MGB & GT Forum
Lowering Kit. What else to do?
Posted by stone4140
Topic Creator (OP)
Mar 19, 2018 11:26 AM
Joined 6 years ago
198 Posts
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I will be installing a 1" rear/front lowering kit pretty soon in my 78RB. I already have the kit. Just wondering what else should be updated while I'm in there? I've read bushings etc... If you have any suggestions can you add a link or be specific? I want to make sure I order the right parts before I've got it torn down. With 3 kids my time in the garage is sacred! I've looked at the bushing kits on Moss and they are pretty comprehensive and expensive. Not sure if I need to go that far...
Thanks
Thanks
Mar 19, 2018 12:07 PM
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Joined 18 years ago
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Mar 19, 2018 12:12 PM
Joined 18 years ago
8,982 Posts
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then look at places like Summit Racing!
1974-1/2 Roadster, "Bumble Bee", Corvette Yellow - in shambles, wire wheels
1976 Roadster, "Virus", Sandglow - "driver" condition (stock + 32/36 Weber DGEV, cast iron header, 25D distributor), bolt on wheels, ON the road!
1974-1/2 Roadster, "Bumble Bee", Corvette Yellow - in shambles, wire wheels
1976 Roadster, "Virus", Sandglow - "driver" condition (stock + 32/36 Weber DGEV, cast iron header, 25D distributor), bolt on wheels, ON the road!
jkabrown
Kenny Brown
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Mar 20, 2018 10:29 AM
Joined 14 years ago
1,624 Posts
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BFC
Ben Clark
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Mar 20, 2018 10:41 AM
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Joined 8 years ago
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I just redid my front and rear suspension this winter, lowering it an inch in the process.
1) Do the bushings. I used the SuperPro bushings, but almost ANY new bushings will be better than ones that are 30+ years old.
2) Replace the original nuts and bolts with grade 8 nuts and bolts from your local hardware store.
3) Replace the shocks with rebuilt units from Wordwide Auto parts. No leaking ever again.(Alternately, top up and clean your old shocks)
4) Inspect everything for rust. Especially your spring pans.
5) Sand and paint everything. Its mostly for looks, but it's also useful to tell which "bits" you've updated.
I don't know. It's always smoked like that/made that sound/done that.
1) Do the bushings. I used the SuperPro bushings, but almost ANY new bushings will be better than ones that are 30+ years old.
2) Replace the original nuts and bolts with grade 8 nuts and bolts from your local hardware store.
3) Replace the shocks with rebuilt units from Wordwide Auto parts. No leaking ever again.(Alternately, top up and clean your old shocks)
4) Inspect everything for rust. Especially your spring pans.
5) Sand and paint everything. Its mostly for looks, but it's also useful to tell which "bits" you've updated.
I don't know. It's always smoked like that/made that sound/done that.
Topic Creator (OP)
Mar 20, 2018 10:59 AM
Joined 6 years ago
198 Posts
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Mar 21, 2018 10:11 AM
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Joined 19 years ago
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Mar 21, 2018 12:06 PM
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In reply to # 3700578 by BFC
.
2) Replace the original nuts and bolts with grade 8 nuts and bolts from your local hardware store.
2) Replace the original nuts and bolts with grade 8 nuts and bolts from your local hardware store.
Why? Nylocks should be replaced, but even they are generally ok to reuse. The original stuff is usually better quality than the stuff available today. And sometimes it’s a particular length that you won’t be able to get at the hardware store, so the new stuff won’t look right.
Now, shiny gold hardware does look cool...and that’s a fine reason in itself.
1973 MGB: Blow through supercharged, intercooled, 10psi boost. VP12 cam, aluminum flywheel, 8.9:1 compression. Black label OD, Saab 15” minilites. Goes a lot better than it looks.
BFC
Ben Clark
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Mar 21, 2018 03:17 PM
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Joined 8 years ago
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In reply to # 3701285 by converse212
Why? Nylocks should be replaced, but even they are generally ok to reuse. The original stuff is usually better quality than the stuff available today. And sometimes it’s a particular length that you won’t be able to get at the hardware store, so the new stuff won’t look right.
Now, shiny gold hardware does look cool...and that’s a fine reason in itself.
In reply to # 3700578 by BFC
.
2) Replace the original nuts and bolts with grade 8 nuts and bolts from your local hardware store.
2) Replace the original nuts and bolts with grade 8 nuts and bolts from your local hardware store.
Why? Nylocks should be replaced, but even they are generally ok to reuse. The original stuff is usually better quality than the stuff available today. And sometimes it’s a particular length that you won’t be able to get at the hardware store, so the new stuff won’t look right.
Now, shiny gold hardware does look cool...and that’s a fine reason in itself.
Given the number of nuts I had to split to get my suspension apart, I figured I would go ahead and replace the nuts and bolts that I could. Some of them were fine, just rusty, but heck, I've had enough solid seeming bolts shear off when trying to remove various pieces from this car that I don't know that appearances are a great indicator. Thus, for my peace of mind and because it is really cheap to do, I replaced where I could.
And yes, nothing says "dig me, I redid my suspension!" like a bunch of shiny gold bolts and fresh black paint.
I don't know. It's always smoked like that/made that sound/done that.
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