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Ecoboost Swap

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Jeepstang Avatar
Jeepstang Gary Alvino
Beverly Hills, FL, USA   USA
Hi all,
There has been discussion on this forum but up till now I hadn't seen an actual installation attempt with this engine.
So I finally picked up a 2.0 Ecoboost engine and Miata 5 speed transmission and began the swap. Yesterday I did a preliminary fitment of the engine just to see for myself what will be involved.
As warned by another forum member the biggest obstacle to overcome is the placement of the turbocharger compressor charge air outlet, it faces directly at the frame and crossmember.
There are no other compressor housings on the market that would point the outlet forward so my plan is to cut off the outlet and weld a tight radius 90 degree elbow on the housing.
The heater box shelf will need to be trimmed a couple inches for high pressure fuel line and water manifold clearance. There is plenty of room for fabricating motor mounts and welding to the frame rails.
Best of all the front crossmember will not need to be modified, I'm waiting for my Ford Performance North-South Orientation Kit to arrive which includes a rear sump oil pan but with the stock pan installed it clears the crossmember.

I know Bill Guzman and Rob C have discussed this swap and I welcome their input or any other members who are experienced with turbocharger mods.
Gary

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mstemp Avatar
mstemp Silver Member Mike Stemp
Calgary, AB, Canada   CAN
First off, I love this potential swap!!!

Can't tell in the photo but could you not come straight out the inner fender with the charge air outlet, through the wheel well, then forward to your inter-cooler? Or is it preventing the motor from dropping down low enough and hanging up on the rail?

Jeepstang Avatar
Jeepstang Gary Alvino
Beverly Hills, FL, USA   USA
Hi Mike,
Oh how I wish, that was my hope at first.
The engine still needs to be lowered a couple inches at least, I can get the compressor outlet past the frame rail going downward but first I need to cut the firewall to clear the fuel line as shown.
At the position it sits now fore & aft the shifter is in exactly the same location as the stock MGB shifter.
It is an exciting swap but definitely not an easy one, lots of in and outs.
Gary

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scott68B Avatar
scott68B Scott Costanzo
Central, OH, USA   USA
1968 MG MGB "GM 5.3 LS4 V8"
Looking forward to watching your progress.

Does it look like it will fit under the stock hood?

Jeepstang Avatar
Jeepstang Gary Alvino
Beverly Hills, FL, USA   USA
Won't know till I trim back the firewall but I do believe there's an MGC bonnet in my future.

ohlord Avatar
ohlord Gold Member Rob C
North of Seattle, N.W., USA   USA
1957 Land Rover Series I "EYEYIYI"
1971 MG MGB
1971 MG MGB "Bedouin 2"
Notched frame
Positioned turbo outlet
MGC no frame Dave Craddock bonnet 6lbs. Total wt.
QuickTime T5 bellhousing adapter
Heater box and shelf completely removed, running under dash vintage air gen2 mini hearer with electric servo controlled heater valve.



"I'm a long way gone down this wild road I'm on
It's gonna take me where I'm bound
It's a long way around"



"These are the days that must happen to you"

RD2 Radar/ Electronic Warfare Technician
Vietnam 1969-1972



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-08-15 02:29 PM by ohlord.


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rsdgeorge rocky g
Olive Branch, MS, USA   USA
1976 MG MGB
I would love to see pictures of the heater installation. I removed my heater to make life easier and also because I removed the door glass to make a roadster, plan is to make removable side curtains similar to the MGA and early Healeys.

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Jeepstang Avatar
Jeepstang Gary Alvino
Beverly Hills, FL, USA   USA
Well,
I guess I spoke to soon, after cutting the heater shelf and reinstalling the engine lower than before the front cover now contacts the crossmember. I will have to notch it for clearance.

Rob C,
Thanks for your input, where my engine is positioned the compressor outlet is directly inboard of the aft crossmember bolt, there isn't much that can be notched out of the frame rail there.
I'm using a Miata transmission and where the engine is now falling into place is just about right for shifter location and the HPFP fuel rail line is about a half inch from the firewall above the heater shelf.
If you could post a photo of your outlet location and/or the frame rail notch that would be great.
Gary


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Jeepstang Avatar
Jeepstang Gary Alvino
Beverly Hills, FL, USA   USA
Update,
Notched crossmember and reinstalled engine, it may need a little tweaking but the position is just about right. Bonnet clearance looks close,
I won't be able to tell exactly until engine is permanently mounted.
Gary

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Jim Blackwood Avatar
Jim Blackwood * BlownMGB-V8
Gunpowder Rd., USA   USA
I'd suggest making your notch a bit bigger than it needs to be. At least 1/2" clearance all around, and you might as well dimple the front for more pulley clearance while you are at it. It'll help a lot later on.

Jim

Jeepstang Avatar
Jeepstang Gary Alvino
Beverly Hills, FL, USA   USA
Jim,
I'm going to open it up more, you know the story, easier to remove material then add it back on.
The pulley picture posted is deceiving, that pulley is sitting about an 1" above the crossmember, the stock MGB engine I removed had the pulley lower edge 3/4" above the crossmember.
I'm also thinking about offsetting the engine to the left a bit for more turbo clearance on the right frame rail, lots of variables to deal with on this swap.
Gary

Jeepstang Avatar
Jeepstang Gary Alvino
Beverly Hills, FL, USA   USA
Progress report,
I got the Ford Performance North-South Orientation Kit which included the rear sump oil pan & pickup, intake manifold, fwd facing coolant pipe and a other small parts.
Swapped the intake and coolant pipe and reinstalled engine. Soon found out the back end of the intake required cutting into the steering shaft housing at the firewall for clearance.
In addition, the engine cannot be placed as low as I wanted because the steering shaft coupler comes into contact with the bottom of the intake manifold. It's not bad where it sits but the front of the engine
will be above the hood line requiring at least an MGC bonnet, no getting around that.
Next step is to reinstall the engine with the transmission attached for a test fit, fabricate motor mounts, (still not sure what style to go with, I could purchase Ecoboost Mustang motor brackets and make the frame brackets?) and fab the filler pieces for the firewall and crossmember.
To be continued........
Gary


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scott68B Avatar
scott68B Scott Costanzo
Central, OH, USA   USA
1968 MG MGB "GM 5.3 LS4 V8"
You're getting there!

I'm just curious for those of us who would not modify/change the stock bonnet. If one wanted to lower the steering column/shaft, do you think it would fit? In the pictures it looks close.

Jeepstang Avatar
Jeepstang Gary Alvino
Beverly Hills, FL, USA   USA
Scott,
If you lowered the whole rack and pinion unit along with the firewall steering column housing and steering column itself I would say yes but that presents a whole new bunch of variables,
for me having an MGC style hood seems to be an easier way out. The column would have to be lowered at least an inch if not more.
This swap is very involved, the biggest problem to me is still the turbocharger clearance issue, I'm going to wait till the motor is in it's final position and then see what changes can be made to
the compressor housing and/or frame rail.
Gary

scott68B Avatar
scott68B Scott Costanzo
Central, OH, USA   USA
1968 MG MGB "GM 5.3 LS4 V8"
Gary,
Just FYI, I wasn't suggesting you change your plan at all. I'd keep going in the direction you're comfortable with. I was just wondering if you thought it was possible it could fit. I'm sure a lot of people are watching this conversion and are wondering the same thing. For my LS4 conversion I added a second u-joint to the steering shaft which allowed me to lower the shaft/column to gain room for my exhaust without touching the rack. That's what I was thinking but didn't describe very well.

You're making good progress but you have a long way to go. I'm enjoying watching how you approach it. It's looking like it will be very challenging.

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