MG Midget Forum

My 75 Midget has this gawdawful push-button key release that never works first time.
I sit and fuss and cuss at it, and then it magically comes out with ease.

Don't like it! It's a devil intended to piss me off, and then it acts like nothing is the matter.

I have tried to reason with it.
Tried to be patient and loving and calm.
Tried the rational approach -- turn the key, push the hidden button, then pull the key.
Tried to push the button, then turn the key, then try to pull it out.
Nah.
Nothing works.
And then suddenly, the key comes out like, "hey, what's your fkn problem??"

Surely, this ought to be a directly simple swap with a non-column locking cylinder -- who the heck is going to steal my car anyway?

Has anyone tried a simpler ignition switch?

Thanks.

Is that something that all 1500's were supposed to have? Mine doesn't have that. You simply push the key in to turn it than pull it out. Occasionally it sticks but that's because the key is worn.

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If you never try to do it You will never be able to do it

There is small button on the ring around the key. I remember it from my 74. You kinda have to push it with our right thumbnail as you are turn the key the last notch, then remove the key. If that button isn't working correctly then change out the ignition switch. The later ignition switches are different but I think they will work on your column.

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Jere McSparran
JMAC Engine Shop
Website: http://www.jmacengineshop.com
email: jmacengineshop@gmail.com
Phone: 217-232-7303

I wonder if you could take the switch to a lock smith and have them remove the "safety feature". It is meant to prevent you from accidentally locking the steering wheel while the car is in motion.

Mine is the same way. If I'm sitting in the drivers seat it works great. If I'm just reaching into the car it fights me. I guess it is a muscle memory type thing.

Maybe a shot of lock lube will help. You could always wire a generic ignition in, maybe in the console. You would leave the now non functional key in to keep steering unlocked.

I'll try the lube, and then maybe spent 30 minutes trying to take it out and apart, and then do like you suggest: just bypass the darn thing and put in a simple switch -- maybe even hide it somewhere as an anti-theft device.

Taking it out is another MG exp. After finally getting the cover off there are two anti-theft bolts to deal with. You may be able to cut a slot in them with a dremel and use a screwdriver

To remove the column needs to be disconnected from the steering rack. The three bolts where the column passes through the firewall need to be removed. Then the three bolts that hold the column under the dash needs to be removed. Then slide the column out a bit and take the screws out of the shroud. Remove the shroud and undo the security bolts as mentioned above.

or ... try and learn to live with it.

removing the column is a hassle, but it is in the way for so many jobs (replacing gauges, accessing the LH engine mount, accessing ANYthing related to the column wiring) that you'll get the knack for removing it and get so you can whip it out in only a few minutes after a while

once it is on the workbench, then remove the plastic cowlling (you can leave the steering wheel on, or remove it before pulling the column, I just leave it on all of the time) and then remove the key cylinder

as mentioned above, you could go to all of the trouble of using a dremmel to cut a nice groove in those antitheft bolts, or you can do it very quickly and simply by clamping the column in a vice with those fasteners facing up in a convenient orientation, take a sharp chisel and a small hammer and tap, tap, tap the bolts out, pushing from the perimeter, cut a little gouge first with the chisel straight down and then angle it and "push" the bolt around with your hammer taps. It sounds harder than it is. They aren't torqued all that tight and usually aren't too badly corroded (use penetrating oil overnight just in case). Each time I've done this, to my own cars or to parts in the junk yard, once an old mechanic showed me how to do it, its worked like a charm, first time.

Then, when re-installing the cylinder to the column, use hex socket cap screws instead.


Norm

Thanks big to Phil, Trev and Norm.
Great details.
It does look like the kind of project that will have to wait until I get more major problems addressed -- and in the meantime, get used to it.
OR, I could take it to the East Side, and have some criminal pour liquid nitrogen in the hole and yank it all out....