Modern MG Forum
The Dreaded MGF Boot Loom!
Posted by Rich in Vancouver
Rich in Vancouver
Rich McKie
|
Topic Creator (OP)
Apr 23, 2014 06:58 PM
Joined 17 years ago
7,216 Posts
|
Well. now I've had the pleasure of dealing with just about all of the MGF's endemic problems.
Last weekend I swapped the MGF's dash, a job that included lots of electrical work, Instruments out, radio out, console swap with all new switches, installed an Electric power steering bypass circuit, LED illuminated instrument needles, and a solid state heater control conversion. When I got everything back together everything worked as it should Woo-Hoo!
Then, on Tuesday morning I hopped in the car to go to work, turned on the lights and Poof! The instrument lights went out along with the L/H marker lights. Two separate circuits-Hmmm. Of course my first thought was that something I did was shorting and blowing fuses. The first thing I did was check a couple of circuits, rapidly exhausting my supply of 10A fuses, then drove to work.
When I got home I checked the net, and the first thing that popped up was a link to the MGF Register forum describing my exact issue. Turned out it was the famous "boot hinge fault". The wires that lead to the boot lid exit the main loom at a right angle, and over time the continual flexing of the wires cause them to break causing some truly bizarre faults in circuits throughout the car. Modern engineering!-Hmmmph!
Anyway, problem solved in half an hour, and this weekend I'll do all the wires and reroute the harness to try to minimise the flexing.
Thanks to the MGF Register and to Rob Bell who posted the solution!
If you have strange electrical issues it's worth checking.
Modern MGs aren't just Transportation, They're a Hobby!
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2014-04-23 07:06 PM by Rich in Vancouver.
Last weekend I swapped the MGF's dash, a job that included lots of electrical work, Instruments out, radio out, console swap with all new switches, installed an Electric power steering bypass circuit, LED illuminated instrument needles, and a solid state heater control conversion. When I got everything back together everything worked as it should Woo-Hoo!
Then, on Tuesday morning I hopped in the car to go to work, turned on the lights and Poof! The instrument lights went out along with the L/H marker lights. Two separate circuits-Hmmm. Of course my first thought was that something I did was shorting and blowing fuses. The first thing I did was check a couple of circuits, rapidly exhausting my supply of 10A fuses, then drove to work.
When I got home I checked the net, and the first thing that popped up was a link to the MGF Register forum describing my exact issue. Turned out it was the famous "boot hinge fault". The wires that lead to the boot lid exit the main loom at a right angle, and over time the continual flexing of the wires cause them to break causing some truly bizarre faults in circuits throughout the car. Modern engineering!-Hmmmph!
Anyway, problem solved in half an hour, and this weekend I'll do all the wires and reroute the harness to try to minimise the flexing.
Thanks to the MGF Register and to Rob Bell who posted the solution!
If you have strange electrical issues it's worth checking.
Modern MGs aren't just Transportation, They're a Hobby!
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2014-04-23 07:06 PM by Rich in Vancouver.
terreneuve
John Stevenson
|
Apr 23, 2014 08:53 PM
Joined 14 years ago
1,138 Posts
|
Rich,
Soon you will have more technical knowledge than Rob!
Maybe we should name your car "Project Carport"???
I vote you as Technical Advisor for the CMMGRCC!!
John
Most modern cars are boring, Modern MG Rovers are fun!!
Canadian Modern MG Rover Car Club
Check us out on Facebook!
A Canadian Club with a worldwide presence!!
Soon you will have more technical knowledge than Rob!
Maybe we should name your car "Project Carport"???
I vote you as Technical Advisor for the CMMGRCC!!
John
Most modern cars are boring, Modern MG Rovers are fun!!
Canadian Modern MG Rover Car Club
Check us out on Facebook!
A Canadian Club with a worldwide presence!!
Rich in Vancouver
Rich McKie
|
Topic Creator (OP)
Apr 23, 2014 09:20 PM
Joined 17 years ago
7,216 Posts
|
|
Moderator
Apr 24, 2014 06:18 AM
Joined 24 years ago
5,184 Posts
|
In reply to # 2670007 by Rich in Vancouver
Probably not a good idea John. I am teetering on the edge of insanity!
And that makes you different from the rest of us how?
Nice job Rich, but got no proof of ANY of this...
Good idea John. I'll go change Rich's title to Tech Advisor.
Canadian Modern MG Rover Car Club - www.cmmgrcc.com
MOWOG Garage serving the needs of all Post Abingdon MG owners in Lambton Co. since 2011.
|
Moderator
Apr 28, 2014 08:30 AM
Joined 24 years ago
5,184 Posts
|
Rich in Vancouver
Rich McKie
|
Topic Creator (OP)
Apr 28, 2014 08:34 AM
Joined 17 years ago
7,216 Posts
|
I cut and spliced all of the wires where they were kinked and the problem is gone. Everything is now working properly.
I tried to reroute the wires with no sharp bends and taped a heavy duty wire tie lengthways into the wire bundle
to try to prevent kinking. I am going to try to work out a better system though.
Modern MGs aren't just Transportation, They're a Hobby!
I tried to reroute the wires with no sharp bends and taped a heavy duty wire tie lengthways into the wire bundle
to try to prevent kinking. I am going to try to work out a better system though.
Modern MGs aren't just Transportation, They're a Hobby!
Apr 28, 2014 11:25 AM
Joined 10 years ago
327 Posts
|
Nice fix Rich! I am in a constant battle in my BMW wagon that has 4 looms in the tailgate, I choose to only open it if absolutely necessary now.
On a related not, I kept blowing the fuse in the brake light circuit of the green car, and naturally went to the boot loom to fix, but alas, all was good. Took a bit to find, but the wiring for the boot brake light was totally fried, all of the insulation was cooked of of the wires. In an effort to do a quick fix, I stole the light assembly from the Orange F only to find the insulation cooked off of those wires too!
So I rewired both, and all is good.
On a related not, I kept blowing the fuse in the brake light circuit of the green car, and naturally went to the boot loom to fix, but alas, all was good. Took a bit to find, but the wiring for the boot brake light was totally fried, all of the insulation was cooked of of the wires. In an effort to do a quick fix, I stole the light assembly from the Orange F only to find the insulation cooked off of those wires too!
So I rewired both, and all is good.
Rich in Vancouver
Rich McKie
|
Topic Creator (OP)
Apr 28, 2014 06:47 PM
Joined 17 years ago
7,216 Posts
|
Apr 28, 2014 08:43 PM
Joined 10 years ago
327 Posts
|
Rich in Vancouver
Rich McKie
|
Topic Creator (OP)
Apr 28, 2014 11:12 PM
Joined 17 years ago
7,216 Posts
|
Sean, I think I probably jinxed myself!
The brake light is working as it should so I am thinking that the fault may come from the instrument light circuit as I had the whole thing completely
apart to add the LED needle lighting. I am going to try to unplug the instrument panel to see if that solves the problem (not sure if I can get it unplugged in situ though!) . If it does that means that the instrument panel has to come back out. The other thing I am a bit suspicious of is the lighting connections in the console. I can remove the center vent to get access to the oil temp and clock, again unplugging them to see if they solve the fuse blowing. Last is the lighting for the heater dials, but that one may mean taking the center portion of the console out. My new stereo head unit should be here in the next couple of days so I will probably do the installation and checking of circuits this weekend.
Fortunately the fault doesn't make the car undriveable as I hardly ever need to drive it at night, so if It has to wait until after the ABFM that's no big deal.
I hate electrical problems!
Modern MGs aren't just Transportation, They're a Hobby!
The brake light is working as it should so I am thinking that the fault may come from the instrument light circuit as I had the whole thing completely
apart to add the LED needle lighting. I am going to try to unplug the instrument panel to see if that solves the problem (not sure if I can get it unplugged in situ though!) . If it does that means that the instrument panel has to come back out. The other thing I am a bit suspicious of is the lighting connections in the console. I can remove the center vent to get access to the oil temp and clock, again unplugging them to see if they solve the fuse blowing. Last is the lighting for the heater dials, but that one may mean taking the center portion of the console out. My new stereo head unit should be here in the next couple of days so I will probably do the installation and checking of circuits this weekend.
Fortunately the fault doesn't make the car undriveable as I hardly ever need to drive it at night, so if It has to wait until after the ABFM that's no big deal.
I hate electrical problems!
Modern MGs aren't just Transportation, They're a Hobby!
Forums
Having trouble posting or changing forum settings?
Read the Forum Help (FAQ) or contact the webmaster