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T-Series & Prewar Forum

rear leaf springs ,,,,,,, removal ,,,, solved

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MGB777 Avatar
MGB777 Tim Smith
Oregon, IL, USA   USA
1952 MG TD "The "Abbey"
1960 Triumph TR3A "Patch's"
1975 MG Midget 1500 "Little Bro"
1977 MG MGB "Big Brother"    & more
I was bored so I spent most of the day on the shop floor looking up at my under carriage. One side came off fairly easy with a lot of penetrating oil soaking while the other side is still fighting me. Why did the engineer build the car around the front mounting bolt ??

Bolt is stuck in the bushing sleeve and won't budge ....... how do you guys handle this issue ?? confused smiley



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-01-14 07:56 PM by MGB777.

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gwnorth Gold Member Tom Moore
Bolton Ouest, Quebec, Canada   CAN
1955 MG TF 1500
1972 MG MGB
I lucked out, both mine are not seized in the bushing. Might be able to cut the bolt with a grinder cutting wheel both ends and gently spread the ears of the bracket to pull the spring out?

MGB777 Avatar
MGB777 Tim Smith
Oregon, IL, USA   USA
1952 MG TD "The "Abbey"
1960 Triumph TR3A "Patch's"
1975 MG Midget 1500 "Little Bro"
1977 MG MGB "Big Brother"    & more
As you well know it's a tight fit for any cutting tool ...... I see the guys on TV use those cutting wheels all the time but never in a tough spot. Maybe my sawzall if I'm careful ,,,,,,,, not looking forward to it. confused smiley

But hey ,,,,, it's a winter project and winter has just started ,,,got lots of time,,,,,,, cool smiley

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LaVerne Avatar
LaVerne LaVerne Downey
Fruita, CO, USA   USA
1954 MG TF "Green Hornet"
1969 MG MGB
You just need to remove a few bits so you can get at it. grinning smiley

Seriously, put a butane torch to the bolt until its cherry red and then use a pry bar and a block of wood and push it in towards the frame. Keep the flame away from the floor and the tub.


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gwnorth Gold Member Tom Moore
Bolton Ouest, Quebec, Canada   CAN
1955 MG TF 1500
1972 MG MGB
Yes, a couple of heating (red hot) cycles might pop the rust and allow you to lever it out.
I have a couple of hi speed grinding tools (air & electric) that can use 3" thin cut-off discs that I was thinking I might use on mine if the bolts were a problem.
Eastwood has a long handled air driven cut-off tool p/n 51680 that would be just the thing. Always wanted one. (Never met a tool I didn't like).

Rod782 Avatar
Rod782 Silver Member Rod Jones
Port Charlotte, Ex Pat now in Florida, USA   USA
1953 MG TD
As one of the "I don't want to burn down the garage brigade" or "Wish I had worn my safety glasses"
Try to flush it with Hydraulic fluid and keep it wet for a couple of days But don't get any on the paintwork.
You could also try other penetrating oils
Might be slow but definitely less violent.


Rod

Sam Suffi Avatar
Sam Suffi Malcolm McConnachy
Littlehampton, West Sussex, UK   GBR
In reply to # 3661407 by MGB777 Why did the engineer build the car around the front mounting bolt ??


Probably the same engineer who designed the designed the practically inaccessible master cylinder and pedal box.

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HERBSTER1 Avatar
HERBSTER1 Silver Member John Stark
Pleasant Prairie, WI, USA   USA
1950 MG TD "Trudy"
Just completed my spring restoration last month. Like you one side came out easily. The other side required a sawzall

Ian Williams Avatar
Ian Williams Ian W
Chipping Longjourney, Toofarupnorth, UK   GBR
Angle grinder (if you can get to the bolt) this will also introduce some heat for when you drift the remainder of the bolt out.. or hacksaw blade and just cut the bolt... this will take a while, but when all other options run out.....



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-01-14 03:22 PM by Ian Williams.

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MGB777 Avatar
MGB777 Tim Smith
Oregon, IL, USA   USA
1952 MG TD "The "Abbey"
1960 Triumph TR3A "Patch's"
1975 MG Midget 1500 "Little Bro"
1977 MG MGB "Big Brother"    & more
I might try the lesser of all evils and hit it with the sawzall .......... less sparks and no open flames.

There is rubber on the silentbloc that will catch on fire along with the penetrating oil and the wood frame,, etc. My fire extinguisher might not be up to date ??

TD4834 Avatar
TD4834 Bill Chasser
Sacramento, CA, USA   USA
Use a 4” cutoff wheel or SawsAll and go straight up between the chassis bracket and the leaf spring. Cut through the block and the bolt. You may have to do both side of the spring to get it loose. Have a garden hose with a nozzle to quench any rubber that may burn if using a cutoff wheel. Also wear eye protection as chips will be falling upon you You’ll be replacing the silent blocks anyway and bolts available from usual sources. Note that Moss does not supply a BSF replacement for that position.

Bill Chasser
TD-4834

Bill Chasser
TD-4834.

MGB777 Avatar
MGB777 Tim Smith
Oregon, IL, USA   USA
1952 MG TD "The "Abbey"
1960 Triumph TR3A "Patch's"
1975 MG Midget 1500 "Little Bro"
1977 MG MGB "Big Brother"    & more
I called on Mr. De Walt to help me ,,,,,,,, short blade and some patience got the job done but not without a fight.

No sparks or flames needed ,,,,,,,, Even after the bolt was cut off I still needed to press out the frozen sleeve with the remains of the bolt.

Thanks for all the suggestions ,,,,,,, especially Mr. Downey ,,,,grinning smiley,,,,,, if only I could afford to go that far. thumbs up


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TD4834 Avatar
TD4834 Bill Chasser
Sacramento, CA, USA   USA
When you put it back together coat the bolt shank with neversieze before you install it

Bill Chasser
TD-4834

LaVerne Avatar
LaVerne LaVerne Downey
Fruita, CO, USA   USA
1954 MG TF "Green Hornet"
1969 MG MGB
Glad to be of help grinning smiley

This is the 4th car I've dealt with those bolts.... I always have to remind myself not to put them in backwards at this stage or you cannot get them out with the tub on. But I guess you proved me wrongsmileys with beer


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MGB777 Avatar
MGB777 Tim Smith
Oregon, IL, USA   USA
1952 MG TD "The "Abbey"
1960 Triumph TR3A "Patch's"
1975 MG Midget 1500 "Little Bro"
1977 MG MGB "Big Brother"    & more
I would love to have my chassis look like that but at this point in my life it ain't going to happen . I did remove the rear splash panel to separate the shackle plate from the pin as the two outside plates were stuck on by the rubber. And I'm glad that the bolts for the front pivot weren't in backwards or both sides would have had to be cut off.

Another thing I noticed that the spring set on the drivers side has been replaced. They have different looking holding clips with a rivet holding the leaf's together. The passenger side has the bracket with the bolt. While waiting for parts now I can clean things up a bit underneath and probably find something else to fiddle with. :>winking smiley

And everything gets a coat of never seize for the next guy who gets to deal with her after me thumbs up......

Thanks again everyone !!

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