MG Midget Forum

Does anyone have a good reference for engine bolts/nuts torque values for the Midget? Can't seem to find anything exactly suitable in the tech library here or in the manuals I have.

I am getting ready to remove the front of the engine to check if I have slipped some teeth in the timing chain and may need to replace chain and the pulleys.
That big nut on the harmonic balancer will be a bear I suppose. Believe it is 1 5/16 inch. Goody. More tools for my toolbox!
I plan on jacking the front of the car up and supporting the engine with 2x4s under the oil pan and lowering the car back to the floor to get at the big nut.
May as well replace the motor mounts while I am at it.



Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 2015-08-31 02:10 PM by MGMJ.

Electric impact wrench from HF unless you have an air driven inpact wrench. There may also be tabs to unbend.

Norm Kerr posted this torque chart for various general Spridget nuts and bolts…

heres a link >>> torque chart

Ping Hap "speedracer", he is our resident authority on engines.

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to paraphrase Mark Twain:

. . . . . "I never learned anything when I was typing! . . . . .

Got everything disconnected and ready to tackle today. I just need to go to Advance Auto and pick up a 1 5/15 socket.
Looks like the motor mounts will be a breeze to replace now that the engine is supported. I was surprised that the three bolts holding the mounts to the frame were not as tight as I expected.

Thanks Jim. I don't have an impact wrench so I will be doing this by the gorilla method.

Thanks Mike. I saved a copy of that for future reference. For now I just need to find the torque values for the retaining bolt (29) and camshaft nut (25). Will contact Hap in a bit to get his input.

Well Jim. Seems you were right about the impact wrench. I used all the gorilla grease I could muster even using an extension pipe on my wrench.
All I managed to do was move the complete engine in the bay about an inch to the right!
No matter how much force I put on that bolt it would not budge even a fraction. I think I even heard the clutch plate slipping since the car was in 1st gear.
I could never get a solid bite on the wrench as it seemed to always be a bit "spongy" even at max effort.
Maybe I could rent one from Advance or O'Rilley. It will have to be electric since I do not have a compressor. Hope it fits in that tight space!

Mark,

Go to Harbor Freight and get one of these. On sale for $49.99 and with a 20% off coupon it would only be $40. Plug it in and go.

http://t.harborfreight.com/12-in-heavy-duty-electric-impact-wrench-61173.html

Thanks Rick but I don't think I can get to the bolt with that.
The shaft that connects the steering rack is in the way and there are only a few inches to access.
I may try the starter bump method with the wrench in place but that should be interesting since the motor mounts are disconnected.

If the motor mounts are disconnected can't you jack the engine up enough to get an impact gun on it?

Trevor...the engine is jacked up as far as it can go in the photos. Just no way to use an impact gun in there.

Then the next step is to pull the engine.

Or you could remove the steering rack....fairly easy to do. When you go to Harbor Freight to get the impact wrench pick up one of these to remove the tie rod ends. It's called a ball joint separator, but it works perfectly on the tie rod ends.

http://t.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html?utm_referrer=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com%2F






Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2015-08-30 09:17 AM by refisk.

I want to avoid pulling the lump at all costs.
I have the ball joint separator so it looks like I will be pulling the steering rack. Arrrgh!
This is turning into a real tar-baby. Feeling like Br'er Rabbit - "The harder I kick, the stucker I get!"
I simply wanted to check my timing chain and gears for possible slippage.

OK Mark--back to basics--what makes you think the timing chain has slipped? I know the signs (timing chain jumped only my 72 Opel Kadett ) but what's going on with your car? CL

Charles,

I have a couple threads on this with a few comments on checking the timing chain.

http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?3,3063482,3063941#msg-3063941

http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?3,2980460

Basically...

A while back I got home from a business trip and felt the need to drive the little car. Battery was completely dead so I had to jump start. I drove about 6-7 miles and she was running great. Stopped for a haircut and no issues in shutting down. About a mile into the return trip she started cutting out followed by lurching and violent backfiring. Not some little poot mind you, but very loud with a metallic "ping" at the end. She died on the spot and would turn over but not restart, only the backfiring again. Towed her home and started scratching my head. I got some good advice on the previous thread (thanks guys).

What I have done:
Checked all vacuum lines for leaks - none.
Bought from Advanced Distributors and replaced breaker plate, points, condenser, rotor cap (red type), dizzy cap and wires. Distributor reinstalled exactly as removed so it is not "180 out".
New spark plugs. New coil. New alternator. Battery checks 100%. Checked spark on each plug wire and coil. All good strong spark. Plug wires are installed correctly for firing order 1-3-4-2.
Overhauled carbs with complete kit from Joe Curto including new shafts, solid butterflys, jets, needles. Floats set at 3/16”.
Checked static timing – dead on at 15 degrees TDC. I do not have a strobe light for stroboscopic timing.
Checked fuel pump operation. Pumps steady but no way to know psi. Replaced in-line filter.
Did 2 compression tests = #1 (160-165psi), #2 (155-160psi), #3 (155-155psi), #4 (155-157psi).
Starting up and engine revs to 3500-4000 rpm then sudden drop back to almost dying. Occasional backfire out of forward carb. Not violent but a mist of fuel. Engine runs very rough almost like misfiring or one cylinder not firing. Will not hold a good steady idle. Engine shakes and stalls. Basically the same problem as it started with but at least now it starts. Don’t want to run it very long as I may do further damage.

Mark, here is an official torque value guide from the Leyland MG Midget a Shop Manual for 1975-1979 models. Hope it helps....

Thanks Anthony.
I did manage to find the crankshaft pulley bolt torque for my 74'.
Looks to be 70-75 ft lbs.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2015-08-30 10:37 AM by MGMJ.