MGB & GT Forum
Fuel Line Suggestions
Posted by drx10
Topic Creator (OP)
Oct 30, 2014 06:51 AM
Joined 15 years ago
370 Posts
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I have a 1970 MGB roadster that I am at the final task of a four year long complete rebuild, the fuel line!
I have purchased from Moss the new lines that connect the gases tank to the fuel pump and the braided flex line from the fuel pump to "something".
Any suggestions on materials? Copper Nickel, fuel injection flex line, braided hose?
Does anyone have a diagraph that shows the vent line location? I can't find one on the internet.
I am running a Weber 32/36, do I need a "fuel return line"? I have seen them referenced in other conversations.
The engine is also "desmogged".
Thanks in advance.
I have purchased from Moss the new lines that connect the gases tank to the fuel pump and the braided flex line from the fuel pump to "something".
Any suggestions on materials? Copper Nickel, fuel injection flex line, braided hose?
Does anyone have a diagraph that shows the vent line location? I can't find one on the internet.
I am running a Weber 32/36, do I need a "fuel return line"? I have seen them referenced in other conversations.
The engine is also "desmogged".
Thanks in advance.
Oct 30, 2014 07:32 AM
Joined 20 years ago
11,349 Posts
|
When I rebuilt Camilla, the '72 I needed a new fuel line. I found some 5/16" brake line and bought 4 of the longest they had - 72" IIRC. I used brass compression fittings for both the fuel & vapor return lines. Worked well, and wasn't expensive.
The vapor return runs along side the fuel, brake, and + battery cable under the car on the right side.
I use SU carbs - I don't think you need a vapor return with a Weber, but the charcoal canister also serves the to ventilate the rocker cover.
Jim K is a grease-stained wretch
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2014-10-30 07:33 AM by Jim K.
The vapor return runs along side the fuel, brake, and + battery cable under the car on the right side.
I use SU carbs - I don't think you need a vapor return with a Weber, but the charcoal canister also serves the to ventilate the rocker cover.
Jim K is a grease-stained wretch
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2014-10-30 07:33 AM by Jim K.
Topic Creator (OP)
Oct 30, 2014 07:59 AM
Joined 15 years ago
370 Posts
|
James,
Thanks for the feedback.
You used standard compression fittings? I thought these fittings on the fuel pump were some kind of British fitting, hard to find in the US?
By the way, your engine compartment is kind of dirty.... should work on cleaning that up!!!
Just joking!!! It is beautiful!!!!
Mine is not that nice.
Thanks for the feedback.
You used standard compression fittings? I thought these fittings on the fuel pump were some kind of British fitting, hard to find in the US?
By the way, your engine compartment is kind of dirty.... should work on cleaning that up!!!
Just joking!!! It is beautiful!!!!
Mine is not that nice.
Oct 30, 2014 08:32 AM
Joined 20 years ago
11,349 Posts
|
I used standard compression fittings to extend the length of the line. When I made the line from the tank to the pump, I salvaged the original fittings by applying a torch to them, and sweat-soldered them back on the new line. I used the original line as a template to get the bends.
*smile* Yeah - I get a little sloppy on occasion! Thanks.
Jim K is a grease-stained wretch
*smile* Yeah - I get a little sloppy on occasion! Thanks.
Jim K is a grease-stained wretch
supernatural
jean gagne
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Oct 30, 2014 09:40 AM
Joined 14 years ago
535 Posts
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The use of braided hose goes beyond "bling" but care in the selection of the material is critical. The preferred compatible material for ALL automotive fluids is TFE "teflon". Next, for gasoline/ethanol would be butyl rubber "buna N". Plain rubber as offered by most equipment suppliers and should be avoided like the plague as the rubber deteriorates rapidly "several months to years" and leads to untraceable leaks of a potential flammable.
Cheers
Eschew the dominating paradigm -me
because
When you buy the ticket, you take the ride -Hunter S. Thompson
Cheers
Eschew the dominating paradigm -me
because
When you buy the ticket, you take the ride -Hunter S. Thompson
Oct 30, 2014 11:47 AM
Joined 18 years ago
7,282 Posts
|
The proper fittings at the tank and the fuel pump are 1/4 British Standard Pipe Parallel (not a tapered fitting). James' approach is the best way to get the fittings, although Moss carries them (albeit expensive). As for the flexible line, I use 5/16 ID fuel injection hose. I don't line the braided hoses for the simple fact that you can't see the condition of the hose under the braid.
Cheers,
Dave DuBois
1953 MGTD
1966 MGB
http://homepages.donobi.net/sufuelpumps/
Cheers,
Dave DuBois
1953 MGTD
1966 MGB
http://homepages.donobi.net/sufuelpumps/
Oct 30, 2014 12:13 PM
Top Contributor
Joined 18 years ago
17,656 Posts
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Modern fuel injection hose for the flex parts. Expensive compared to cheap rubber fuel hose.
I'm not a big fan of externally braided hoses, they tend to chafe themselves and/or other parts.
As noted, salvage as much of the old fittings as practical.
I would not run a flex line of any type the length of the undercarriage, too much exposure to road debris.
DO NOT run the lines inside the passenger compartment.
Fewer fittings the better.
Your state's vehicle inspection laws might also be a consideration, especially the vapor recovery system.
I'm not a big fan of externally braided hoses, they tend to chafe themselves and/or other parts.
As noted, salvage as much of the old fittings as practical.
I would not run a flex line of any type the length of the undercarriage, too much exposure to road debris.
DO NOT run the lines inside the passenger compartment.
Fewer fittings the better.
Your state's vehicle inspection laws might also be a consideration, especially the vapor recovery system.
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