MG Midget Forum

Im trying to get the needle out of the HS2 carb so I can give Joe Curto the number but it seems stuck,i have removed the brass needle locking screw does it just pull out or do I need to tap it down from inside the tube?

If you're buying a new one anyway............ pliers/vise-grips/vise. BTDT

Thanks Peter so it does just pull down then

Yes. There are swing needles that are spring loaded on later cars, and solid earlier needles. Be sure you have the screw all of the way out. Just tell Joe AN

I clamp the needle in a vise between two bits of pine board such that there is room to slip screw drivers (i mean pry bars) between the pine and the piston. Then I gently pry the piston up evenly. Don't drop the piston and get it all dinged up.

Thanks Trevor

Not meaning to hi-jack, but since we are talking needles, why are the needles on my red car spring loaded?

One of the difficulties with earlier cars could be that the pistons could become stuck if the needle and jet were slightly misaligned. Remember the top needle diameter might be . 087" and the jet is .090". If the needle is spring loaded, then that won't happen. The difference in diameters doesn't have to be in the middle of the hole. Make it much more reliable. Also, if it is slightly misaligned, it won't oval the jet hole or wear the needle as easily. There's not much spring pressure.

I would build an HS2 with solid butterflies and swing needles if I could get the needle profile I wanted with swing needles.

Peter c

AN is a solid needle, so if theses are biased needle HS2 carbs, you'll need the brass adapters to convert from a biased needle carbs to a solid needles, and Joe has those as well. Solid needles are a little hard harder to set up and center, but there is a tip for this as well, I always try to use the later HS2 jet bushings that fit the hole in bridge a bit tighter, and mostly self center themselves, your carbs Andy probably already have these jet bearings. I would also suggest you switch to the solid butterflies as well, Joe has them too.

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Hap Waldrop
Acme Speed Shop
864-370-3000
Website: www.acmespeedshop.com
hapwaldrop@acmespeedshop.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2014-09-18 07:00 AM by Speedracer.

Hey Hap thanks all I know is the needles have springs, I will be giving Joe a call as I really don't know what I have

I am rebuilding my SU HS2 AUD 549 carbs on my 74 Midget. I bought a master rebuild kit from Moss. So I pulled one of the needles out easily but the other one broke off. Any ideas how I can get the rest of it out now?

Also, the needles that Moss sent with the kit are quite a bit longer and have a wide flange type thing on the end. The old ones are just a needle with a bit wider end where it goes into the housing..
Did it get the right needles? I definitely got the right kit.

Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Dennis

That's a tough one regarding the broken off needle. I just rebuilt my H1 carbs, and had one stuck needle, but some penetrating oil and a drill chuck for my lathe made easy work of it. I imagine Hap will have some further ideas on extraction, but I suppose you could use a tiny drill bit to start on the material left. Hopefully, if your bit is small enough to drill a hole in the needle, it'll break loose under the pressure of the bit itself. I don't know if they make easy-outs that small. Of course, this drilling would be best in a mill where one can work very precisely, but I might have once tried it with a dremel (now I have a mill). A little heat *might* do it, since the two metals will have different (with Al just slightly more expansive than brass) rates of expansion, it could also liquify whatever gunk held the needle in there to begin with.

Oh, and check the code on the needle you pulled out, then go look up a needle chart for your car. Good luck with the extraction.