MGB & GT Forum
Lower Control Arm Bushing - Seized/Stuck
Posted by stiffarm67
stiffarm67
Joe Herz
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Dec 8, 2016 07:55 PM
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Dec 8, 2016 08:17 PM
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Dremel and a cutoff wheel should take care of it. Once you carefully cut through the sleeve you should be able to split it off the pivot.
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There is a special place in hell for those who molest factory wiring
1975 Mineral Blue MGB Supercharged
1967 Tartanish Red MGB GT Supercharged
Restoration of the 75 MGB Click here
Restoration of the 67 MGB GT Click here
You Can't Prove It Won't Happen
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Dec 8, 2016 08:19 PM
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If that's just a rubber bushing, take it outside and take a torch to it.
Basil C. Adams
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Basil C. Adams
1956 MGA Coupe (Show Car)
1957 MGA Roadster (Driver)
1958 MGA Coupe (Racecar)
1959 MGA Coupe (unrestored)
1960 MGA Coupe (unrestored)
1960 MGA Roadster (Driver)
MKIII Elva Courier (E1056)
1967 427 Cobra
1972 Alfa Romeo Montreal
A coupla late MGBs
1960 Austin Healy BN7
More Cars than Brains
stiffarm67
Joe Herz
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Dec 8, 2016 08:24 PM
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Donthuis
Don van Riet
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Dec 9, 2016 08:59 AM
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You may try to soak it in 50/50 ATF/Acetone solution overnight first. I have one V8 bush stuck on the lower wisbone position myself. One should really put copper slip on the stud first, but my garage mounted it without. But I know for sure that for removal he would use heat straightaway, garage mechs have no time for soaking and use torches much sooner than we do
PS As always also JT has a video on YouTube how to loosen either unequal metals or equal metals by heat. If memory serves me right unequal ones should be heated and then "shocked" loose by fast cooling in water. Equal ones like your wishbone stud and suspension inner bush should just be heated until they let go. Of course the rubber should burn off first, smelly!...
Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 2016-12-09 09:02 AM by Donthuis.
PS As always also JT has a video on YouTube how to loosen either unequal metals or equal metals by heat. If memory serves me right unequal ones should be heated and then "shocked" loose by fast cooling in water. Equal ones like your wishbone stud and suspension inner bush should just be heated until they let go. Of course the rubber should burn off first, smelly!...
Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 2016-12-09 09:02 AM by Donthuis.
Dec 9, 2016 09:15 AM
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stiffarm67
Joe Herz
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Dec 9, 2016 12:26 PM
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stiffarm67
Joe Herz
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Topic Creator (OP)
Dec 9, 2016 12:32 PM
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Cheap is a relative term. Those control arm pivot blocks are ~$50/. In my book $10 is cheap
In reply to # 3409044 by LowCarbs
Another option if you feel like you've invested too much time in this part is to purchase new parts. Everything in your picture is available for fairly cheap.
Dec 9, 2016 01:03 PM
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This is the down side with the V8 bushings. Unless all the rubber is removed, heat is going to be a nasty, smoky mess. I'd go with patience and the dremel. You don't have to cut all the way through the sleeve thickness. Slice it, then use a chisel to split it. That way there is less likelihood of damaging the pivot.
Dec 9, 2016 01:08 PM
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Dec 9, 2016 01:15 PM
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In reply to # 3409156 by stiffarm67
Bruce,
There is a metal sleeve in this bushing. Going with heat plus Dremel.
There is a metal sleeve in this bushing. Going with heat plus Dremel.
Sorry for the bad advice, I didn't realize/uderstand this was a V8 type bush. Carry on with your technique of heat & Dremel cutting.
Hopefully your pivot has not suffered.
B
Life's most persistent and urgent question is, "What are you doing for others?"
dipstick
Kenny Snyder (RIP)
La Center, WA, USA
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Dec 9, 2016 02:36 PM
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I suspect you may not be pleased with the condition of the pivot arm surface. Also, my experience is that often times the ends of the pivot arms are bent. You can chuck one end of the pivot arm in the lathe, spin it SLOWLY, and check for excessive runout. Check the pivot arm to subframe bolts because sometimes they are stretched and/or bent. If replacing with steel sleeve bushings use anti-seize inside the tubes and on the pivots. If using poly smear silicone inside and out; I have a tub of Energy Suspension silicone.
Be safe out there.
Kenny
Be safe out there.
Kenny
stiffarm67
Joe Herz
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Dec 9, 2016 03:23 PM
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Thanks for the words of wisdom, Kenny. Had planned to replace all fasteners and will check runout on the pivot arms. What would you consider excessive? I am worried about what that seized one is going to look like after I get the steel sleeve off....
In reply to # 3409248 by dipstick
I suspect you may not be pleased with the condition of the pivot arm surface. Also, my experience is that often times the ends of the pivot arms are bent. You can chuck one end of the pivot arm in the lathe, spin it SLOWLY, and check for excessive runout. Check the pivot arm to subframe bolts because sometimes they are stretched and/or bent. If replacing with steel sleeve bushings use anti-seize inside the tubes and on the pivots. If using poly smear silicone inside and out; I have a tub of Energy Suspension silicone.
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