A/C. FC IFS. CCE 4 link rear. Salisbury with Quaife. Jaguar Storm.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2014-04-18 04:27 AM by MGB567.
I didn't even use ARP this time; if I had the opportunity to do so theirs are the only ss I would consider.
Mk1: CKD 11/66 first registered 8/5/67; owned since 3/77. 18GB +40 balanced. Peter Burgess BVFR head. Piper 285. 123. FidanzaFW. 4synch c/r box. Lots more as I did a nut and bolt rebuild; finished 2015. Tartan Red.
GT: December '78. VW Golf guards, flush fit front and rear valances. Torana XU1 vents, frenched indicators & Mk1 rear lights. 'Worked' Rover V8 with Monsoon ECU for EFI. GM4L60E, Lokar tiptronic & Quick4 controller. Vintage Air A/C. FC IFS. CCE 4 link rear. Salisbury with Quaife. Jaguar Storm.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2014-04-18 04:27 AM by MGB567.
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