MG Midget Forum

Put in points adjusted the gap between .014-.016 range, can only seem to get car going with a much larger gap, MUCH larger. Which doesn't seem quite right. A bit rusty at points, but also had mechanic friend help and same deal. Should I be looking somewhere else? Or just ditch the points and go electronic (which I will probably do at some time). The car is a '69.

Michel

Setting points is part art. First, you need a good, sound set. If in doubt, replace them. Then you need a sound way to get that power to the plug, so the rotor is next in line, then the cap, then the wires, then the plugs. If all of that is very good (or new), then it's on to setting the point's gap.

If you are under 40 years old, odds are very good you have never had to mess with points before. Welcome to a different era! LOL!

Look at the dizzy. There is a "square" cam on the distributor shaft. That cam is what opens and closes the points. Your points should be "normally open", and only close when they need to fire the spark plug, thus completing the electrical circuit. You want to check your air gap at the HIGHEST point on that square cam. You will need to turn the crank by by hand to get it JUST right.

Remember, if you have to turn your distributor to set the ignition timing, you will need to turn your crank too, to keep that highest point for the gap in relation. This is all for static timing, which is very important to have pretty good before you dynamic time your engine (with a timing light).

We haven't even gotten to dwell yet...

To your question, I'd bet you just aren't setting it correctly, and that's why you believe it only works best with the air gap being way larger than the factory spec.

Points setting and timing go together, right now your timing is to retarded and that's why you have to have a large gap.

Also, use a dwell meter to set the points. Its so easy to use a feeler gauge and push em open a few thou which can greatly effect dwell. I never use a feeler gauge cause you can just crank the car and set the dwell. Also unless your distributor is totally worn out and everything inside is falling apart loose, changing points should not effect timing. The point plate should be in the same place, and if timing does change it should only be a few degrees, unless the dizzy wasnt tight in the first place and it move completely

Mark

If the breaker plate is worn out, the points will be able to rock too much, and setting a larger gap is required to actually maintain a proper gap. The same thing happens if the shaft bushing is worn out.

This may help if you have a 25D distributor:
http://advanceddistributors.mybisi.com/product/new-breaker-plate-assembly-1-1

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jeff@advanceddistributors.com

Hey Jeff,

Thanks my man, you are the best!

I sent my distributor to Jeff and got it back in my 1962 Mk1. What a difference. Runs like a new car. I am still playing with the advance to see how much timing advance this 948 engine can tolerate. Right now I am at 14 degrees BTDC.

JEFF, YOU ATE THE MAN!

Robbie

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Rob Rossiter
AtRo Racing Products
55 Featherbed Lane
Branford, CT 06405
AtRoRacing@ Gmail.com

I like to pull the distributor out to replace the points, then I can check the advance mechanism clean and lubricate everything and get a good setting with a feeler gauge I have just dedicated to 25 and 45D distributors. It's just a .015 with a wrap of duct tape on it. Being just a single feeler, it gives a good feel to the tightness needed. Clean it with Brake Cleaner before touching the points. I also check it with a dwell meter when the engine is running. Don't forget to put a little grease on the rubbing block on the right side of the block so it will keep grease lubricating the block as the cam turns. If you don't the points will close up within 500miles. The distributor only goes in one way. Note before you take it out where it is set. The vacuum advance should be pointing just to the rear of spark plug #3. This will be close enough to get it running and then set the timing to spec with a light, vacuum advance disconnected and the fitting plugged at the intake manifold.

If there is more than a couple of degrees of dwell variation when the engine is revved then the distributor shaft and or the breaker plate is worn. It's an easy way to tell.

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Dan Wood
70BGT driver, OD, Pertronix, HS4's, Peco, .060 over, Elgin cam, Superlite wheels, poly bushings, panhard rod, rear tube shocks, 1" lowered front end, HD shock valves, etc, etc.
68 MGB rebuilt engine D9 cam balanced, still a work in process but runs real nice.
88 Saab SPG Turbo
86 Vanagon Westy (South African conversion engine 2.0 OHC 135HP) This car burnt to the ground. Bought another, same year and color but with a 2.4 Waterboxer.
2004 Dodge Ram 6sp with HO Cummins diesel
Lucas= Loose
Unsoldered
Connections
And
Splices

Jeff's a cannibal?

http://www.spridgetguru.com/TA0084.html

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Seth Jones

1971 MG Midget

www.SpridgetGuru.com

Just my two cents, but...
I'm 58, and grew up in the "points era." As far as I'm concerned, points are nothing but trouble. From the day you put in a new set,it's just a matter of time until the trouble arrives because of the nature of how points work. From the first day, they begin to deteriorate and continue to get worse and worse. It's just the nature of their operation, and nothing can be done about it. Entropy in action.
For about $100, the Pertronix electronic unit solves the problem for as long as you'll own the car. Install it and set the gap one time, and you are done. I put one in my '71 Midget in 1997, and have never touched it since. Simple to install, and from the outside, there's nothing to see. It looks stock.

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In 1974 when I was 18, I passed on buying a running and driving 1966 E-Type coupe for $1,500, which is what they were selling for at the time.
Fifty years later, I'm still kicking myself...

Thanks everyone for your input, ordered electronic ign. Forgot what a pain points were until now.

Michel,
Points may be a pain, but they don't leave you stranded. When electronics crap out you get to call the hook.
Rut

Good idea. Just note that if its a pertonix, they dont like to be left turned on with the engine not running. No no extended periods of leaving the key int he run position without the motor running. Keep a set of points in the glove box for kicks. The electronic setups are very reliable, but they do fail. not often, and they usually last for years and years, but its good to just have a set of points incase