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Top - Header Rail Seal

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Top - Header Rail Seal
#1
  This topic is about my 1977 MG MGB
The other Al Al Christie
Salmon Arm, BC, Canada   CAN
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1976 MG MGB
1977 MG MGB
'77 roadster. Rather than horn in on a similar thread, I'll add this new one.

When attaching top to windshield, it fits really loose. Rain comes in here and there along the front.

When putting between the top and the windshield a loose piece of rubber that came with the car, it is really hard to keep the rubber in place, and close the top at the same time. (I put masking tape to temporarily hold it in place yesterday).

Also, with the rubber between the top and the windshield, it is REALLY difficult to snap the left snap to the windshield. REALLY stiff.

I'm wondering if the sealing rubber should have been between the frame and the top, rather than loose? ... and, if so, how can I put it in without removing the top from the frame? ... or should the rubber be fitted to the top of the windshield? ... or??

(No pics, as car is at shop having custom tonneau built.)

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Lee Avatar
Lee Lee Miller
Mburg, PA, USA   USA
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1966 MG MGB
1967 MG MGB
1971 MG MGB
1971 MG Midget
The header seal sits in a retainer. The seal retainer is riveted to the header rail over the top material. So you have a header rail, top, seal retainer, and seal. The seal fits into the retainer (__) pic needed



Lee Miller

Experience - hobbyist, rotisserie restoration 1967 MGB, welding, bodywork, painting, wiring, interior, suspension, clutch, engine, SU HS4 carburetors, windshield, and installing convertible top.

Website www.myclassicmg.com

1971 MG MGB
1971 MG Midget
1967 MG MGB
1966 MG MGB restoration project

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Gerry Avatar
Gerry Gerry Masterman
Prairieville, LA, USA   USA
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Sealing rubber fits in a channel at the front edge of your top rail. It slides in from the side and pretty much keeps itself in place. The channel is attached to the header with some countersunk sheet metal screws as I remember. It can be a bit tough to get in place but slides in easier if you use dishwasher soap or silicone brake fluid as a lube. I suspect that you do not have the proper seal. Or the channel is missing as well

This may help understand http://www.mossmotoring.com/top-secrets/

http://www.victoriabritish.com/features/mg/mgct4.htm



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 2015-10-07 01:06 PM by Gerry.

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rntanner Avatar
rntanner Roger N. Tanner (Disabled)
Oxnard, CA, USA   USA
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1970 MG MGB
1977 MG MGB
I live near Moss in Goleta, CA; but, the other parts sources should have the same parts:

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=59204

Look at these items:

37) 453-600 $12.79 RETAINER, header rail seal

This item is a fixture that holds the "weather strip/seal". If it is in less than great shape, it will need to be removed and replaced.
________________

38) 325-288 $1.99 RIVET SET, 15 pc., retainer to rail

These are "common" blind rivets, that are "pushed into the matching holes the RETAINER. A blind (pop) rivet tool is required to "set" the rivets through the "header retainer seal on to the Header Rail. You will need to remove the existing rivets. First try a 1/8" drill bit in a power drill, to remove the existing rivets. (my tools and car are not currently near me)
________________

39) 453-610 $9.89 SEAL, header rail

Remove the old Retainer, head rail seal

Clean up the Header rail, and spray paint it, as necessary. One spray can should suffice.

Install the new RETAINER, header rail seal:

Index the holes in the RETAINER, header rail seal, and place one pop rivet through the Retainer, into the original hole in the Header Rail. Set the pop rivet.

MAKE SURE THE ENDS OF RETAINER MATCH UP WITH THE HOLES ALONG THE HEADER RAIL.

Continue to install and set the other 14 pop rivets.

Install the new Header Rail Seal.

Roger N. Tanner, Professional Engineer, Retired
Oxnard, CA USA



Roger N. Tanner
Professional Engineer, Retired

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MGB567 Avatar
MGB567 Barrie Braxton
Ninderry, KabiKabi country, Queensland, Australia   AUS
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1966 MG MGB MkI "Money Guzzler"
1979 MG MGB GT V8 Conversion "Darkside"
That aluminium retainer is held on usually by rivets - but some use screws (which I'm going to try). Porter suggests a bead of glue on the back of the retainer so that water doesn't dribble between the retainer and the top flap and ultimately inside. The retainer is quite flimsy. One reason for not riveting it is that each time you remove it you end up with rivet parts inside the header rail. Of course all things being equal you shouldn't ever need to remove the retainer. The rubber seal has a lip on the base that pulls through the retainer - that can be a bit of an exercise to get it through. In an ideal world both clips should be very tight to close especially when the top is cold.



Mk1: CKD 11/66 first registered 8/5/67; owned since 3/77. 18GB +40 balanced. Peter Burgess BVFR head. Piper 285. 123. FidanzaFW. 4synch c/r box. Lots more as I did a nut and bolt rebuild; finished 2015. Tartan Red.

GT: December '78. VW Golf guards, flush fit front and rear valances. Torana XU1 vents, frenched indicators & Mk1 rear lights. 'Worked' Rover V8 with Monsoon ECU for EFI. GM4L60E, Lokar tiptronic & Quick4 controller. Vintage Air A/C. FC IFS. CCE 4 link rear. Salisbury with Quaife. Jaguar Storm.

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MRoadster Gold Member Jim Wulf
Doylestown, PA, USA   USA
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1938 MG TA Tickford "The TA"
1939 Lea-Francis Corsica Super Sports "The Corsica"
1963 Ford Thunderbird "The M Car"
1967 MG MGB MkI "The B"
You should also be aware that there is more than one manufacturer of the header seal. When I first got my car the existing header seal did not fit in the channel at all - it was "kind of" glued into the channel, but the profile of the extrusion did not match the channel at all. It was virtually impossible to fit the seal into the channel and the glue job was typical DPO. I bought a new seal from Moss and it installed easily and fit perfectly, and was much more compressible - softer durometer - than the original. I used a little liquid soap to ease sliding it into the aluminum channel and a small dab of weatherstrip adhesive at both ends to keep it from sliding back and forth. I don't recommend getting silicone anywhere near your car unless it's carefully contained within the brake and clutch systems. Silicone + paint = fisheye. angry smiley

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