MGB & GT Forum
1980 mgb not starting
Posted by dgpw54
Topic Creator (OP)
Oct 30, 2014 11:32 AM
Joined 9 years ago
4 Posts
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the engine cranks, it is getting fuel and there is spark, although I'm not sure if the spark is trong enough. I've replaced the plugs, coil, distributor cap and rotor. I also have new wires to put on. A mechanic said the distributor amplifier boxes get fried and that was most likely the problem. A new Petronix distributor is $200 and I found a Petronix amplfier for about $150. I hate to order not knowing if that's the problem. Could it be the ignition switch?
Oct 30, 2014 11:58 AM
Top Contributor
Joined 18 years ago
17,656 Posts
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Dave,
Your 1980 model in stock condition will have two paths to provide ignition voltage. +12VDC thru the cranking circuit and 6-8 volts thru a ballast wire circuit with the ignition "On". Check voltage at cranking and at the "On" position.
The coil you have replaced should be a 1.5 ohm unit in conjunction with the ballast wire. If your ballast circuit has been bypassed you would use a 3 ohm coil. The correct combination is important.
Many of the later cars with the OPUS type ignitions tend to get replaced or modified.
Are you getting any popping or backfiring?
After cranking without starting, what is the condition of the sparkplugs? Are they wet with fuel? If dry, you may have a carb issue.
What carb(s) are on the car?
Your 1980 model in stock condition will have two paths to provide ignition voltage. +12VDC thru the cranking circuit and 6-8 volts thru a ballast wire circuit with the ignition "On". Check voltage at cranking and at the "On" position.
The coil you have replaced should be a 1.5 ohm unit in conjunction with the ballast wire. If your ballast circuit has been bypassed you would use a 3 ohm coil. The correct combination is important.
Many of the later cars with the OPUS type ignitions tend to get replaced or modified.
Are you getting any popping or backfiring?
After cranking without starting, what is the condition of the sparkplugs? Are they wet with fuel? If dry, you may have a carb issue.
What carb(s) are on the car?
Oct 30, 2014 12:01 PM
Top Contributor
Joined 14 years ago
12,664 Posts
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Dave,
Can you post a pic of your coil, the box under it, and distributor?
Pogo is right.
—————————————————————-
The power of reasons is an illusion. The belief will not change when the reasons are defeated. The causality is reversed. People believe the reasons because they believe in the conclusion.
Can you post a pic of your coil, the box under it, and distributor?
Pogo is right.
—————————————————————-
The power of reasons is an illusion. The belief will not change when the reasons are defeated. The causality is reversed. People believe the reasons because they believe in the conclusion.
glbishop
Gary Bishop
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Oct 30, 2014 12:54 PM
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Joined 12 years ago
2,583 Posts
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Make sure that it's actually the ignition box. The OPUS system attaches to the side of the distributor. The newer CEI box sits under the ignition coil.
If your CEI ignition box sits under the coil then you can replace the GM (or aftermarket) 4 pin ignition module inside it for about $20.
Here's a look inside the CEI box.
P.S. The GM style module is not likely to go bad.
Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 2014-10-30 01:18 PM by glbishop.
If your CEI ignition box sits under the coil then you can replace the GM (or aftermarket) 4 pin ignition module inside it for about $20.
Here's a look inside the CEI box.
P.S. The GM style module is not likely to go bad.
Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 2014-10-30 01:18 PM by glbishop.
Oct 30, 2014 01:33 PM
Joined 12 years ago
2,763 Posts
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Any chance you might have a buddy or fellow club member around who happens to have a spare 25D dist. laying around? If so, pop it in and see what happens. If it starts, then it is likely your electronic dist. is fried. If not, it's something else.
RAY 67 TOURER
Ray Marloff
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Oct 30, 2014 02:50 PM
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Joined 14 years ago
17,490 Posts
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If your car has the original ignition system it is basically the same unit that was used by GM. It' a very reliable system and the most common fault, after many years of use, is a failure in the module as pictured above. Avoid replacing your ignition system with the Pertronix unit. They are made in China to a very low standard. RAY
Oct 30, 2014 06:19 PM
Top Contributor
Joined 13 years ago
13,194 Posts
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In reply to # 2838459 by RAY 67 TOURER
Avoid replacing your ignition system with the Pertronix unit. They are made in China to a very low standard. RAY
Yeah, my Pertronix only has 40k trouble free miles on it so I'm sure it will fail sometime.
C'mon Ray, what did you use to form your negative opinion?
“Ideological certainty easily degenerates into an insistence upon ignorance". Daniel Patrick Moynihan
In any debate, the side which strays from civil discussion is usually the side that lacks confidence in its debate position or in the merit of their arguments. Making personal attacks on the opponents instead of staying on the subject is also a sign of weakness.
Anyone who feels compelled to respond in kind to any perceived slight is often suffering from narcissism.
Topic Creator (OP)
Oct 31, 2014 11:00 AM
Joined 9 years ago
4 Posts
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Topic Creator (OP)
Nov 1, 2014 04:29 PM
Joined 9 years ago
4 Posts
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Thanks Ray. I found a GM unit on Rock Auto. Do you know where I can get a distributor cap clip? As bad luck would have it, I dropped it and of course cannot find it anywhere in the engine bay. It is not on the garage floor. I checked all parts outlets including ebay and can't find one. Thanks. DAVE
Topic Creator (OP)
Nov 1, 2014 04:34 PM
Joined 9 years ago
4 Posts
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Yes, that is exactly what I have. I found a GM unit at Rock Auto. I can drill out the rivets and attached the new one. Do you know if I'd need to replace the resistor (cylinder shaped unit in box)? Also, as dumb luck would have it, I dropped a distributor cap clif and can't find it. Not on the floor and have looked all over engine bay. Do you know where I can get a replacement? I've checked all the normal parts sources. Thanks Dave
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